Avalon 2005-12 :: 2011 - Tire Rotation / Car Was Aligned
Jan 29, 2012
My dealer says F-B and B-F only. Declined to put spare into rotation... 4 tires were rotated @ 5, 10, 15K. Don't see/feel any cupping yet, but would expect that next. Car was aligned around 5K, as was/is not 100% stable in direction, with slight wander. [no accidents/curb hits/pothole damage, etc.] Run 33-34 psi F&R, as rec by dealer [vs specs @ 32 psi]. Only 1-2 total people on board, mostly. At just under 18K on factory Michelins, getting some tire 'yammer' around 45 mph.Do you cross rotate?
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Cross X tire rotation pattern on Avalon as opposed to just rotating from front to rear?
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Had my tires rotated yesterday and now the car is pulling noticeably left. On a flat road, if I let go of the wheel I change lanes in about 3 to 4 seconds depending on speed. Also, the faster I am going, the worse the pull feels. Before the rotation, the car would pull very slightly to the right sometimes but only enough for me to wonder if it was pulling or if it was my imagination.
One other detail, the tire that is now on the left front is newer than the others due to a pothole eating the last one. It is the same hankook tire in type and size. Just with less miles on it. It was previously on the front right. I've seen the threads on the pulling issue and the 18 step TSB and all of that but nothing about rotation or the pulling following a specific wheel or tire. Could the rolling resistance of a newer tire really cause that much of a pull?
My issue is I am getting ready to leave for a road trip and can't get in for an alignment or for someone to go through the whole TSB. I think I might switch the 2 front wheels.
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Only had 2 cars with TPMS and the other one couldn't have the wheels rotated. So if I rotate the tires/wheels do I need to get the TPMS reprogrammed since the fronts will be on the back and vice versa?
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Ok...I've been reading about Michelin tires on the forum and unfortunately, I just bought my 07' Limited with a brand new set of Kelly "Charger" Tires. So, I took a trip last week and noticed at 55-73 mph, the car rides nice, smooth, and quiet. However, when I hit 74 or 75 mph, I began hearing a road noise that sounds as if the tires have hit a certain oscillatory air resonance at this speed.
I'm wondering if it's due to the tire tread pattern or something else. Strangest damn thing. When I accelerate faster, the noise seems to diminish a little but still isn't smooth and quiet. Maybe I'm just drowning it out some while it accelerates. When I bring it back down below 74 mph, it goes nice and quiet again.
I have the tire pressures set at 40 psi (trying to get a little extra fuel mileage). However, I'm wondering if this might cause the problem...I believe the pressure should be between 35-38 psi. My TPMS light hasn't lit up, so I guess it doesn't see fault with an extra 2 psi. Anyway, the tires appear to be a quality tire. I looked they show the following ratings.
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I'm on the lookout for a set of OEM rims so that I can get snow tires for the winter and just realized that I'll also need a set of Tire Pressure Monitors. What is the part number?
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I had my tires rotated. About a month after that my tire pressure warning light came on. All tires were perfect expect the rear drivers side needed about 6 pounds of air pressure added. Now all tires are at 32PSI per owners manual recommendation.
The problem is that the tire pressure warning light stays on permanently. I read the owners manual and pressed the button under the steering wheel and the tire pressure light blinked 3 times like it's supposed to during a reset. However......the tire pressure warning light still stays on permanently. It won't go out. I followed the instructions in the manual. Maybe I did something wrong but I don't think so.
I have a 2011 Avalon Limited with 20.000 miles on it. Push button ignition.
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My friend has a 2007 Avalon with 150,000 miles. He ran over a chunk of rubber tire that was in the road and now has a load noise at 40 to 60 mph. He believes that a sound deading material is missing from under the car. He took it to the dealer and they could not determine the cause. He also took it to a local repair shop and they could not fix it. It appears that this material is used in the wheel wells also.
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My tire pressure warning symbol just displayed - steady - so I aired up the tires -winter here -. The Quick Reference guide says /shows a reset switch located to the left of steering wheel . I can't seem to locate this. I have an '11 LTD but without navigation. Did they omit this switch on some models, or do I need a bigger flashlight ?
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I have a 2011 Limited that I take frequently to a local car wash; it is a self serve, brushless system, the only one in this small town. The other day, January 20 to be exact, as soon as I exited the car wash, I noticed that the satellite radio would not play, i.e., there was no sound on any of the SAT stations. I noticed on the video display that the title of the piece and composer (it was Symphony Hall, Channel 76) did display, just no sound. I changed channels with the same result; the display showed what was playing, just no sound.
I shut the radio off and turned it back on with the same result. I then changed from SAT to local FM and was receiving sound. I also tried local AM stations and got sound. When I switched back to SAT, there was still no sound. I drove home with the radio still set to SAT with no sound and turned off the car in the driveway; it was less than 5-10 minutes to home. For the heck of it, I started the car again while still in the driveway, and, voila!, the SAT stations were now giving sound.
What occurred, i.e., why there was no sound on the SAT stations. As said, I have used this same car wash for 2 1/2 years with never a problem of having the SAT stations work correctly after exiting the car wash.
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I could not drain the engine oil completely; only oil in the canister is drained.
When I changed the engine oil, I could not remove the drain plug (small cap in the canister) so I ended up unscrewing the canister first. When I removed the canister, I did not see continuous stream of oil draining. So I placed back the canister and managed to remove the small drain cap. As instructed in the replace oil box, I inserted the plastic piece into the canister but again only oil in the canister got drained; no continuous draining. I repeated this step a few times ( I started engine to fill the canister) and was able to remove some oil but still not all.
