Avalon 2005-12 :: Ignition Catches For A Second Then Dies Out
Sep 18, 2015
2006 Avalon cranks, turns over briefly, ignition catches for a second then dies out....
CEL is on and shows the following:
PO102 - mass air flow circuit
PO351 - Ignition coil A
PO352 - Ignition coil b
PO353 - Ignition coil c
PO354 - Ignition coil d
PO355 - Ignition coil e
PO356 - Ignition coil f
I checked the front three coil packs, seem to check out, the back three are a BEAR! don't want to rip into those. I know if one or two were bad, I would get a bad idle....
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The Subaru as 260k miles on it and I live in Georgia. When I attempt to start the car, it turns over and sounds like the engine catches and then dies out without getting over 200 rpms or so. Its a manual and I made sure the floor mat isn't impeding the clutchsensor.
The car has been doing this the past three days and finally today after driving around for a few hours and multiple times shutting the engine off with at least two start attempts before it fires, I get home and shut off the car.
I then attempt to restart it about two hours later and after 7 tries, all with the car sounding like the the engine has fired but not yet fully running , then the engine dies. I would push start it but am parked on an uphill slope.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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When ignition is turned on the front defrost light blinks fo 30 second before the climate control screen initializes. Then the temp defaults to 75 degrees instead of the last teperatue / mode selected. Only dash vents blow regardless of mode selection. Dealer report was inoperative servo motor. my inspection, visual was that all three servo motors power and move to default position when battery power is restored. It seems that the command to the center servo motor is not correct.
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I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
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I have a question regarding oil burning by the 2GR-FE V6. My avalon is a 2006 xls/navi, 160 000 km, very well maintained, only synthetic oil changes (AMSOL 5w-30, but switching to 10w-30 now that the oil burning began). All the recalls were done on it already, it was dealer maintained till 65k then I took over when we bought the car. The only other issue I had with it were the 3 consecutive ignition coil failures (by the way, you must replace those with oem toyota parts, I tried saving money on aftermarket and the results were discouraging).
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The 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?
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I own a Vw Phaeton 3.0 TDI 2004. A few days ago , everytime i take the ignition key of the car , the car 'dies' ( headlights , radio , doors , alarm... ) and it stops working for a couple of minutes. When i put the key again , the car starts working and everything works 100% but if i remove the key again , the car dies again. The car runs fine if i ride it a whole day , no problems at all. The following day , the car dies again. What's wrong with it?
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I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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I have a 1961 International Scout 80. I picked it up about a month ago and have been working on it ever since. It has been running a little rough but ok. Carb definitely could use at least a cleaning. Recent history is as follows...Brought home a month ago. replaced clutch hydraulics and rebuilt rear brakes 3 weeks ago. Began rewiring 2 weeks ago including removing dash, choke and throttle cables.
Completed rewiring of engine and lights and most of dash. Some wires are still left open. Since replacing the clutch hydraulics I have been starting it up every few days to drive from a parking space, about 100 ft, to the garage. 2 days ago after finishing working for the night I drove and parked it. The next morning it will not run. It starts and then immediately dies. I know there is a number of things it could be I just don't know the best way to go about diagnosing the issue.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
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Changed battery in my 05 Avalon, how do you reset the sunroof? I'm having to hold down the button to work it!
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I recently bought a 2005 Toyota Avalon Xls with 90k miles on it. The car has been averaging a very disappointing mpg of 11-12 in the city and around 17 on the highway. (much lower than the advertised 22/30 mpg)
At first i thought the mpg gauge could be malfunctioning, so i calculated it myself and ended up with same result: 11 mpg in the city. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, but plan on doing so ASAP. What could be causing this issue.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited, and recently the VSC warning light came on (and is still on). Following some of the advice on accessing codes (like jumping ports on the OBD2 plug) I ended up getting codes that said my #7 cylinder had intake issues. Funny...I don't recall seeing a V8 under my hood.
I am hesitant to take the car to the local Toyota mega-dealership because of the excessive amount wanted to simply read the codes. How I might either access codes for the 2011 or even how to clear the light in order to see if it returns or not.
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I had new tires put on, front end alignment done, had to have tires rebalanced and still major shaking between 40 -60 mph. What it could be??
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During a trip South last summer my A/C would -occasionally, after hours & hours of running- begin to pump out hot air.
Not warm, muggy, outside air, but HOT air. Then, if you shut it off for a few minutes, you can turn it back on & it works normally.
I forgot all about it, since it only happened twice, once late at night, once midday.
Today, a friend, who was on that trip said he came across a something in newspaper about a fix for this, but now can't find it.
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I am getting ready to drop the transmission pan on my 2006 Avalon XL, clean the pan and magnets, replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refil with WS fluid. How to remove the three or so bolts on the transmission pan that are blocked by the subframe connector (or whatever is blocking the bolts)? I plan on buying a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench in order to perform the job. Is there anything else that I need to be aware of when doing this?
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I just changed the ATF fluid and filter on a 2006 Avalon. I added a little over 4 quarts, maybe 4.1 quarts. How to check it if there is the proper ATF amount. There are 4 notches on the transmission dip stick. Do I leave it running or not. How do I check it??!
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo that stopped working on Monday's cold snap (-20 degrees, plus wind chill) and still won't start (currently 1 degree). When I turn the key, the car turns, but never 'catches', and was starting to turn sluggishly. I had (dumbly) assumed that it was the battery, so after it didn't start when it kind of warmed up, I took the battery inside and warmed it up. A room-temperature battery and an attempted jump later, and we still have nothing. The charger says the battery's at 100% and 12.5 volts, but nothing else.
I have no garage, and while the tank is full now it was run pretty low last Thursday/Friday, so I thought that maybe there was a freeze in the gas line... but now the check engine light's on. I don't know if a line freeze would cause the light to go on, but I'm afraid it's calling out a much more serious problem. I'm broke (literally... even spending $100 for a new battery is terrifying) and am hoping that I might have some kind of solution other than towing it to a garage and paying for repairs. We're a one-car family, and can't exactly wait for the weather to warm up.
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my audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
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