Avalon 2005-12 :: Getting Shudder On Braking - Brake Rotors Being Warped?
Feb 2, 2012
I have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
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So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
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It all started around 18,000 miles when I noticed a vibration under highway braking. I convinced myself that everything was fine for the time being and I would have the dealer inspect the brakes at my 20,000 service. Fast forward to the service and all four of my rotors were warped. The dealer turned them all and said I wouldn't have any more problems. The car sits at 28,500 miles now and I'm starting to get the same vibration sensation as I had at 18,000 miles. I'm definitely going to be bringing the car in for it's 30,000 mile service and I will bring up the issue again. What type of warranty is on the brakes as I hope they will replace the rotors this time.
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Recently bought a 2001 Excursion 4x4 but failed to take it on the highway and get it up to speed. It shakes real bad around 65 but I can't tell exactly where the shake comes from. Here is what I've fixed so far. Balanced tires, Alignment, Fixed Steering Linkage, Balanced rear drive shaft, new shocks, new brake pads (slightly warped rotors but shakes w/o braking), lubed everything, replaced all fluids except transmission which was clean, no metal in any fluids, removed front driveshaft. Checked wheel bearing as best as I can.
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So for the past few weeks, i was getting this weird vibration coming from my brake pedal.. When I am about at 40 mph driving and braking or even when I am slowing down with out braking it vibrates.. I checked my wheel bearings.. I don't think that it.. since my steering wheel is not shaking when i brake, i think my rear rotors would be warped..
Also my idle is weird on my car.. I switched my coils and plugs.. it jumps.. really slightly and there is a big one.. when I opened my hood up there is this weird noise like a rattling noise and that is when the idle jumps up and down.. something like this [URL]....
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Brake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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I've put 6k on the truck since the dealership replaced the front rotors and pads but they started to warp a few hundred miles ago. I do have a lift and new 37" tires so I was wondering what rotor / pad combo works best for larger tires and towing. I was looking at EBC kits but I'm sure there are better and cheaper options...
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I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
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I have an 06 Avalon that I just went through heck to change the plugs on but I did it. It did not clear my check engine light and actually it is blinking now and I still have the slight shudder like the car is losing power. Should I have changed the coils and if I do will this eliminate the problem? I am getting a bunch of misfire error codes and I am trying to eliminate these issues one at a time.
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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I know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
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I ask because my father's 08 Avalon is pulsing during braking at highway speeds but only sometimes. When it does it we can feel it in the steering wheel. I suspected maybe one of the caliper pins was seizing. So I pulled the front wheels. The pads and rotors look great. I removed the pins, cleaned and greased them. On the test drive it pulsed two times for me but was totally smooth on the rest of the drive.
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2007 Gen 111, with 148000 miles. Recently I notice the master warning light coming on occasionally when I am braking. I do not have to be braking hard but it seems to show up more often with the engine brake on. Read out on the top of the screen reads "Problem". I am not finding much of anything in the book on this. It did this for a few times a few thousand miles ago and then did not do it for awhile and now it does it again occasionally, but more often. IF it gets bad I'll take it in but otherwise I figure on waiting until the 150K maintenance.
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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I just had an oil change and was told that my brake fluid needed to be replaced because it was contaminated.
I didn't have time to have it done that day so I said I'd have to bring my 2009 Rav4 back in, but then I started thinking about it...
How would my brake fluid get contaminated? No one but the dealer has touched the car, and they just did an oil change a month and a half ago with fluid top offs and it was fine then.
I just want to make sure it's possible for my fluid to get contaminated on it's own before I go paying for them to replace it all, especially since I just had new brakes put on this spring and everything was fine a month and a half ago. I'm suspicious that some rookie tech might have made a mistake and I might end up paying for it, if contamination is something that happens a lot then I'll give them the benefit of doubt, but if it's really rare I'm more inclined to believe the last tech to touch it messed something up.
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While hooking up some tempory trailer lights. I lost all brake lights. No fuses blown one mechanic tells me its the brake light switch. I can see it disco the wire but can't get it out to test, how it comes out. Also my vcs abs and traction lights are on. Local parts store wants 132.00 for it.
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Vibration in steering started in January soon after full brake job, new rotors, etc. on my 05AvyXLS. Pronounced between 60 and 70 mph where steering wheel shakes in my hands. Had tires balanced and rotated 3 or 4 times, alignment, checked tires/treadwear, in 3 diff stores (incl dealer)...same problem. Just bought new set of tires today, thought prob would go away since all pros thought was a tire prob...negative. Same prob, only even more pronounced!
I'm thinking I have a tie rod, wheel bearing, strut/shock, or some kinda suspension prob? I've spent considerable dough with exactly the same prob. And could there have been something related to the brake/rotor job? My pro says no, unless there is vibration when I brake, which there is not! Vibration occurs b/t 60 and 70, whether I'm in the gas or not, and does not happen when braking! What can this be??
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My 05 Avalon Touring rear brake sequel quite loudly when reversing any time of the day, after that no sound throughout the whole day going forward or reverse. It only happens if the car is parked for a while, as in 5 hours or more. I checked out the breaks and the pads still have quite of life left in them, and the rotors are still in great condition. I also took them to sears auto center (only place I can actually trust), they said I don't need any brake services for a while and everything is great.
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My 08 center brake light stopped working. I already bought a new one and my mechanic will install it. He said some of those LED brake light needs to be reprogrammed after installation at the dealership but he is not sure until he get it installed. Does the LED assembly needs to be programmed after installation?
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