I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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View 3 RepliesI have 2009 Toyota Avalon Limited, the switch on the master power switch that operate the passenger side won't work. Can the master switch be repaired? This is a power window switch.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Camry. I started hearing this knocking noise(really loud pop) from the rear. I have read the TSB's about a knocking noise coming from the "Spring Bumper" from the strut assembly and they are all facing the correct way. And there was also a TSB for a knocking noise from the "Roof Structure." The dampening bonds come apart and makes a knocking noise. I've replaced a strut mount in the right rear and that did not fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesCar is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
View 1 RepliesOk, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
View 3 RepliesFor the past couple of months my 2005 Avalon XLS has developed a clicking or knocking sound when I am turning right. I especially notice it when in reverse and turning right. Not only can you hear hit somewhat, but I can feel it vibrate through the brake pedal. It does do it while driving, but it is more noticeable when in reverse. It is also most noticeable when moving at slow speeds, such as in parking lots. It will also do it if the car is angle parked and the wheel is turning right.
Thus far my mechanic has replaced the struts, the linkage assembly, and done some work on the steering column. I'm tired of paying my mechanic to simply swap parts.
I have a 2005 Avalon LTD and the gas mileage dropped from 24+ to 18 seemingly overnight. I don't have a check engine light on. The car seems to be running fine. The only thing I notice is that when sitting at a light or just with the car idling, the avg mpg just keeps dropping. I just had filled the tank and it reset to 12.1 mpg and I sat there for a couple minutes with it idling, and the avg mpg dropped to 9.1. BTW, the car has 132000 miles. Spark plugs changed at 100K, PVC at 105K.
View 13 RepliesMy Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
Not long had my R and its making this noise but from the video need to know where the noise is coming from?
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I recently bought a 2005 Toyota Avalon Xls with 90k miles on it. The car has been averaging a very disappointing mpg of 11-12 in the city and around 17 on the highway. (much lower than the advertised 22/30 mpg)
At first i thought the mpg gauge could be malfunctioning, so i calculated it myself and ended up with same result: 11 mpg in the city. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, but plan on doing so ASAP. What could be causing this issue.
I didn't know my car was low on oil and the oil light never came on. The car has been working flawlessly till I got home and I heard a really weird knocking noise and it's a light knocking noise when the car is idling but when I press the gas pedal the noise becomes louder. The noise sounds like its internal it's coming from behind the engine near the exhaust manifold where the spark plugs are located. I have changed the spark plugs and drained and added new oil into the car but that still didn't fix the issue. The car has about 129,625 miles on it and is in mint condition buying a new engine would be pointless knowing that the value of the new engine is basically the value of buying another used car.
Car: Hyundai Sonata 2008 GLS 2.4l
I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon XLS that shuts off while driving! No acceleration or power-steering; the car simply stalls. The car only stalls when at low speed such 20mph, stopping for a light, or slowing down to turn.
The car will start right back up or you can put into neutral and restart. I have been dealing with this for a year! I have taken it to my Toyota dealer where I purchased and to no avail. The car throws no codes and no indicator light stays on once the the car is restarted. I have changed electrical wires, replaced battery, disabled remote start (previous owner installed; I purchased car used).
I have 2007 toyota avalon limited. Just had evaporator replaced and now AC only blows on the lowest temp. If you try to adjust temp it just switches to blowing hot. I think it might be the ac/heat actuator. I do have dual zone ac. I don't want to just start replacing parts.
View 5 RepliesI experienced a misfire code for #4 cylinder on my 2006 Toyota Avalon approx 8,000 miles ago and replaced the three front bank coils with Beck/Arnley coils. I didn't realize they were made in china until they arrived. The car ran fine until today when I got another misfire code for the same cylinder. I still had the two old coils in the garage so I swapped out # 4 and I'm happy to report that solved the problem. My question is should I be concerned that the # 4 cylinder has gone thru two coils in 8,000 miles or chalk it up to cheap chinese crap replacement parts?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Avalon. When you turn the wheel it will make about 1 1/2 turns to the right and then locks, but when you turn left it will turn almost 2 1/2 full turns, if you move you will hear what I believe is the tire rubbing, haven't done it since I first noticed this problem. What could be causing this?
The alignment and everything seems fine on the car and there is no other issues with the steering. Just that the wheel turns too far to the left.
I know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
Where can I get body side moldings for an 09 Avalon.
The door sides are quite exposed to door dings...
On my 09 avalon I always fill up the tank with premium gas. Got 225 miles out of it and the gas light came on. Went to fill up again and it only took 15 gallons. I googled it and our tanks are 18.5. Is my light coming on to early? Is there still 3 gallons left in the car when the light comes on?
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