Avalon 2005-12 :: P0300 Random Misfire - Car On Cruise Decelerated From 80MPH
Jul 17, 2012
OK - so is my engine computer toast? The other day on the highway on the way home from work, my check engine light started to flash, and the car on cruise decelerated from 80MPH (ok I was speeding) to 70, and flooring it didn't make is speed up, and that's when i noticed it was shaking a little, so i pull off the highway and it's as if a spark plug was pulled.
So I made it to a parts store to have the code read, then started it back up, all was well. As if nothing ever happened. So I dismissed it as a pocket of water in the fuel or some other oddity.
2 days ago it happened again on the highway. So I pulled into the shoulder, shut off the car, and started it again. Runs fine. Engine computer?
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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I hookup an OBD2 tester on my Prius 2014 Plugin and saw the OBD2 P0300 - Random Misfire. I did a reset and the error still came on. I also tested my friend Prius 2014 Plugin which is factory stock and had the same error. Wonder if that is by design or not. Going to take my ride into the dealer on Friday for my 25K maintenance and have them look into that error. P0300 can be anything. Hopefully doesn't cause more problems down the run..
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent GLS. I just got it from a used car dealership (local) and it runs perfectly. It had a misfire code when i first got it, for all cylinders plus the p0300. It went away when i started the engine again, and didnt come back til a month later (Now). now it wont go away.
I went to advance auto and had them use their OBD2 reader for a trouble code and i got p0300, p0301, p0303, p0304. No other codes present.
I am not feeling anything bad, and from what I am told, a misfire feels like a hard shift. This is of course after getting the plugs and wires changes as well as an oil change. Standard preventative maintenance.
The mechanic used OEM parts got from local parts shop. i think the OEM plugs are the copper ones. I would have preferred iridium as they arent that much more expensive but I don't want to pay for another plug change.
The only symptoms I can think of, is that according to google, I should get around 380 miles to a full tank (11.9 capacity, 32 mpg city). I am only getting 280 from full tank to gas light.
I have also gone through a lot of oil. I checked the dipstick and it was below the low line, so i bought a quart of high mileage oil (same exact brand and type of oil that i gave to the mechanic to use) and it went to just above the full line. This was at around 1500 miles after oil change.
After visiting multiple sites about misfires, i found a few things that caught my attention. One is a site called auto service professional, which talks about the OCV for the MC accent. A lot of sites also recommend gaping the plugs at .035.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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The check engine light keeps coming on and off on my 2001 Echo with the above code. The car runs fine and the check engine light randomly comes and goes. What would set off the check engine light, but not cause noticeable change in performance?
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New plug on right, lower bank 2 plug on left
Started getting a P0300 and various misfire codes for random cylinders. Truck has 95,000 kilometers so figured I would change the plugs. Several of the plugs on the lower bank on both sides were pretty much toast. Most of the plugs on the top looked good. All of the plugs had a small deposit where the spark hits the ground probe. Picture is typical plug from lower side. changing the plugs should make a big difference in how she runs and eliminate the codes.
Took right on 4 hours same as dealer said it would. I would have got it quicker but it was not a race.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
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2005 4cyl. Vue with 54K... Steady CEL. Runs great. Absolutely no problem accelerating. Don?t hear or feel any misfiring. There is a slight rumbling sound when I first start to drive the car, but to me, the sound doesn't seem come from the engine, but rather underneath the car. It goes away when I continue to drive. Since winter began, I occasionally feel a very slight hesitation during idle?happened once or twice lately.
Again, I only feel justified in mentioning it simply because of the codes that were generated. None of my passengers have made a comment about the idle or the drive. My friend, however, made a remark that occasionally, there is a very very very slight hesitation at the downshift when braking. No crack in gas cap. Great fuel economy. No problems accelerating at all. Never hear or an actual misfire, which I take it, means a problem when accelerating, a jerking, or popping noise.
Took it to a dealer. Codes were 0300, 301, 302, 303, 304?302 generating most often. Dealer recommended new ignition module and plug replacement, but they said it wouldn?t be a guaranteed fix and that it may need EGR replacement (don?t hear knocking though) or be a burnt valve in the cylinder. No suction out tailpipe, no rotten egg smell (signs of burnt valve). What are the chances of burnt valve in a car with 54K anyway?
Also, my maintenance schedule claims that I don?t need new spark plugs until 100K. Is there anything else this could be such as a dirty injector system, fuel filter, fuel pump, or air filter? Again, overall, the car runs GREAT! Should I just wait and see if the misfire becomes more pronounced so when I take it to a mechanic, they won't be looking for a needle in a haystack?
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I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
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I have an '05 Camry XLE with the in-dash touch-screen AM/FM CD Nav system. On random cold days I seem to lose my radio reception. When I turn on the radio I receive a lot of static with break-through talking or music. I've tried to change stations using the touch panel, the steering control as well as the manual tuning dial and I still got static.
I've driven to work ~40 minutes and most of them were filled with static and some break-through talking (not of the station I was tuned into though). The last couple of minutes of my drive I did get a station that said it was 98.3 but I was tuned into 95.5. No matter which station I dialed in I still received the 98.3 station.
It seems like the antenna or something in the radio was stuck or frozen. I drove the entire time with the heat blaring on feet/defrost and rear defroster on thinking it might warm something up but that didn't work.
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We just got the car and I know for fact the CC worked before. Now I don't even get a light when pushing the on/off button on the end of that incredibly weak column arm.
Is there a fuse, or relay? I checked under the hood in the fuse/relay box everything there seems fine, although I don't know if 1 of those relays controls the CC?
2006 Avalon
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The cruise control on my '05 Avalon Limited was working intermittently for a while. I'd hit the button to turn it on and nothing. Then a few miles down the road, I'd hit it again and it would work just fine. Today I tried to turn it on and nothing. Three different trips today and no luck.
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