Avalon 2005-12 :: Front Windows Will Not Go Down After Disconnecting Battery
Mar 18, 2009
I disconnected my negative terminal on my 2007 Avalon to remove the radio. I eneded up having an incorrect connector for what I was doing so I reinstalled the factory radio back into the car after having it out all of about 20 minutes. The only connectors I touched were the two attached to the vent casing around the radio and the ones plugged into the radio. After reconnecting the negative cable, I see that my driver window no longer goes down automatically with the long push of the button.
My front passenger window will also not go down with the driver side controls. (it will with the control on its own door). The rear windows work fine with the driver side controls. Also, my sunroof will not auto open or auto close with the long push. It will open, but I have to keep it pushed down until it is done. Is there something I just need to reset since I unhooked the battery? I remember something like this happening in my 4runner in the past.
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Each individual window operates correctly on each door, but drivers' side controls for other 3 window don't operate as before battery replacement. Is there a process I missed or ?
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My 2005 prius will not start. We had some body work done to it after a deer ran into me. They did a small amount of welding and had disconnected both batteries. Now the car will not start. It can be put in auxiliary mode but if you try to start it with your foot on the brake, it flashes some lights for a few seconds and then goes dead. Is the hybrid battery too low to start the car? It was pretty low. before the batteries were disconnected. Or did they possibly do something wrong when they disconnected the hybrid battery? Final question would be do they have to do some reprogramming after disconnecting the hybrid battery?
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I have a 2005 Limited and whenever I roll any of the windows down it does a quick rattle vibration like its trying to pull away from something that's sticking then it continues to roll. It would be 1 thing of it was just 1 window however its all 4 windows. I thought originally thought maybe some of the rubber molding I seen on the windows, (maybe from the days it was hot over the course of years) were the reason and wiped all the black stuff off the windows with goop. Didn't work. I didn't realize how bad it was until I moved my old 2001 Avalon I'm selling and they rolled down so smooth..
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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I had a burned out left low beam headlight on my 2007 Toyota Avalon XLS yesterday. I have the halogen (2006) type bulbs. Today I purchased two new low beam bulbs and installed both sides new while I was at it. I had disconnected the battery and replaced both bulbs. Now the headlights (both hi and low beam) work perfectly in the auto as well as on manual mode, however my fogs lights now don't work. The fog lights worked last night prior to replacement of the low beam bulbs. So I checked for continuity of the fuse and both fog light bulbs and all were OK.
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I just got a new battery installed from Walmart for my 2007 Avalon. After replacing the battery I am experiencing a wide variety of electrical problems. The car starts fine that's not the problem. Here's a lost of all of the problems:
Navigation display now goes I wired directions...it used to follow the direction the car was going
Passenger window does not work at all
Driver side window works but the auto function does not work
Sun roof auto feature does not work so you have to hold the button the whole time as opposed to just pressing it once
What could have caused this?? I haven't tried cleaning the terminals or anything yet.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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I have a 1999 vw Passat i have to say i love it but sometimes it pisses me off ok well i have this problem i disconnected my battery because i was trying to reset my cpu and now my damn car wont start .
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I just bought a '12 Camry SE I4 about 6 months ago. It stalls at first startup after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. After the first start and stall it will start normally. A pending code will come up P1604 'Startability Malfunction.' The code doesn't have a real definition other than the engine failed to start. It has a new AGM battery, serpentine belt, and the alternator passed a bench test. Had this problem with the 2.5L I4 or the 3.5L V6? Is this normal?
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I was just wondering... I am in the navy so i'm called to go away quite often sometimes for extended periods.
I have read that the 12V battery will discharge itself if it the car is not being used frequently because it has the memory for everything (radio channels, time, trip meters, etc)
My question is how long is it safe for me to just leave the car parked in my driveway without disconnecting anything and when should i disconnect it?
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I need to replace tail light assembly on 2005 Prius. Some instructions say you should disconnect negative cable on battery before doing this, then do some initialization after reconnecting the battery. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery to change out the tail light assembly? If so, what is the initialization process that must be done?
