any info available on draining the coolant in the 2gr-fe motor? one with pics?
I want to drain my coolant and put in some flush agent and ionized water in prep for a water pump change this week.
I could not drain the engine oil completely; only oil in the canister is drained.
When I changed the engine oil, I could not remove the drain plug (small cap in the canister) so I ended up unscrewing the canister first. When I removed the canister, I did not see continuous stream of oil draining. So I placed back the canister and managed to remove the small drain cap. As instructed in the replace oil box, I inserted the plastic piece into the canister but again only oil in the canister got drained; no continuous draining. I repeated this step a few times ( I started engine to fill the canister) and was able to remove some oil but still not all.
The question is; by unscrewing the canister and draining oil in the canister first, am I breaking siphoning effect? Is the reason why I cannot completely drain the oil?
The fan motor has a loud, low drone to it. I assume it is bad bearing "whir." It seems the fan is directly behind the left side of the glove box.
View 4 RepliesMy Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
On our '06 Avalon Limited, my wife had parked the car was parked in the driveway and about 30 min later I walked by and heard that the wiper fluid pump motor was running non-stop. The only way I could get it to shut off was to loosen the fender liner and reach in and un-plug it. I'm thinking relay, but would it be that, the switch, the motor itself, where should I start and how can I tell or diagnose short of replacing them?
View 3 Repliesrear sunshade motor "grinds or chatters" when retracted for approximately 10 seconds. My question is where is a fuse or wire that I can remove/disconnect for temporary fix?
View 2 RepliesMy blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
View 3 Replies2006 with 58000 miles. Never noted overheat or leak on garage floor. Fluid level low in coolant reservoir. Dealer wants to replace water pump.
View 2 RepliesI did a search but found nothing on a coolant leak. My 07 (57K) has developed a leak on the passengers side of the engine. Not sure if its the water pump (not making noise) or the themostat housing as a mechanic who took a very quick look at it suggested. How hard it is to get to the thermostat housing? Anything else have to come off? I don't have a FSM.
View 14 RepliesI am the new owner of a 2014 Avalon Hybrid limited.
I am pretty exited about the new car. I just have questions about the hybrid battery.
I got the car on Saturday and we drove about 40 miles to get home. The car had 12 miles so it's pretty low. The battery was low when we got the car so the engine charged it up a bit. By the time we got home, the hybrid battery never got to fully charge.
Hence my first questions.
What are the perfect conditions to fully charge the battery?
How much time would it take to fully charge it?
Then, my next question.
I was pretty sure that when we parked the car on Saturday night and Sunday, the battery charge level was pretty high. At least half way.
However, when i got to use the car in the morning, the battery level was at 2 bars to my surprise.
Is the battery supposed to deplete like that?
Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
Over a period of several months, my 2008 Tucson began experiencing a series symptoms, which at the time, I didn't realize were related:
The stereo would occasional freeze up. It would still play, but the volume or channels couldn't be adjusted without restarting the vehicle. The washer fluid motor stopped working. This was a continuous failure.The check airbag light came on and stayed on.
One morning, several months after the first symptom appeared, I went outside to find the hazard lights turning on and off randomly. The car would not start. I had the battery tested. It was drained, but not defective. After putting the charged battery in , the car still would not start. I had it towed to the dealer.
Immediately after the car was taken off the tow truck, it started, the check engine light was off and the washer fluid motor was working. The diagnostic computer found no codes. The dealer cleaned and reattached the ground strap, and replaced the airbag pods as a precaution.
The car ran fine for several months, but then the radio and check airbag light problem started to appear again.
I took it to my regular mechanic this time. He could not find anything wrong, but gave me a new battery to try as a troubleshooting measure.
After a few months, the problems are now starting again.
The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 RepliesHaving an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.
We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.
Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:
PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1
Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?
I have an '05 Mercury Sable with not quite 40,000 original mi. on it....recently I thought I needed a new battery, car was not turning over well. Make a long story short, it didn't start well 2 days later with the new battery. Mechanic said the instrument panel is doing something that is draining the battery.....I will be taking it in this coming Monday, and he will be taking, and sending it to be refurbished by a company he said they do a lot of work with. Said it will take about 10 days till I get car back.
View 19 RepliesBack in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
I drive a 1999 Toyota Avalon XLE and my radiator is leaking coolant from what looks like 2-3 spots. I replaced this radiator and the new one is leaking it is pooling very lightly on the top in the ridges of the radiator, and dripping on both sides below. I want to say it is the lines but i got new clamps and I even went as far as to spray silicon on the hard plastic piece the large softlines attach too so that inside under the clamps it would form a seal. the radiator I got is a Silla radiator if that matters
View 6 RepliesMy car has been leaking coolant as soon as you put it in from it looks like the transmission area. Today I filled the car with water and drove it on the interstate to work. The car started getting jerky like it was losing power. So I pulled over and when I did the car shut off. There was excessive smoke under the hood and after removing the oil cap, smoke coming from there also. Tried restarting and it sounds like it just spins. No start. Looked at the timing belt, it's still intact. Put a wrench on the crank pulley and it's turning. What's wrong? Is it a goner?
View 10 RepliesI just purchased a 2006 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.5l for a great deal. It has a huge coolant leak though that needs fixed. It is coming from the top of the motor on the left side by the timing belt. It is really a small flood, when you fill the coolant and turn on the motor it runs across the top of the motor toward the drivers side. There isn't oil in the coolant and it doesn't smoke. I had it dropped off at my mechanic though. Does the motor really need pulled in these to do the head? I heard that there is a overflow channel from the water pump that comes out right about there as well. Could that maybe be it? Any other options if it is the head gasket to reduce the cost any?
View 17 Replies