I have a 2005 Limited and when I start there's a slight hesitation then the power comes on. Also, when I let off the gas and the car slow's to about 20 and below there's a little "reverse surge." The power starting out and decel'ing isn't linear. It's got a little hiccup.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 Avalon that I just went through heck to change the plugs on but I did it. It did not clear my check engine light and actually it is blinking now and I still have the slight shudder like the car is losing power. Should I have changed the coils and if I do will this eliminate the problem? I am getting a bunch of misfire error codes and I am trying to eliminate these issues one at a time.
View 1 RepliesWhen backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
Kind of stuck on a slight noise from the drive train on our 2007 Avy. It is not engine noise at a certain RPM it is from rolling at speed. I first rotated the tires and there was no difference at all. I thought it sounded like a CV going out so I replaced the left shaft. No luck. I could still hear it as it increases from nothing being stopped to being able to be felt slightly in the steering wheel either traveling straight or turning the worst between 60 and 65 MPH.
I replaced the right CV shaft and noticed slight wear in the support bearing and the support bearing bracket pinch bolt's rubber pad was worn in half. Ok, new CV shaft, new pinch bolt, tightened to specs, no luck. Ok, onto wheel bearings. I could still feel it in the steering wheel and it "sounded" like it was coming from the left side. I even rode as a passenger and moved about trying to get a better idea where it was coming from. I was convinced it was on the left so I pressed out the old bearing and installed new. No luck, same sound at the same speeds.
I replace the right wheel bearing (replacing a front wheel bearing on this car is not a fun job). Slightly better but still there. It's a subtle noise now but at the same speeds. I guess it could be a rear wheel bearing assembly but maybe I am missing something obvious.
I am new to the toyota brand and the avalon. I am trying to learn as much as i can ..so my question is i want to do a tune up to my wife's car ... and I am noticing a slight wining noise coming from the car as you accelerate i remember seeing a post on that a little while back but I can't seem to find it ....
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2008 Avalon with about 136,000 miles on it. Lately the hvac fan has been making a slight ticking sound that increases/decreases with the change in fan speed on the ac/heater setting. The other week it just didn't work all together until I tapped it lightly and it started back up. The ticking is starting to get worse.
I'm thinking of replacing this myself as the dealership wants about 400 for this and I can get a replacement fan assembly for about 120 online. Do I just remove the glove box and crawl in the passenger floor board area to do this or am I looking at some dash removal?
My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
For no apparent reason, my 2001.5's 1.8T, with less than 67,000 mi on it, suddenly began "hesitating" when power was called for. I first noticed this while the car was climbing steeply one side of the (very tall) Newport Bridge. I could feel the occasional deceleration as I tried to maintain constant vehicle speed (with and without using cruise control), but could see no change in vehicle speed or engine rmp on either the speedometer or tachometer. It felt as if fuel flow to the engine had decreased a bit for a second or two and then returned. This occurs consistently and is most noticeable when accelerating from a dead stop as I'm climbing through the gears (manual transmission). Also, there's no apparent turbo boost. Are these classic symptoms of a failed turbocharger (or something else)?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
View 19 RepliesI'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
View 14 Repliesi bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
I have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
View 14 RepliesI know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
I have a 2005 Avalon with a 2GR-FEV6 engine with approx. 130,000 miles on it that ticks or chatters for about 2 seconds at startup. The sound is coming from the #2 bank directly below & forward of the oil filler cap (forward most bank, right side). The sound is only present after the car has been sitting for 2-3 hours or more and relatively cool right before startup. There is no other drivability issues such as reduced performance, power or gas mileage. It's not throwing a fault code and the symptoms began within 5000 miles of changing to Royal Purple synthetic oil at 110,000 miles. I don't know if that is a coincidence or the reason for the ticking.
My initial thought was a faulty VVT-i oil control solenoid/valve but I pulled it out, put 12 volts to it and it worked fine. My second thought was a possible clogged VVT oil screen or filter. give me the possible symptoms of what a clogged screen would do? Would it cause the VVT-i actuator to lag just long enough to cause this noise since the oil needs to get through the screen to flow through the oil control valve to affect the operation of the VVT-i actuator and if so what is actually making the noise? It sounds like rocker arms slapping but just in that one spot.
I am driving a 2007 Avalon XLS with about 71,000 miles. These lights came on together yesterday. After consulting this forum, I checked the gas cap and found it was indeed loose (or at least had not been engaged with any of the "required" three clicks.) I closed the gas cap tightly and restarted the car. The lights promptly came back on.
I drove to AutoZone where someone pulled the codes: P0306 and P0356. They gave me a printout suggesting the number 6 cylinder was misfiring (P0306) and an ignition coil circuit fault (P0356).
I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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