I just recently purchased a 2006 Avalon Touring. Its been a week now and there has been a loud rattling sound in the rear end of the car. It begins to sound on low RPM, but as soon as i hit high velocity, the loud rattling goes away. Note, sometimes the whole car feels like it would shift to the right; when making a left or right turn. Little scary feels like it's about to flip over.
View 2 RepliesSo I have to replace them since I have this rattling in the rear and my mechanic has diagnosed it to be the rear bushings...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesHave a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
View 6 RepliesMy 05 Avalon Touring rear brake sequel quite loudly when reversing any time of the day, after that no sound throughout the whole day going forward or reverse. It only happens if the car is parked for a while, as in 5 hours or more. I checked out the breaks and the pads still have quite of life left in them, and the rotors are still in great condition. I also took them to sears auto center (only place I can actually trust), they said I don't need any brake services for a while and everything is great.
View 2 RepliesThe fan motor has a loud, low drone to it. I assume it is bad bearing "whir." It seems the fan is directly behind the left side of the glove box.
View 4 RepliesI recently had my oil changed at Toyota dealership at 11,700 miles. Picked it up after 2 days and upon starting heard a very loud rattling sound from engine; as if it were going to drop right out of the car. Shut it off and re-started ok, but very concerned. No repeat of incident until this morning. Same sound at start-up (now at 12,600 miles). My daughter who was inside the house could hear the noise. I used the car the previous day, parked outside in driveway as usual. Now very very concerned.
View 19 RepliesSo im trying to diagnose my girlfriends issue with her car. When she starts it, the car will make a very loud rattling sound, not really grinding, but like metal on metal contact. Sometimes the sound goes away, but when the car is cold it is a guarantee. The battery light is also on, which was not the case when the rattle first started. I first thought (and hoped) it was perhaps the serpentine belt tensioner as I researched that when it fails it can make a loud rattle sound.
Once replaced, the same issues occurred. So I went ahead and put the old one back on since it was not the issue. Note that the old one and new one both shared the same tension applied to the belt and the pulley was still smooth without issues.
Using a stethoscope to try to determine the location of the rattle a bit more precisely I found the noise to be coming more from the alternator. Weird because I recently replaced it within the last year. I went ahead and removed the tension from the belt and played with the alternator for a bit. The clutch felt good when i used a screw driver to hold the fan and tried to move the pulley. One direction moved with ease while the other direction refused to budge, perfectly normal as I researched. The thing that I noticed that I thought was unusual was the fact that the shaft of the alternator had some play (Video below).
The belt has plenty of tension on it so i do not believe that it is slipping on the alternator. I push the belt with the tensioner engaged and the tensioner does not budge.
I decided to measure the voltage coming off the alternator with the car running and it was at 10.95 which im pretty sure is very low for these cars.
When I turn the car on, the sound to the radio will not work. Occasionally the screen will light up but will have no information on it. Sometimes it will turn on just fine and have all the info. Regardless the sound never comes on. All other functions are working fine like the controls for fans and climate control.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Limited that I take frequently to a local car wash; it is a self serve, brushless system, the only one in this small town. The other day, January 20 to be exact, as soon as I exited the car wash, I noticed that the satellite radio would not play, i.e., there was no sound on any of the SAT stations. I noticed on the video display that the title of the piece and composer (it was Symphony Hall, Channel 76) did display, just no sound. I changed channels with the same result; the display showed what was playing, just no sound.
I shut the radio off and turned it back on with the same result. I then changed from SAT to local FM and was receiving sound. I also tried local AM stations and got sound. When I switched back to SAT, there was still no sound. I drove home with the radio still set to SAT with no sound and turned off the car in the driveway; it was less than 5-10 minutes to home. For the heck of it, I started the car again while still in the driveway, and, voila!, the SAT stations were now giving sound.
What occurred, i.e., why there was no sound on the SAT stations. As said, I have used this same car wash for 2 1/2 years with never a problem of having the SAT stations work correctly after exiting the car wash.
i started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
I use the rear sunshade in the summer months, but not all the time - just here and there.
There has never been a child, or anyone in the backseat who has ever messed with the rear shade, it either goes up or down, and has never been messed with.
