Avalon 2005-12 :: 2011 - Front End Creaking Over Bumps / Dips In Driveways / Roadway
Mar 27, 2012
My 2011 base has a front end creak over bumps/dips in driveways/roadway. Audible at low speed. Started around 3K [advised dealer and got it into computer] now at 18K more frequent and pronounced. Annoying and slightly embarrassing - had Hyundai-owning friends in car yesterday - their Santa Fe is very quiet.
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I purchased a new 2012 Avalon at the end of 2012. It currently has 2500 miles on it. I been noticing that I seem to have inadequate forward illumination of roadway at night with the low beams on. There have been times when I won't see people in the a cross walk until I am right on top of them. It's making me very nervous about driving at night in the city. Is this a common problem with Avalons? Was wondering if there is an adjust that I can make or should I bring it to the dealer to do it?
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it's strange, it feels like something is loose, not the steering wheel but the column that the steering wheel attaches to, this only happens when going over dips or bumps, any time the wheels take impact.
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Noise is coming from the front suspension. You can hear it at :11 after i come to a stop, then drive over a dip. The dealer has told me it is the front struts. It's the 2nd time I've taken it to the dealership, the first time they could not replicate the noise so i am surprised the technician was able to hear it this time, and I don't want to spend money on strut replacement if it isn't the cause.
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I'm getting a squeaking/creaking noise from the front when turning and over some bumps. It has ST coilovers already and read a post from the previous owner here and he said the noise started after the install and he was told ot was the upper mounts??? Does this sound correct?? Also i noticed it when parked and just turning the wheel back and forth, popped the hood and had my son turn it and it did sound like it was coming from the upper strut area....
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Just recently I've been hearing a slight creeking sound coming from the front end when going over bumps. I don't have a lot of suspension knowledge so I'm not sure where to start looking and wanted to see if others had the problem, and what the outcome was? The car is at 60k miles.
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The front end of my 2013 Elantra GLS "Creaks" when I go over large bumps especially when the tires/springs extend - like when you go over a smooth rut in the road or if I make a sharp turn and the weight of the car shits to one side. Of course it doesn't happen all the time so that's the perfect excuse for the dealer to look the other way. I haven't taken it there yet because I know if I don't point them in the right direction it'll take 4 times as long to remedy the problem.
Anyway, temperature doesn't seem to affect as much but in the mornings when it's colder it's slightly more noticeable. I've tried to record the sound but that's easier said then done. I've push down on the front end to see if I could reproduce the sound but it doesn't happen when the shocks are compressed but rather when the spring extends. The creaking sounds like when you walk on a old wooden floor or opening an old door kinda thing. What it could be?
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So I had my rear bumper removed and repainted..since then it has developed a rattle on certain lights bumps on the road.
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So finally my wife traded in her vw for a Toyota. We found a 06 Avalon limited with only 68k. It's loaded to the gills with options and we have found only one thing that doesn't work, the back glass power sliding shade. Possibly coincidentally possibly not we have an annoying rattle from the rear when we go over bumps. Is the rattle coming from the non working shade? How do I fix it?
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I've noticed a creaking sound coming from the left front wheel when I go over a couple of particularly large speed bumps. I have had a lot of problems with the suspension in this car, and have replaced the front struts, the front right control arm, and the sway bar links and bushings. My best guess is that this noise is coming from the front left control arm, as it has not been replaced, although my current mechanic says that the front left control arm is fine. Also, it has been under 10 F here the past few days, so this could also just be a result of the cold weather.
Video of the noise: [URL] ....
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I have an 09 ls 460l with stock suspension and 22's. My rear suspension will hit the top of the fender over dips and bumps with rear passengers in the car. I have 285/25/22 on the rear.
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My question today has to deal with my squeaking car. Only mods I have done to my suspension would be Lowered on Progress springs and added there rear sway bar. After about a year my car started to squeak when going over speed bumps or certain dips BUT ONLY THE REAR. I have tracked the problem down to my rear sway bar. What is the fix for this? Ive read in other forums (mainly civic teggys etc) that the bushing might be worn? What is my recommended next step?
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When going over large bumps and dips I'm hearing a very high pitched squeaking noise coming from the rear end. Over small bumps I hear nothing, it's only the large bumps where I hear the squeak.
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When I drive over bumps or dips my car makes this clunking noise in the front passenger side. I just had the front brake assembly replaced as well as the engine mounts but the noise is still occurring. what could this be and would it affect my new brakes in any way?
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I've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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I have a 2011 Limited that I take frequently to a local car wash; it is a self serve, brushless system, the only one in this small town. The other day, January 20 to be exact, as soon as I exited the car wash, I noticed that the satellite radio would not play, i.e., there was no sound on any of the SAT stations. I noticed on the video display that the title of the piece and composer (it was Symphony Hall, Channel 76) did display, just no sound. I changed channels with the same result; the display showed what was playing, just no sound.
I shut the radio off and turned it back on with the same result. I then changed from SAT to local FM and was receiving sound. I also tried local AM stations and got sound. When I switched back to SAT, there was still no sound. I drove home with the radio still set to SAT with no sound and turned off the car in the driveway; it was less than 5-10 minutes to home. For the heck of it, I started the car again while still in the driveway, and, voila!, the SAT stations were now giving sound.
What occurred, i.e., why there was no sound on the SAT stations. As said, I have used this same car wash for 2 1/2 years with never a problem of having the SAT stations work correctly after exiting the car wash.
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I could not drain the engine oil completely; only oil in the canister is drained.
When I changed the engine oil, I could not remove the drain plug (small cap in the canister) so I ended up unscrewing the canister first. When I removed the canister, I did not see continuous stream of oil draining. So I placed back the canister and managed to remove the small drain cap. As instructed in the replace oil box, I inserted the plastic piece into the canister but again only oil in the canister got drained; no continuous draining. I repeated this step a few times ( I started engine to fill the canister) and was able to remove some oil but still not all.
The question is; by unscrewing the canister and draining oil in the canister first, am I breaking siphoning effect? Is the reason why I cannot completely drain the oil?
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My dealer says F-B and B-F only. Declined to put spare into rotation... 4 tires were rotated @ 5, 10, 15K. Don't see/feel any cupping yet, but would expect that next. Car was aligned around 5K, as was/is not 100% stable in direction, with slight wander. [no accidents/curb hits/pothole damage, etc.] Run 33-34 psi F&R, as rec by dealer [vs specs @ 32 psi]. Only 1-2 total people on board, mostly. At just under 18K on factory Michelins, getting some tire 'yammer' around 45 mph.Do you cross rotate?
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Installed 20x8.5 inch wheels/tires on 2011 Avalon Limited...tires are 245/35/20. I'm getting some rubbing when the car is loaded down and hitting bumps or too quick off the line. Car is white and I'm getting a little white paint on the outer wall of the back tires. Will rolling the quarter panels prevent rubbing or is this a too aggressive fitment?
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I have a brand new 2011 Avalon. It has 5000 miles on it. The car is a dream to drive. Best car I have ever owned. I love it. Except for one HUGE problem.
The windshield wipers chatter.
I told the dealer and they put on a pair of new blades. It didn't fix the problem. They still chatter.
I went to another dealer during a rainstorm because the chattering was driving me insane and without an appointment they threw on another pair of blades. I'm talking real Avalon blades. Not some third party brand. Guess what. They still chattered.
I am at a loss at what to do. When you look closely at the blades I notice that the ends near the bottom portion of the windshield don't make contact with the windshield. That can't be right.
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