Avalon 2005-12 :: Got P0335 Code - Car Won't Start / No Spark Either?
Mar 25, 2014
I replaced an alternator pulley on my 06 Avalon. Everything was put together and it wouldn't start now. I got DTC P0335 "Crankshaft Position Sensor". I checked all the connectors and they were connected, no broken fuses. It didn't have spark either. I remembered that I forgot to disconnect the battery when I removed the alternator and it got zapped a couple of times. Could this fry the ECM or short out circuit?
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Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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Changed all the spark plugs and also new coils on the rear bank, drove car and the code 302 returned. Did not have the code while idling, code came up when started driving. Added lucas fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank. Curious about Seafoam and if I should try it and which method to use it by. I know it can be added to oil, fuel, or injected right into the vacuum hose from the brake booster. My wife's car and she is getting crabby.
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Had the #2 ignition coil go bad (for the second time, mileage is only 84K) and decided to proactively replace all the spark plugs at the same time. #2 coil came out fine and replaced the plug with a toyota irridium. However, the #4 and #6 coils each separated from their respective boots. I was unable to extract either boot. I was able to re-insert the coils without replacing the spark plugs and the engine is running fine (no codes). Before I take on #1 , 3, and 5, I'd like to extract the stuck boots in #4 and 6 and replace the plugs.
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My son in law brought his 01 s10 4.3L over and we put a new water in. When we went to start it up, it would not start. I sprayed a little starting fluid in and it fired off, which is leading me to believe it could be fuel related. On the other hand, I was thinking maybe the crank sensor (P0335), this is the code I got from the scanner. Not sure which way to go.
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My check engine light comes on in the morning (P0335 - crankshaft sensor) and will sometimes go out in the afternoon (after driving for a bit. I replaced the crankshaft sensor (figured what the heck) but didn't cure the code. Puzzles me with the on and off check engine light.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
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I got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. [URL] ... . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
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My wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
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2006 Avalon Limited: getting a P0015 code. My mechanic says it has to do with cam sensors(?) "cam pos actuator b bank 1: timing over retarded." Dealer told mechanic that they've never seen one of these sensors go and to check the wiring harness for damage; mechanic found none. 153,000 miles.
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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I experienced a misfire code for #4 cylinder on my 2006 Toyota Avalon approx 8,000 miles ago and replaced the three front bank coils with Beck/Arnley coils. I didn't realize they were made in china until they arrived. The car ran fine until today when I got another misfire code for the same cylinder. I still had the two old coils in the garage so I swapped out # 4 and I'm happy to report that solved the problem. My question is should I be concerned that the # 4 cylinder has gone thru two coils in 8,000 miles or chalk it up to cheap chinese crap replacement parts?
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Got a 2007 XLS back in Feb 2011 with around 65k. First problem happend today with around 76K. Noticed a miss driving down the highway around 65 mph. A few seconds later noticed another miss. The MIL and VCS went on with the first miss. Pulled the codes with my trusty INNOVA 3100 scan tool. Although I got a lot of use from it with my 2000 XLS, I am still learning how to use all the features.
Pulled the following codes. P0354 "ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit". Also got about 20 other codes that I assumed came from the primary P0354. Learned that the 'D" cyl was in the middle (4) next to the radiator. I cleared the codes, and plan to swap the (4) coil with the (6), and see if I get a P0356 which would confirm that the coil is bad. I checked to see if the wires got nibbled, but did not see anything.
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'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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