The question is; by unscrewing the canister and draining oil in the canister first, am I breaking siphoning effect? Is the reason why I cannot completely drain the oil?
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I found this thread in the Corolla forums and was curious as to what pattern people use here since I will be rotating the tires on my '07 Camry myself for the first time. The manual says to use Pattern D for non-directional tires, but my Civic manual and a few other cars I have looked up suggest using Pattern C, which make more sense to me as it would seem to provide more even wear on both sides of the tire by crossing them to opposite sides of the car.
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Second time I've gotten my tires rotated. 20k miles. It sounds like I drive a lifted 4x4 for almost 2k miles now. Service rep says normal, cause of camber, GTI tires, etc. Goes in Wed for 20k service.
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Understandably, I've been told I need to rotate my tires more frequently. I've also been told that when I have the tires rotated, they should be balanced as well. I have the skills (minimal) to removed a tire from one location and put it on another location, but I don't have the skills or equipment to balance them. Should I, in fact, balance them as well, and if so, how frequently should the rotation/balancing occur? This is a 2006 Honda CR-V with 75k miles on it.
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Installed 20x8.5 inch wheels/tires on 2011 Avalon Limited...tires are 245/35/20. I'm getting some rubbing when the car is loaded down and hitting bumps or too quick off the line. Car is white and I'm getting a little white paint on the outer wall of the back tires. Will rolling the quarter panels prevent rubbing or is this a too aggressive fitment?
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I have a brand new 2011 Avalon. It has 5000 miles on it. The car is a dream to drive. Best car I have ever owned. I love it. Except for one HUGE problem.
The windshield wipers chatter.
I told the dealer and they put on a pair of new blades. It didn't fix the problem. They still chatter.
I went to another dealer during a rainstorm because the chattering was driving me insane and without an appointment they threw on another pair of blades. I'm talking real Avalon blades. Not some third party brand. Guess what. They still chattered.
I am at a loss at what to do. When you look closely at the blades I notice that the ends near the bottom portion of the windshield don't make contact with the windshield. That can't be right.
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I replaced my wipers once before but it must not have been a perfect fit because there was a lot of chatter. I had to go the dealer and have them install Toyota wipers but they were expensive. Have any of of you found wipers that work perfectly, if so what was the name and brand or model?
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I had my 20,000 mile tire rotation and 2nd oil change done at 23,500 miles. Service tech suggested I still return around 25,000 for my last free rotation.
Does it make sense to do that, since I'd only have 1500 miles on the current rotation?
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While I was having my tires rotated yesterday, the last floorjack was being lowered just in front of my driver's side rear tire when there was a noticeable hissing sound. The outer lip of the plate on the floorjack caught on the line going to my front suspension and the front of the car went down.
I'm borrowing a picture that Michael posted earlier and hopefully I've labelled the correct items in the picture. His previous red arrows were for pointing out the oval holes in the bottom of the car that can get damaged in towing.
The owner of the shop that did it drove my car slowly to the VW dealer that was within a couple miles. I've allowed them to do a repair to the line that meets VW specs. Some type of male/female brass connection that will save several hundred dollars on the repair that the tire shop will be paying for.
I'm surprised that VW placed the air lines so close to one of the lift points.
Is it possible to cause damage to the air shocks when they are lowered all the way down like that? I'm hoping not. I figured it probably was better to drive the car to the dealership instead of risking any damage that could have been caused by putting it on a flatbed.
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I am a new member here with 2011 Avalon Limited just bought last weekend. I was exploring all the features and options. Few questions are coming out from my exploration. What I have noticed that there is no Trunk Open indicator light on the dash nor any message on the NAV display. I left the trunk open and drove couple minutes, no light, no beep, no alarm... The instrument cluster has only door open indicator light that tells us one of the doors is open but which one, no indication... I believe, 2005-2010 Avalon has this indicator message with specific door shows on the center display screen. I tried to find this out on the manual real quick but couldn't find any. Am I missing anything somewhere? Or is there any trick to turn on any indicator light or alarm beep or message somewhere for trunk open? Or 2011 Avalon doesn't have this feature at all?
Next is, all the buttons are non-illuminated, such as Trunk Release, Gas cap release, Rear sunshade, Moonroof switch, Book light button, Dome light button, even the memory seat buttons are not illuminated. Are all the previous Avalon models have these buttons non-illuminated?
On the other hand, My 2013 Accord EXL and 2008 Odyssey have all these buttons illuminated and instrument cluster indicates which door is open including trunk. These two issues are the disappointment so far, Avalon is a higher class vehicle than Accord and expensive too, at least I expected these features as standard on Avalon. Other than these its a great driving car.
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I have a 2011 Avalon and only 7000 miles on it. For the past month or two I've been getting a weird smell from the AC. Never got that smell when I first got the car. Smelt perfectly fine like a brand new car until now. I don't know how to describe the smell, but I know it isn't the smell of a dead animal. When I first start my car after it has been sitting for awhile, lets say over night, the smell is evident for the first 10 seconds. After those ten seconds the smell goes away and I don't really smell much of it. The smell is there but you can barely smell it. However, whenever I turn the "AC" button off but leave the fan running, the smell becomes very evident and it doesn't go away.
I've tried checking the filter. The filter was perfectly fine. It was clean with a little area of black on it which i believe is normal. Also the smell that I smelt wasn't in the filter. Another question is, is the filter facing upward suppose to be collecting the pollen and junk? Or it is suppose to be collected from the bottom? I might have replaced the filter the wrong way.
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