Today I went to put the shade up, and all I heard was a click from the back area where the shade is. I tired it several times, but all I heard was a little click, and the shade did not go up.
I put the car in reverse (which causes the shade to go down when its up), I put the car in drive, then returned the car to park. I hit the button again, this time the shade came up.
Once the shade was all the way up, I waited a minute and pressed the button again. The shade arms started to fold down, then stopped. The shade will not go back down. I put the car in reverse, and it attempts to bring down the shade, but it wil not go down.
My thinking is, its not the switch (because the signal is getting to the shade mechanism, I can hear a click back there, even if it doesn't go up or down).
I'm thinking it's not the motor, because it "did" go up, it just won't go back down. Although, it could be that the motor is weak, and not enough power to lift, or lower the shade?
I noticed for the last couple weeks, my wife's 05 Limited has developed some kind of buzzing sound around the dash on start up.
In the morning, once I get in and press engine start, there is a buzzing, d...zzz..d....d..zzz.zzz.... noise coming from the dash area. I turned the car off and restart, it went away. It happened once a while. This morning, same noise, I kept on driving, probably after 30 sec, it stopped..
Problem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".
This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.
There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.
Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:
- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)
The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.
Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.
Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.
Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.
Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.
Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....
I have an 05 avalon. There has always been this rattling noise from the rear deck lid (i suppose). The noise is so annoying. I suspect its coming from that deck lid. I also have a buzzing rear electric shade that has refused to go down. Just removed the fuse
View 1 RepliesBushings on the rear strut rod and rear carrier assembly where the rod attaches are gone - any source? From what I can tell these are not sourced individually?
View 4 RepliesI'My car is a Gen 3 Avalon (2005 Touring), but, I figure the 2nd Generation Avalon & recent Camry XLS have similar interior A/C layouts in the interior.
PROBLEM: If I've been traveling on a hot day with A/C on, at some point after 3-4 hours, the air coming out of the REAR outlet starts to blow HOT.
Again, front A/C outlets still blowing nice cold air, but rear outlet blows really hot air. If you shut the A/C off for 1/2 hour, (or shut the car down for 20-30 minutes), when the A/C runs again, everything is fine again. I think it must have something to do with icing (?) and the flaps on the ventilation system.
05' Civic HX 5 speed with 167K. I picked up the car two years ago with 134K on the OD, and the only service records were regular oil changes.
Did: Timing belt; Valve job; Brake job. Both dealer and tire shop have gone over it / safety checked it twice. About 10K miles ago it developed a racket (rotational noise, as if something was coming apart.) above 1,800RPM. "Can hear from a block away" in 1st gear, to a lesser extent in 2nd, etc (no racket revving, only in gear). CV joints, bearings, anything belt driven, has been checked out.
Figured it was the transmission, but it shifts perfectly - and I've drained the oil twice, perfectly clear, and no shavings on the magnet. I know the clutch is original (doesn't slip, don't want to spend $700 if I don't have to). The car, other then the noise, runs as if it's new, and averages 34MPG, so I'd like to keep it!
I have a 2008 with a tapping sound from engine - Sounds kinda like a diesel engine when cold. Not real loud.
It stops once the engine is warmed up. Is that most likely a tappet?
88,000 miles... I bought it two months ago with an extended warranty.
For the past couple of months my 2005 Avalon XLS has developed a clicking or knocking sound when I am turning right. I especially notice it when in reverse and turning right. Not only can you hear hit somewhat, but I can feel it vibrate through the brake pedal. It does do it while driving, but it is more noticeable when in reverse. It is also most noticeable when moving at slow speeds, such as in parking lots. It will also do it if the car is angle parked and the wheel is turning right.
Thus far my mechanic has replaced the struts, the linkage assembly, and done some work on the steering column. I'm tired of paying my mechanic to simply swap parts.
I've got a 2008 Avalon with about 136,000 miles on it. Lately the hvac fan has been making a slight ticking sound that increases/decreases with the change in fan speed on the ac/heater setting. The other week it just didn't work all together until I tapped it lightly and it started back up. The ticking is starting to get worse.
I'm thinking of replacing this myself as the dealership wants about 400 for this and I can get a replacement fan assembly for about 120 online. Do I just remove the glove box and crawl in the passenger floor board area to do this or am I looking at some dash removal?