Avalon 2005-12 :: Window Shield Cracked From Underneath Hood
Jul 11, 2014
So I have a crack that has grown from underneath my hood all the way to the middle . Can this be a defect ? I have an 2006 avalon.
View 4 RepliesSo I have a crack that has grown from underneath my hood all the way to the middle . Can this be a defect ? I have an 2006 avalon.
View 4 RepliesHeat shield around the rear muffler near tail pipe is a piece of junk. it makes noise because its so flimsy. The wind blows on it going down the road its about as strong as tin foil. If you hear noise from the rear, check both heat shields they may have stones or leaves inside them, they can make weird noises.
View 3 Replies I seem to have cracked the black plastic part located directly under the front bumper. When I was parking it caught rebar and pulled it and it cracked. The pressure clip popped out but I was able to pin it back in. Is this called correct a splash shield? Again it's that black piece of plastic immediately under the regular bumper.
It has caught before in the past and I am considering just removing it completely. If it is indeed the piece it looks like online the part is around 35-40.
I'm halfway tempted to just leave it. If the car were new its a different story but if it works just taking it out without any issues then that's certainly an option too.
I have an 06 Limited. My rear window takes about 15min to defrost in 40 degree weather. And only about 70% of the window is clear. Im not sure if this is the case with all avalons or just mine as i got it about a month ago. My 02 civic si was defrosting in about 5min. Im having trouble thinking that a civic has a better convenience feature than an avalon.
View 3 RepliesThe sunshade will go up when you push button but will not go back down when put in reverse or pushing the button. The control arms move about 2-3 inches and stops.
View 3 RepliesI am sure this is pure coincidence but we had to have a new battery put in my wife's '09 Avalon. Later in the day we noticed that the front window switch for the passenger window on the drivers side, does not work. The one on the passenger door works fine so it's not the motor. How difficult are these to replace? BTW, the window lock switch is NOT on.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesExperienced the problem of a flashing defrost button and the entire HVAC system "frozen"? All the other buttons become useless while the defrost button is flashing on and off. If I then hold either the a/c button or the auto button, the system starts up at 75 degrees with the air running. I can then adjust to where I want it to be.
View 13 RepliesI told them that my car sometimes when I accelerate a knocking or rattling sound comes from underneath the hood. I asked them to check it. I told him it sounded exactly like an older car I had many years ago which was the result of bad gas or too low octane.
With my older car I added higher octane gas (89) and the sound went away. I had a 2011 Prius before and never had this problem and I get gas at the same gas station for years.
So the mechanic test drove my car and said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So I'm stuck with the annoying rattling/knocking noise when I accelerate (which happens about half the time), but now I'm experiencing another problem.
A couple days later I drove to get dinner. One way it is about 7 miles. Almost the whole way the ICE would not turn off. I would be at stop light, wouldn't turn off. I pulse and glided, when I glided the ICE remained on. Take my foot off the gas at slow speeds, ICE still on.
Finally towards the last 1 or 2 miles it started going into EV when i let the foot off the gas. On the way back it ran normal. It's been close to a week now since I brought it in for service and I only had trouble one other time.
Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
My insurance is pay to replace my window shield on my 04 Phaeton V8. I am going to use VW glass. Will I have a problem with the installation because it's not the same as the factory? I am nervous.
My rear tail lights need to be replaced. I am thinking of using the European tail lights to get the Amber rear blinkers and to get the foglight. On OEMPL.us website, it indicated that I will lose the cats-eye side reflector. What is that and where?
I have a major coolant leak in my '99 Dodge Intrepid. I had both top and bottom housing kits replaced over the summer and for the last month I've been having to add coolant about every 3 days to every day now. Today coming home, my car started to steam from underneath the hood and temperature gauge was rising on the hotter side while I was at the stoplight. When I got home I checked the water pump and it was empty. Not in a financial point to have this fixed right away, am wanting a temporary solution for a couple of weeks to get by before I can get it in the shop.
View 8 RepliesI heard that when peeling off the tinted window film can cause damage to the heated lines at the back window shield.... If I bring it to a tint shop and let the people there do it, are the chances high? And if the heated lines did get damaged, how much would it cost to replace them?
View 6 RepliesMy trim piece under the rear window is cracked. What kind of a job is it to replace? I can buy the replacement part from my local dealer and have it painted at a body shop. Is it glued or screwed or both? Iit's a 2003 Mountaineer.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2014 Prius and I just noticed that the window on the driver's side is broken/cracked on the edge. I noticed this last night but my wife drives it mostly so I'm not sure how long it's been like that because my wife never noticed it.
View 3 RepliesCracked rear window from bottom center (on the driver's side just past the Dole light). Dealer says that they would have to sub out the install. That worries me a little, given antennae & other items hooked up on/near rear window.
View 4 RepliesWhat the front wheel well liner shields that are held in by plastic clips are called there are made out of rubber cardboard fiberish material they keep water and debrie from getting in through the wheel wells. Need to know the part number.
View 6 RepliesDidn't touch the downpipe during engine swap of my BEW TDI.
After swap, have code:
17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
P1116 - 000 - Open Circuit
The O2 sensor wire disappears above the heat shield above the exhaust. I am used to (Audi 1.8T, 2.7T, 2.8) seeing the O2 sensors coming up with plug on firewall.
Where is the O2 sensor wire going to.
I normally by the generic Bosch O2 if the SENSOR is bad (cut and splice), but suspect that maybe the problem (open circuit) is further 'upstream'.
Obviously, I am a TDI (and Golf/transverse engine) newbie, so bear with me.
My 2005 Elantra (what a beauty, cobalt blue) shakes, rattles in the front underneath, an obvious suspension problem. Was told 3 different things by 3 different mechanics. Bad shocks/struts, bad universal joint, bad tie rod.
When I go 50mph it rattles the worst, except for when you hit bumps, but mostly the ride is bumpy all the time. At 65mph, it's smooth. Also, the steering squeaks when car first starts up. Replaced belt, keep wd40 handy, but still does it. Steering strong and seems good otherwise.
So, I got my oil changed at the dealer and they said that I have a cracked rear coil spring. They quoted $350. So I took it to my real mechanic and he looked at it, said it's fine for now but I do have inspection next month. He said my struts feel fine. I'm having trouble finding just the spring since the Moog ones are out of stock. I did see Unity quick struts but I don't know if they're any good whatsoever. Whether to just go with springs (and a link to some) or get the complete struts and lend an opinion on good ones. Also, it has 122k miles. A0001 ?
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Neon has had a leaking problem for quite some time. It rains...a lot! After a decent rainfall, when I start the car and the first couple times I accelerate, there is an audible hissing sound, and then the water drips in from underneath the dash on the passenger side. The leak is getting progressively worse, and I'm concerned the interior carpets will get moldy. I recently brought the car in for it's 60K checkup, and all is good. The only thing they could find leaking are the seals on the passenger door. Unfortunately, these seals aren't made anymore, and the cost to purchase them is quite expensive, and may or may not fix the leaking issue.
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