I have an 06 Avalon that I just went through heck to change the plugs on but I did it. It did not clear my check engine light and actually it is blinking now and I still have the slight shudder like the car is losing power. Should I have changed the coils and if I do will this eliminate the problem? I am getting a bunch of misfire error codes and I am trying to eliminate these issues one at a time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Limited and when I start there's a slight hesitation then the power comes on. Also, when I let off the gas and the car slow's to about 20 and below there's a little "reverse surge." The power starting out and decel'ing isn't linear. It's got a little hiccup.
View 1 RepliesI have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
View 7 RepliesOn my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
Kind of stuck on a slight noise from the drive train on our 2007 Avy. It is not engine noise at a certain RPM it is from rolling at speed. I first rotated the tires and there was no difference at all. I thought it sounded like a CV going out so I replaced the left shaft. No luck. I could still hear it as it increases from nothing being stopped to being able to be felt slightly in the steering wheel either traveling straight or turning the worst between 60 and 65 MPH.
I replaced the right CV shaft and noticed slight wear in the support bearing and the support bearing bracket pinch bolt's rubber pad was worn in half. Ok, new CV shaft, new pinch bolt, tightened to specs, no luck. Ok, onto wheel bearings. I could still feel it in the steering wheel and it "sounded" like it was coming from the left side. I even rode as a passenger and moved about trying to get a better idea where it was coming from. I was convinced it was on the left so I pressed out the old bearing and installed new. No luck, same sound at the same speeds.
I replace the right wheel bearing (replacing a front wheel bearing on this car is not a fun job). Slightly better but still there. It's a subtle noise now but at the same speeds. I guess it could be a rear wheel bearing assembly but maybe I am missing something obvious.
I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI am new to the toyota brand and the avalon. I am trying to learn as much as i can ..so my question is i want to do a tune up to my wife's car ... and I am noticing a slight wining noise coming from the car as you accelerate i remember seeing a post on that a little while back but I can't seem to find it ....
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2008 Avalon with about 136,000 miles on it. Lately the hvac fan has been making a slight ticking sound that increases/decreases with the change in fan speed on the ac/heater setting. The other week it just didn't work all together until I tapped it lightly and it started back up. The ticking is starting to get worse.
I'm thinking of replacing this myself as the dealership wants about 400 for this and I can get a replacement fan assembly for about 120 online. Do I just remove the glove box and crawl in the passenger floor board area to do this or am I looking at some dash removal?
My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
My 2005 Nissan Pathfinder with approximately 150,000 miles has been losing power while driving. It's pretty scary. The problem first manifested one week ago when it stalled at a stoplight. It restarted after a few panicky moments of frantic key turning. My husband and his identical twin brother took a look under the hood when I got home and discovered the terminal on the battery was loose and had a screw in it to maintain a closer fit. They remedied that by replacing the screw with aluminum foil. Four days later, I'm driving away from a large big-box store, and it loses power again. I got it restarted and drove around back of the store to the tire center. They tested the battery, and declared it "bad".
The battery and the terminals were replaced. Hooray! I was safe. Or so I thought. The very next day, I drove out to the middle of nowhere to go fishing, and it lost power three times. I was an hour away from home and there was no cell phone service. I left the lake before dark and lost power once more on the way home. To recap, the first time it lost power I was stopped at a light, the second time (at the store) I was at a stop sign, the third, fourth, and fifth times I was driving but slowing down for cars in front of me and had to pull over to restart it, and the last time I was driving down hill and the power came back on before the bottom of the hill. A lot of lights come on in the dashboard when it loses power.
I have a 2005 Ford Focus ZX4. It is a stick. For the past month it has been having trouble starting, the example I will turn the key and it will try to start up, but doesn't. Then it will start but it is weak, sputtering, not wanting to really start, but I give it a little gas and it is fine. The last time it happened, It started after about 8 tries. I was driving a little ways and all of a sudden the radio/cd player quit working flashing a message that said low battery. Then all the lights in the car started to dim out. The headlights started dimming out too.
I did make it home, turned it off and when I tried to start it again all I heard was a click, click, click noise. It is at the shop now. I thought for sure it was the alternator, but they said the alternator is testing fine and once they 'recharged' the battery it is fine too. They drove it around for about a half an hour and they said it was running fine. What the what? They said they did have the problem getting it to start that I did, but only once. Now they aren't sure what the problem is. I don't want to get ripped off! I also don't want to have to fix something that isn't broken. I
I have a 2005 Ford Focus. It has recently begun losing power. The RPMs will race while the speed steadily drops (especially on hills but it's started doing it on lesser inclines). It's been accompanied at times by my car shifting hard and the overdrive off light flashing orange until I pull over and turn it off. When I start it again the light clears. There are no other warning lights. I've taken it to my mechanic twice. He's serviced the transmission, replaced the spark plugs and the fuel filter. He's run the diagnostics and nothing is showing up.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Volkswagen GTI with 80k miles. Just yesterday I went to school and the car drove fine. But when I came back and tried to start my car, it stalled out after a few seconds. Now I thought this was a bad fuel pump until I checked it and found that the fuel pump wasn't receiving any power. I checked the fuse and it was intact. So then I went to check the relay and found that if I unplug the relay and plug it back in, the fuel pump momentarily receives power for about 2 seconds then nothing. Any clue what the interference could be?
View 1 Replies2005 Malibu Maxx, automatic transmission, well maintained mechanically. About a year ago, while driving up a small hill, my display panel starting dinging and all of the lights came on and my steering felt like it was losing power. After I got to the top of the hill, all the displays went off and bells stopped dinging. I've had the codes checked at the local dealership and the only thing found was that one of the battery cells was low. We replaced the battery about 3 months ago and that hasn't stopped the battery light and bell from coming on when driving up any incline. It still feels like I'm losing steering in these instances. I also tend to accelerate when going up a hill, so I don't know why that would be a problem. A recall has been issued for my car, but I'm not sure if it has any bearing on this problem.
View 9 RepliesMy parents have a 2006 Avalon. I put a new battery in it in November of 2014. It gets driving 1-2 times per week. I went to drive it today and I pushed the start button and nothing. No clicking - no nothing. I jump started the battery thinking that was it. There was spark between the cables and the battery and the dash lights came on but it wouldn't start - no clicking either. I disconnected the jump starter and the dash lights went out and nothing. no headlights, no cranking, no clicking no dashboard lights.
View 3 RepliesNeed to locate the fuse for the power seats in an 07 Toyota Avalon. The seat has been stuck in an uncomfortable position for a while. Id like to check the fuse before removing the entire seat to look at the motor. Dealer wants $200 for this info.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Avalon with 111,000 miles on it. I was messing around under the hood and noticed the power steering fluid looked very dark. I bought a turkey baster and a quart of power steering fluid and did maybe 4 exchanges. During this process I finally paid close attention to what it said on the power steering reservoir "Use Dextron II or III ATF fluid." So, I started exchanging the power steering fluid with the ATF.
View 14 RepliesEach individual window operates correctly on each door, but drivers' side controls for other 3 window don't operate as before battery replacement. Is there a process I missed or ?
View 14 Repliestook the car in today for an oil change (06 xls) apparently I got a small leak coming right from the power steering pump.
Apparently that is what he is telling me - could it be from the high pressure return hose? Is it better to get the unit rebuilt or buy a new pump? (I am going to try that lucas power steering fix in the interim), is there a recall or goodwill warranty on this?
2005 camry
The auxiliary power outlets suddenly went dead. I swapped fuse with no luck.
The ign switch provides power to fuse 25
2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.