Avalon 2005-12 :: Average Mpg Keeps Dropping When Stop At A Light Or Car Idling
May 6, 2015
I have a 2005 Avalon LTD and the gas mileage dropped from 24+ to 18 seemingly overnight. I don't have a check engine light on. The car seems to be running fine. The only thing I notice is that when sitting at a light or just with the car idling, the avg mpg just keeps dropping. I just had filled the tank and it reset to 12.1 mpg and I sat there for a couple minutes with it idling, and the avg mpg dropped to 9.1. BTW, the car has 132000 miles. Spark plugs changed at 100K, PVC at 105K.
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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My 05 has Glowshift gauges on the window pillar. All are analog except the digital fuel pressure gauge. It almost always reads 102 and that can't be right. Sometimes when idling at a stop light it might go down to 95 for a few seconds. Maybe wire grounding out from sensor?
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I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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Just got the car and every time I stop and restart the car the clock reset to 1:00. everything else works fine and nothing else resets. no fuses are blown, etc. Radio presets and memory seats keep their settings. called the dealer and they are supposed to be getting back to me.
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My 2006 Avalon Limited idles rough at times (at stop lights). Should I get a fuel system cleaning done? It has 52k miles and has probably not been done in the past. Would a fuel system cleaning work with rough idle? Can I do this myself or do I need to take it to the dealer?
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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The other day I noticed that my '07 avalon was making some new noises. It's most noticeable once I get up about 15-20 mph and then very little touch the accelerator. It's sort of rotary noise that seems to be tied to the engine speed. Kind of like something rubbing that wasn't before. I also notice it when coming to a stop, foot of the accelerator, just braking the noise slows down. It seems even a bit louder when stopping.
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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My Yukon, with 140,000 miles, will sometimes start/fire up right away but other times it sluggish to start and then when it finally does it will shake for a while. Also, sometimes when idling at a stop light it will shake. It will also shake sometimes when I get around 60-70 mph. The rpm's are fine.
I replaced the fuel pump last spring and had a tuneup last summer. What could be causing this? I've had my mechanic look at it and he's hooked up his handheld diagnostic tool to it and it never shows any codes.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited, and recently the VSC warning light came on (and is still on). Following some of the advice on accessing codes (like jumping ports on the OBD2 plug) I ended up getting codes that said my #7 cylinder had intake issues. Funny...I don't recall seeing a V8 under my hood.
I am hesitant to take the car to the local Toyota mega-dealership because of the excessive amount wanted to simply read the codes. How I might either access codes for the 2011 or even how to clear the light in order to see if it returns or not.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
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So every once in a while, probably a dozen times, over the winter I am idling at a stop light and smell a bad burning smell. It doesn't matter if I have my heat on, or if I switch the temp all the way to cold. It smells like burning rubber or plastic. So far there doesn't seem to be a common factor involved. Doesn't matter the temp outside or how long I have been driving the car. Haven't noticed a loss in fluids, no puddles under my car. And it's not a sweet antifreeze smell.
2004 Ford Escape
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My Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
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My '11 Limited has a trunk light that isn't working. I figured it was a bad bulb so replaced it (the old bulb's filament wasn't broken tho). Nope, still didn't work. So I took out the entire little bulb holder to check for bad connections, corrosion, etc. .....the connections are fine. Next I got my volt/ohm meter and checked for DC voltage at the plug coming into the unit.....I got 12.83 volts. So I hooked a jumper directly from the plug to a bulb's contacts and still no light.
What am I missing here ? How can I read voltage at the meter and not have the juice to light a tiny bulb?
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On my 09 avalon I always fill up the tank with premium gas. Got 225 miles out of it and the gas light came on. Went to fill up again and it only took 15 gallons. I googled it and our tanks are 18.5. Is my light coming on to early? Is there still 3 gallons left in the car when the light comes on?
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I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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Bought a 2006 avalon xls that has 49k miles on it. Yesterday the light came on. What this means. I had to pay toyota $90 to diagnose check engine light a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately it was just a bad gas cap seal.
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My wife has a 2012 Avalon Limited. I also see that it comes with a side marker light as well. What is the bulb for the side marker light and how to replace it as well.
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