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I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Yesterday my Check Engine light came on while driving. It's done this before and randomly gone away. My car has been in the shop twice in the past month for routine maintenance.
The light annoys me, so I disconnected the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car wouldn't start. I jumped it. It started, I let it idle, turned it off, and it's dead again. I did the same once more. Still dead.
So, my family "mechanic" says I probably didn't connect the terminals well enough, and that it might just need to be adjusted (in all fairness, I'm playing the stupid girl card here). He said worst case scenario is that I randomly need a new alternator (I doubt this based on the circumstances), and it's possible I might need a new battery (I think I replaced it three years ago, but maybe I didn't).
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Took my battery out to install my boost gauge today... After putting it all back together; when I start the motor, the steering wheel type light and the stabilization control light stay on. Also on the MFD, it says "Fault: Stabilization Control".
As a side note, I can no longer re-set the tire pressure light as well... My dash is lit up like a friggin christmas tree.
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I recently changed my starter and disconnected the battery and tried using a memory saver connected to the cigarette lighter socket with a 9v, but after I got the car back on there's no sound coming from the radio. Comes on no problem, but no sound at all in tuner, bluetooth, or cd mode. This is also an aftermarket radio and I have disconnected the battery plenty of times before and never had this problem.
This is the first time I used a memory saver though, so not sure if that had something to do with it.
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OK, I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and had to replace the radiator. To do so I had to pull out the battery and the mount and everything. Upon putting everything back together, the car runs great and all works well except my stereo will not turn on! It is totally dead, can't get it to power up or anything. So I went through all the checks, fuses are all ok (in the console and on the back of the stereo itself), I unplugged the stereo and plugged it back in, pushed the reset button on the stereo, and completely disconnected and reconnected the battery.... I'm not sure what else to do.
Now I would simply assume the stereo died, but it was working fine earlier in the day before I took the battery out, not even 8 hours prior. Also, about a year and a half ago I had to replace my battery and this same thing happened. The same stereo seemed dead and I went through all the checks i mentioned previously with no luck. I was about to purchase a new stereo a few weeks later and I plugged it in one last time to double check it and the stereo came on and has worked fine up to today! So I know the stereo isn't bad, there is just something I am missing here.
Car stereo won't turn on, its happened before, and randomly started working again, but now I can't get it back on yet after a battery disconnection.
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I foolishly changed out my driver side wheel hub (bearing was grinding) without disconnecting the battery and now have the ABS, AFS and VSC lights on. Disconnecting the battery overnight did not work. Going on the premise that the sensor on the new hub is good, does this need the dealer or someone with Techstream to reset?
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Front door speaker on my 08 Ltd is blown...I cannot find a way to remove the grill. Do I have to pull the door panel to get at it?
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We have a 2007 Avalon XL with 65K miles that we bought 2 years ago from my parents with 40K miles. Last summer at about 50k miles it developed a clunking noise in the left front when you hit a bump. An independent Toyota mechanic diagnosed it as a bad upper front strut mount and he wanted to change the struts along with the mounts. We didn't have the money so we waited.
When I put the snow tires on in the fall, the noise went away. All I did was install a winter set of wheel/tires and I also turned the wheel/tire left-to-right to see if I could find anything loose but I didn't.
The noise came back about a month ago so when I had the snow tires rotated I asked our tire mechanic to check it out. He said he couldn't find anything definite but thought it was the sway bar links. We didn't have him change them because he wasn't sure.
Now the noise is gone again and we have just put new tires on it. I want to have an alignment because the previous set of tires wore more on the inside but am afraid to have it aligned if we need to replace some parts first. What could be causing this intermittent left front clunking noise?
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I bought some long beams at the local lumber yard. So drove home with the rear cargo door open. The ABS light went on brakes were pulsing mildly and making an odd sound. I cant see why the rear cargo door would have any connection with the ABS system so I assume that's a coincidence.I took the van to the local car store they scanned the code. It scanned code 4 indicating the passenger front sensor. I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on. Is there a reset function to clear the code disconnecting the battery didn't work? Or am I looking at another component failure?
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