Avalon 2005-12 :: Engine Misfire Code 302 When Start Driving
Feb 9, 2012
Changed all the spark plugs and also new coils on the rear bank, drove car and the code 302 returned. Did not have the code while idling, code came up when started driving. Added lucas fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank. Curious about Seafoam and if I should try it and which method to use it by. I know it can be added to oil, fuel, or injected right into the vacuum hose from the brake booster. My wife's car and she is getting crabby.
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What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
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I experienced a misfire code for #4 cylinder on my 2006 Toyota Avalon approx 8,000 miles ago and replaced the three front bank coils with Beck/Arnley coils. I didn't realize they were made in china until they arrived. The car ran fine until today when I got another misfire code for the same cylinder. I still had the two old coils in the garage so I swapped out # 4 and I'm happy to report that solved the problem. My question is should I be concerned that the # 4 cylinder has gone thru two coils in 8,000 miles or chalk it up to cheap chinese crap replacement parts?
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'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
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Got a 2007 XLS back in Feb 2011 with around 65k. First problem happend today with around 76K. Noticed a miss driving down the highway around 65 mph. A few seconds later noticed another miss. The MIL and VCS went on with the first miss. Pulled the codes with my trusty INNOVA 3100 scan tool. Although I got a lot of use from it with my 2000 XLS, I am still learning how to use all the features.
Pulled the following codes. P0354 "ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit". Also got about 20 other codes that I assumed came from the primary P0354. Learned that the 'D" cyl was in the middle (4) next to the radiator. I cleared the codes, and plan to swap the (4) coil with the (6), and see if I get a P0356 which would confirm that the coil is bad. I checked to see if the wires got nibbled, but did not see anything.
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My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
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I replaced an alternator pulley on my 06 Avalon. Everything was put together and it wouldn't start now. I got DTC P0335 "Crankshaft Position Sensor". I checked all the connectors and they were connected, no broken fuses. It didn't have spark either. I remembered that I forgot to disconnect the battery when I removed the alternator and it got zapped a couple of times. Could this fry the ECM or short out circuit?
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
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Have the P1705 engine code (Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault) on 1996 Avalon.
I have removed it and trying to examine connectors and unit for problems.
Seems simpler to replace but cannot see spending the money on a crap shoot. Here is what I know:
Took voltage reading from each of the 2 connectors on the harness each with the key on but car not started. 1 probe to 1 connector and other probe to battery ground. Each connector displayed 0.76V.
Checked resistance across connectors on removed Sensor and it was 600+.
So...are these results determine whether the sensor is bad or the connector harness has an issue? Am I measuring incorrectly? Finally, is there only one of these sensors? I see on later models there are 2. Toyota P/N: 89413-08020
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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My car just turned 85k miles. The day it turned 85k, I recieved a message from dealer saying their records indicate car is due for 85k service. Coincidence? Note: I do not have my service done at the local toyota shop. They have not seen car since last warranty work probably 2+ years ago.
Also at about this same time, the service engine light came on, (oil change needed). Since I only use mobil 1 in the car with genuine Toyota filters, I am not to concerned if the car gets another 500 miles on it while scheduling a service. However, this time, returning from a short trip on Sunday, the VSR (traction control) and the check engine light came on. Only Code is p0015 left bank. Monday, warning lights are gone, and oil change is scheduled for Wednesday.
Is the VSR and the P0015 related.
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
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OK - so is my engine computer toast? The other day on the highway on the way home from work, my check engine light started to flash, and the car on cruise decelerated from 80MPH (ok I was speeding) to 70, and flooring it didn't make is speed up, and that's when i noticed it was shaking a little, so i pull off the highway and it's as if a spark plug was pulled.
So I made it to a parts store to have the code read, then started it back up, all was well. As if nothing ever happened. So I dismissed it as a pocket of water in the fuel or some other oddity.
2 days ago it happened again on the highway. So I pulled into the shoulder, shut off the car, and started it again. Runs fine. Engine computer?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
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When driving in a straight road (even at constant speed) car pulls to right. I have to apply force toward left constantly. Did a wheel alignment, but that didn't fix the issue. Given below is the result sheet.
2009 Avalon Limited
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2006 Avalon Limited: getting a P0015 code. My mechanic says it has to do with cam sensors(?) "cam pos actuator b bank 1: timing over retarded." Dealer told mechanic that they've never seen one of these sensors go and to check the wiring harness for damage; mechanic found none. 153,000 miles.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon XLS that shuts off while driving! No acceleration or power-steering; the car simply stalls. The car only stalls when at low speed such 20mph, stopping for a light, or slowing down to turn.
The car will start right back up or you can put into neutral and restart. I have been dealing with this for a year! I have taken it to my Toyota dealer where I purchased and to no avail. The car throws no codes and no indicator light stays on once the the car is restarted. I have changed electrical wires, replaced battery, disabled remote start (previous owner installed; I purchased car used).
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