I ask because my father's 08 Avalon is pulsing during braking at highway speeds but only sometimes. When it does it we can feel it in the steering wheel. I suspected maybe one of the caliper pins was seizing. So I pulled the front wheels. The pads and rotors look great. I removed the pins, cleaned and greased them. On the test drive it pulsed two times for me but was totally smooth on the rest of the drive.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased the rims from another member here on Club Lexus.
Ever since installation, I have been experiencing a vibration at highway speeds and while braking. The wheels are correctly balanced.
My technician has told me that I need to buy a hub ring/spacer (not too sure what that is) but nonetheless, a grommet of such that fits between the backside of the rim and the frontside of the hub. I'm not too sure where to begin from there or what to even look for.
My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD, I notice that when I apply the brakes at 100 KM or higher I hear a 'thumping' noise, the noise is hard to describe, thumping is the best I could come up with, the noise goes away once the vehicle is down to 80 KM, why this is?
View 7 RepliesI replaced my tires yesterday with Bridgestone Turanza ER33 (245/45/19).
After replacing the tires, there is is an extreme vibration in the front end of the car when braking at highway speeds (60+ mph). Braking at sub 50mph speeds is completely normal. No lights, no vibration while driving. What could be the reason?
Also while removing the lug nut locks, the locks key broke apart (the black piece came out of the key). After like 45mins of trying, finally we got the locks out. I threw them away.
I searched online for regular lug nuts, but couldn't find any beside ebay. The local dealer says I need to wait for 3 weeks to get them from Japan! Where can I get a set of 4 regular lug nuts online?
I'm now running on 4 lug nuts on each wheel. Could this cause a problem? Could the vibration be caused by not having a 5th lug nut in place?
I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
I have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
View 9 RepliesSo my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesI know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
I have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
View 7 RepliesGot a 2007 XLS back in Feb 2011 with around 65k. First problem happend today with around 76K. Noticed a miss driving down the highway around 65 mph. A few seconds later noticed another miss. The MIL and VCS went on with the first miss. Pulled the codes with my trusty INNOVA 3100 scan tool. Although I got a lot of use from it with my 2000 XLS, I am still learning how to use all the features.
Pulled the following codes. P0354 "ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit". Also got about 20 other codes that I assumed came from the primary P0354. Learned that the 'D" cyl was in the middle (4) next to the radiator. I cleared the codes, and plan to swap the (4) coil with the (6), and see if I get a P0356 which would confirm that the coil is bad. I checked to see if the wires got nibbled, but did not see anything.
I have found the OE tires are very noisy at lower speeds. They are Michelin Energy. I have Michelin Primacy MXV4 on my 2008 Avalon and they are very quiet. Is there a solution other than replacing them?
View 14 Replies2007 Gen 111, with 148000 miles. Recently I notice the master warning light coming on occasionally when I am braking. I do not have to be braking hard but it seems to show up more often with the engine brake on. Read out on the top of the screen reads "Problem". I am not finding much of anything in the book on this. It did this for a few times a few thousand miles ago and then did not do it for awhile and now it does it again occasionally, but more often. IF it gets bad I'll take it in but otherwise I figure on waiting until the 150K maintenance.
View 4 RepliesIt's a metal on metal rattle sound when I'm going slower speeds and paved residential streets that are a little rough. passenger front is where it seems to be coming from. I can almost know when it's going to do it when I'm coming up on a rough spot on the road. super frustrating. Started noticing if after my mechanic replaced both front springs when my driver side spring broke. Took it back to him and he couldn't hear it and made sure everything was tight. What it could be. Thought maybe stabalizer link but not sure how to tell if it's bad.
View 1 RepliesHaving wind noise in the rear passenger doors when highway driving? I checked the rubber door seals and they appear to be ok. 2013 Avalon.
View 12 RepliesMy sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with over 100k miles. Recently, it has started making a loud whining noise (it reminds me of the sound my old manual transmission sedan would make when I was in second gear but needed to switch into third) when we drive at highway speeds (55 mph or more) for more than 20 minutes or so. The sound continues at lower speed and even when we go into park. It doesn't stop until we turn off the engine, but the next time we drive the sound doesn't start until we've been driving at high speeds for a while. It also intensifies when we make sharp turns. I took it to my mechanic who thought it was simply the fan coming on because our coolant was low, but we refilled that and it hasn't made a difference. Also the temp gauge doesn't show that or car is overheating.
View 8 RepliesI've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
Ever since the day I bought the car, it has had a highway speed pulsing vibration. This vibration manifests once you cross about 90kph, and pulses like a sine wave.
Think of it like this - OOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOO - where big O's are vibration and little o's are absence of vibration.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced several times on various machines over the years in attempts to rid myself of it. The original owner had theorized that the car was so heavy and had sat on its aftermarket rims in one spot for so long that the wheels had bent, which does not appear to be the case. The dealer has experienced the symptoms but cannot find a cause...though I fear they are less knowledgeable about the car than I am. I note that several people on the forum have had vibration issues due to drive shaft bushing failures...but in skimming the relevant threads, none of those people characterized it as a pulsation OR a constant issue that I saw.
I wouldn't say the pulsing was fast...think 4-5 seconds of vibration and then 4-5 seconds of peace.
At low speed braking or before it comes to a full stop. I'm guessing the ABS but would like a 2nd opinion from others. If it's the ABS, is the fix something that can be done DIY?
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