Avalon 2005-12 :: Check Engine Light On And Code Is P0327 (Knock Sensor)
Jan 23, 2015
So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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So a letter history about the car and this car is a friends car. They owned the car and drove without changing the timing belt when the car hit 109k. So the timing belt snapped and they went out and bought a timing belt and also the timing belt kit with the pulleys and all. They installed it.. didnt turn over or what so ever.
They towed the car to us which we own an auto repair shop. We knew the valves was bent and so we tore off the heads send them off to have them put new valves and etc etc.. We put the car back together for them and now the car runs fine. They pick it up and about a few days later they brought it back due to a check engine. It threw the code:
16711 - Knock sensor 1-G61 Signal too low. (p0327)
now we replaced both knock sensors and when they came and got the car... the check engine light came back one showing the same code. We cleared it out and the next day it came back on showing the same code Again! So now we don't have a clue why that code keeps coming up because we replaced both sensors with a new one. Any clue why the code keeps popping back up?
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I have a 2012 hyundai accent. The check engine light came on. The code read knock sensor. Before I could get it into a shop, it went off. It didn't come back for 11 months. When it did come back, the same code was read. Again, it went off the following day before it could be looked at and hasn't been seen since. The shop says that even though there is a history code, it would be hard to diagnose since it isn't an active code. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance when the code was active. Both times it went on, the car was idling for several minutes with the ac on, and it came on as i accelerated onto a highway immediately afterwards. However, it has idled like that many other times without the light coming on as well.
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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My car just turned 85k miles. The day it turned 85k, I recieved a message from dealer saying their records indicate car is due for 85k service. Coincidence? Note: I do not have my service done at the local toyota shop. They have not seen car since last warranty work probably 2+ years ago.
Also at about this same time, the service engine light came on, (oil change needed). Since I only use mobil 1 in the car with genuine Toyota filters, I am not to concerned if the car gets another 500 miles on it while scheduling a service. However, this time, returning from a short trip on Sunday, the VSR (traction control) and the check engine light came on. Only Code is p0015 left bank. Monday, warning lights are gone, and oil change is scheduled for Wednesday.
Is the VSR and the P0015 related.
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I just purchased a 2006 GS300 AWD w/115k. Started car on lunch hour to find check engine / check VSC lights on. Ran codes to find P0333 Knock Sensor code. Vehicle seem to run perfectly fine, but now that the light is on, it is definity spark knocking under acceleration. This is my first Lexus / Toyota product, so I am unfamiliar with the common problems or fixes. Are knock sensor replacements common?
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My 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
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2002 Subaru Forester I took my car to the Auto Zone to read a check engine code. It came back as being a "knock sensor". Besides that I needed a battery, and when the guy was putting it in he said my engine was moving too much and that I probably needed motor mounts.
I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?
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Wife has a 08 solara 2.4 auto. Check engine light is on for bad knock sensor in bank 1. Now car is not pulling itself, it takes off fine then shifts and falls on its face, I think its missing 2nd and going to 3rd. It is also not shifting into 5th so its staying in 4th and using a lot of gas. I tried manually shifting but it still goes to 3rd and will not go to 5th. I have been told this knock sensor could be causing it all. Cant clear code, I hit clear but nothing happens. We don't have a lot of money to pay the Toyota dealer to fix it and I can do all the work but they wont even show me where the knock sensor is.
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last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
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Have the P1705 engine code (Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault) on 1996 Avalon.
I have removed it and trying to examine connectors and unit for problems.
Seems simpler to replace but cannot see spending the money on a crap shoot. Here is what I know:
Took voltage reading from each of the 2 connectors on the harness each with the key on but car not started. 1 probe to 1 connector and other probe to battery ground. Each connector displayed 0.76V.
Checked resistance across connectors on removed Sensor and it was 600+.
So...are these results determine whether the sensor is bad or the connector harness has an issue? Am I measuring incorrectly? Finally, is there only one of these sensors? I see on later models there are 2. Toyota P/N: 89413-08020
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Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
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I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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MY 06 Avalon has acquired a check engine light that goes on and off sporadically..mechanic states it was a misfire cleared the codes but now it has come back and then turned itself off only to come back again. Car 80k miles..needs tuneup ?
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Do the check engine lights when you put the switch in the start position or as I know if working properly. I have a 2008 toyota avalon XL,
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Took my 07 Avalon Touring to the dealer because of a check engine light. They replaced coil and plugs, but also told me unbalanced wheels had caused the computer to throw a code. As Click and Clack would say, this sounds bogus. I'm feeling no vibration and the wheels were balanced about 3 months ago.
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My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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I try to do my own maintenance. I have a 2006 Avalon Limited. This has happened twice recently, using cruise it has kicked off and gives me the VSC light and the check engine light and cruise error, when running codes I get the following P0138 & P2195 both have to do with the O2 sensor on bank 1, and P1578 & P1201 which are brake malfunction. I have been searching the Internet for any information on what could be causing my issue with no luck. I have a 3000 mile trip and need to figure this out soon.
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