Avalon 2005-12 :: Transmission Pan Removal
Aug 19, 2013
I am getting ready to drop the transmission pan on my 2006 Avalon XL, clean the pan and magnets, replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refil with WS fluid. How to remove the three or so bolts on the transmission pan that are blocked by the subframe connector (or whatever is blocking the bolts)? I plan on buying a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench in order to perform the job. Is there anything else that I need to be aware of when doing this?
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My beloved 07 Avalon is in the process of getting totaled because someone (NOT ME) didn't bother to see if there was any oncoming traffic before turning. But I digress.
I'm 99% I'll be replacing it with another 07 Limited, and I have to finish cleaning it out of all my belongings tomorrow. In short, I'm taking everything out of it I can, including my satellite receiver. Looking at the procedures for installing the 06 and 09 (which I could find easily online) it looks like all I need to do is:
- remove the panel on the right inside of the trunk
- remove the receiver unit by unscrewing the 2 10 mm nuts
- unplug the receiver
Is there anything else I should grab while I'm in there? And, how hard is it to remove the panel in the trunk?
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The rear driver's door on my car won't unlock. Manually, or remotely from any switch or remote. When we hit the door lock button on the remote or driver's door, there is no sound from the rear door. I can't open it manually either lock unlock, etc......
How can i remove the door panel while the door is locked? replacing the actuator assembly is no big deal as I have done it to the passenger front door, but I was able to get the door open to remove the panel. i don't believe I can remove the rear panel without getting the door open...
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We have a 2007 Limited that we love everything about except the way the transmission downshifts to first gear when it seems to me it should stay in second. My inlaws have a 2007 XLS and it doesn't do this. This is our third Avalon and the only one to do this. The dealer we bought from says this is normal but I strongly disagree. Is there a service bulletin on this or what else can be done.
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When backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
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My Avalon tranny slips a bit sometimes when going slow around corners and then accelerating. Also, it seems to downshift itself when going down an incline at 45 or 50 mph. When entering traffic on a freeway ramp and getting into passing gear, it seems to slip quite a bit before catching and taking off. Is all this normal? 55,000 on the car so soon to go out of warranty. BTW, can the dealer check this out with diagnostic equipment as I would bet they couldn't recreate the problem test driving....never fails!
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My 2012 transmission seems to slip a fair amount (much more when it's cold).
When I say slip, I mean, when I give it the gas, it will rev up sometimes, and not move or move very little, while other times it will jerk around like a wild horse. The engine will rev / jump from 2,000 rpm to 4000 back and forth, back and forth. It will do this until it shifts to a higher gear and will stop doing it after 5 - 10 minutes?
On one occasion while going up a steep hill, it starting going backwards while I was giving it the gas. It caught up to itself and started jerking forward until it caught and went forward.
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Have the P1705 engine code (Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault) on 1996 Avalon.
I have removed it and trying to examine connectors and unit for problems.
Seems simpler to replace but cannot see spending the money on a crap shoot. Here is what I know:
Took voltage reading from each of the 2 connectors on the harness each with the key on but car not started. 1 probe to 1 connector and other probe to battery ground. Each connector displayed 0.76V.
Checked resistance across connectors on removed Sensor and it was 600+.
So...are these results determine whether the sensor is bad or the connector harness has an issue? Am I measuring incorrectly? Finally, is there only one of these sensors? I see on later models there are 2. Toyota P/N: 89413-08020
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I have an 08 avalon w/ 281k miles. NEED to replace the transmission speed sensor (P0500 code thrown). Where is it located on the trans and what is the part #? I'm thinking about servicing the trans while I'm there but looks like a lot of "comments" regarding this transmission and the problems with servicing it!?
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I am trying to get to upgrade to 6x9 speakers in the rear, but I can't seem to remove the back cover. It seems like I will need to remove the rear seats.
My car is a 2013 Avalon XLE.
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1999 Ford Explorer XLT 6 4.0l SOHC. Is there any practical way to remove the transmission pan and maybe the valve body without removing the catalytic converter that is right under it?
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2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
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I have a 99 Ford Explorer XLT, V6, 4X4 with the 5R55E automatic transmission. I'm getting ready to remove / replace the transmission. Do you have to lower the back of the engine any for the transmission to clear the torque converter? Any tricks to getting torque converter off the flywheel?
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I have to pull the left front axle shaft on my 95 250 4X4 to replace one of the axle ujoints. Before I get into this project, I'm going to replace all wheel bearings and related seals while I'm at it. Are there any seals that go into the differential that would be accessible after the axle is removed? Any quirks about getting it apart?
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How in the heck do you get the top 2 bolts off of the transmission housing? They seem to be positioned in such a way that they are impossible to remove.
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OK, replacing the radiator in my 07 Mountaineer. Watched the U-tube video and purchased the sprecta model recommended. Instead to messing with the release on the lines I opted to remove the nut from the radiator. Easy enough, everything going well until I find that the new fittings on the Spectra are a different size. Now I have to remove the lines from the old connect. Bought the Lisle 39660 tool for Ford lines. I've been fighting with them most of the afternoon. I cannot get them off, tool slides in all the way, won't budge. How to get them off, I don't give up easy....but, all my knuckles are banged up.
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Removing the filter cup on the external transmission filter?
I tried tonight to get it off and it wouldn't budge!
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Changed battery in my 05 Avalon, how do you reset the sunroof? I'm having to hold down the button to work it!
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I recently bought a 2005 Toyota Avalon Xls with 90k miles on it. The car has been averaging a very disappointing mpg of 11-12 in the city and around 17 on the highway. (much lower than the advertised 22/30 mpg)
At first i thought the mpg gauge could be malfunctioning, so i calculated it myself and ended up with same result: 11 mpg in the city. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, but plan on doing so ASAP. What could be causing this issue.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited, and recently the VSC warning light came on (and is still on). Following some of the advice on accessing codes (like jumping ports on the OBD2 plug) I ended up getting codes that said my #7 cylinder had intake issues. Funny...I don't recall seeing a V8 under my hood.
I am hesitant to take the car to the local Toyota mega-dealership because of the excessive amount wanted to simply read the codes. How I might either access codes for the 2011 or even how to clear the light in order to see if it returns or not.
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I had new tires put on, front end alignment done, had to have tires rebalanced and still major shaking between 40 -60 mph. What it could be??
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