Avalon 2005-12 :: Initializing Power Windows After Battery Replacement
Sep 6, 2015
Each individual window operates correctly on each door, but drivers' side controls for other 3 window don't operate as before battery replacement. Is there a process I missed or ?
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I disconnected my negative terminal on my 2007 Avalon to remove the radio. I eneded up having an incorrect connector for what I was doing so I reinstalled the factory radio back into the car after having it out all of about 20 minutes. The only connectors I touched were the two attached to the vent casing around the radio and the ones plugged into the radio. After reconnecting the negative cable, I see that my driver window no longer goes down automatically with the long push of the button.
My front passenger window will also not go down with the driver side controls. (it will with the control on its own door). The rear windows work fine with the driver side controls. Also, my sunroof will not auto open or auto close with the long push. It will open, but I have to keep it pushed down until it is done. Is there something I just need to reset since I unhooked the battery? I remember something like this happening in my 4runner in the past.
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I have a 2005 Limited and whenever I roll any of the windows down it does a quick rattle vibration like its trying to pull away from something that's sticking then it continues to roll. It would be 1 thing of it was just 1 window however its all 4 windows. I thought originally thought maybe some of the rubber molding I seen on the windows, (maybe from the days it was hot over the course of years) were the reason and wiped all the black stuff off the windows with goop. Didn't work. I didn't realize how bad it was until I moved my old 2001 Avalon I'm selling and they rolled down so smooth..
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So my battery died today and I had to take it out to to buy another. Once I replaced the battery I noticed that my one touch window up and down doesnt work. Unless I'm not remembering this but I'm pretty sure all four windows were one touch, now only the passenger side works...
Can verify that its suppose to be one touch for all four?
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I have an '06 Toyota Avalon XL and I bought some Silver Star 9006 bulbs at AZ the other night, but when I got back home, pulled into the garage and popped the hood, I was amazed at how much of a PITA it looked to remove the low-beam bulb, especially on the driver's side. I'd hate to take it to the dealer just to get the frickin headlight bulbs changed.
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My wife has a 2012 Avalon Limited. I also see that it comes with a side marker light as well. What is the bulb for the side marker light and how to replace it as well.
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A few days ago I noticed some oil leaking from the left (front) valve cover area and I suspect it's the gasket. Fortunately, I didn't see any leaks from the back cover. It seemed like an easy job to replace the gasket, but as I started to disconnect the wiring, e.g., cam sensor, spark plugs, etc., I can't seem to find a way to remove the black plastic wiring harness 'housing' out of the way.
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How do you replace a/c cabin filter on a 2009 Toyota Avalon Limited?
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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I need to replace the hub assembly on the rear drivers side of my 2005 Avalon touring. I just need to know if the hub is pressed into the bracket that it is bolted to with 4 bolts or not. I would prefer it be the latter but I just want to know what to do with it. I took it all apart but decided to put it back together once a saw the back end of it seemed to be pressed into the bracket. Maybe it's not, I just need to know how to get the original off and get the new one on.
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So I have to replace them since I have this rattling in the rear and my mechanic has diagnosed it to be the rear bushings...
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I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
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So, my '06 XL just popped up a P0051 code, which is the bank 2, sensor 1 (the upstream A/F sensor that you can easily view upon opening the hood in the front exhaust manifold. Easy enough of a replacement on that one, but what about bank 1, sensor 1 (the upstream A/F ratio sensor on the firewall side of the engine)? I changed my oil today and I can access three of the four oxy/A/F sensors, but the upstream rear looks like a bitch! Out of curiosity, I called a local Toyota dealer and they said it would be 300.00 total to replace the hidden sensor on the firewall side. Does this amount seem realistic? I know that there is a TSB for this sensor that states to replace the exhaust manifold/cat assembly. I def. can't afford no 1700.00 crap right now!!
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I have an 08 avalon w/ 281k miles. NEED to replace the transmission speed sensor (P0500 code thrown). Where is it located on the trans and what is the part #? I'm thinking about servicing the trans while I'm there but looks like a lot of "comments" regarding this transmission and the problems with servicing it!?
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I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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I had a burned out left low beam headlight on my 2007 Toyota Avalon XLS yesterday. I have the halogen (2006) type bulbs. Today I purchased two new low beam bulbs and installed both sides new while I was at it. I had disconnected the battery and replaced both bulbs. Now the headlights (both hi and low beam) work perfectly in the auto as well as on manual mode, however my fogs lights now don't work. The fog lights worked last night prior to replacement of the low beam bulbs. So I checked for continuity of the fuse and both fog light bulbs and all were OK.
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I just got a new battery installed from Walmart for my 2007 Avalon. After replacing the battery I am experiencing a wide variety of electrical problems. The car starts fine that's not the problem. Here's a lost of all of the problems:
Navigation display now goes I wired directions...it used to follow the direction the car was going
Passenger window does not work at all
Driver side window works but the auto function does not work
Sun roof auto feature does not work so you have to hold the button the whole time as opposed to just pressing it once
What could have caused this?? I haven't tried cleaning the terminals or anything yet.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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So my check engine light had been on intermittently for the past few weeks. I thought it was for the oil change as it was about that time and ignored it.
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