Avalon 2005-12 :: Check Engine And VSC Lights Came On - Ignition Coils Replacement
Dec 7, 2012
I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
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I am driving a 2007 Avalon XLS with about 71,000 miles. These lights came on together yesterday. After consulting this forum, I checked the gas cap and found it was indeed loose (or at least had not been engaged with any of the "required" three clicks.) I closed the gas cap tightly and restarted the car. The lights promptly came back on.
I drove to AutoZone where someone pulled the codes: P0306 and P0356. They gave me a printout suggesting the number 6 cylinder was misfiring (P0306) and an ignition coil circuit fault (P0356).
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Must have pushed the wrong button in the dark. Anyway, the TRAC button and the check engine light both lit when I started the car. (push button start). How can I get it off??
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I have a 2006 Avalon and for the last 2 weeks the VSC and Check engine lights have been coming on and stay on for 2 days and goes off.
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I own a 06 limited and my Check engine along with VSC lights came on. Autozone read the code and it is a P2195 error. According to AZ the O2 sensor cost $500, according to websites the fix is O2 sensor and manifold ~$1800. I don't have that much money. The dealer told me that it was ok to drive with warning lights on. I checked the MAF sensor and it is clean. The O2 sensor or A/F sensor Stuck Lean - bank 1 sensor 1. If I want to do the work myself, any diagrams, picts, instructions etc......
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Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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MY 06 Avalon has acquired a check engine light that goes on and off sporadically..mechanic states it was a misfire cleared the codes but now it has come back and then turned itself off only to come back again. Car 80k miles..needs tuneup ?
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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Do the check engine lights when you put the switch in the start position or as I know if working properly. I have a 2008 toyota avalon XL,
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Took my 07 Avalon Touring to the dealer because of a check engine light. They replaced coil and plugs, but also told me unbalanced wheels had caused the computer to throw a code. As Click and Clack would say, this sounds bogus. I'm feeling no vibration and the wheels were balanced about 3 months ago.
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My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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I try to do my own maintenance. I have a 2006 Avalon Limited. This has happened twice recently, using cruise it has kicked off and gives me the VSC light and the check engine light and cruise error, when running codes I get the following P0138 & P2195 both have to do with the O2 sensor on bank 1, and P1578 & P1201 which are brake malfunction. I have been searching the Internet for any information on what could be causing my issue with no luck. I have a 3000 mile trip and need to figure this out soon.
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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I have an '05 I bought 3 years ago and any time it sits outside and gets rained on, the VSC/check engine light comes on when I start it and it doesn't go away for 2-3 days at a time. The frustrating part is that any time this happens, I get the E3 error with the cruise control even though there's not a drop of water to be found anywhere.
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Weekend trip in the 09 Avalon and after stopping for fuel i end up with a check engine light and two codes P0014 and P0015, camshaft over advance bank 1. Cleared the codes but came back hours later. What am i looking at to correct this problem?
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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