Avalon 2005-12 :: 2009 AC Compressor / Temp Gauge Went Off
Aug 20, 2014
I have a 2009 Avalon XLS with about 60,000 miles. While my wife was driving home from work today the following happened:
AC compressor off (blows hot air), temp gauge not operating, abs light on, brake light on, avg. mileage and distance to empty display displays blanks, shift indicator on dash not lighting.
Rest of dash works fine, audio works, lights work, car runs fine.
I tried finding a common fuse, but really don't know what to look for.
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Looks like I'll be late for work today.. damn it's cold.. the temp needle went up to hot I immediately cut it off. It shouldn't have hurt her right?
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What's the easiest way to get access to the ac clutch coil without removing the compressor. How do you get to the coil? how many snap rings are there?
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Or, do the settings allow for a total a/c off or is there always some a/c assist ?
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I have 2007 toyota avalon limited. Just had evaporator replaced and now AC only blows on the lowest temp. If you try to adjust temp it just switches to blowing hot. I think it might be the ac/heat actuator. I do have dual zone ac. I don't want to just start replacing parts.
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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The outside temp gauge on my '05 Treg has never read correctly. It reads approx. +5 degrees F. throughout the range. Can this be recalibrated, by Vag-Com or otherwise, or is it a faulty sensor, needing the dealer's attention? Where is the sensor, anyhow?
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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I know the manual says the tank's cap. is 18, but I've run the gauge to ' E ' with yellow warning lite on and it'll still only take 15 -15.5.
Can it still have 2 gal. past the E marker ?
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Matrix with 250k on it. It has run like a champ so far, with the only problem being an ECM recall last year. I have noticed a few problems recently; the heat blows cold air for quite awhile, and the temperature gauge, while not reading hot, sort of fluctuates between normal and a little warm. When the ECM was being replaced, the dealer said the serpentine belt was overdue for replacement, and I know he's probably right about that. He also said the water pump needed replacing, although I have never seen any signs of leaking. This car has been a champ, and I'd like to try and get another 100k out of it if possible. I'm pretty handy around a car, I've replaced an alternator and radiator before, and I'm working on a limited budget, so if any of this is doable by me, I'm up for it.
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We have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe. Been running great. Has 140,000 miles on it 80% open road. Couple of weeks ago was highway driving and noticed the coolant temp gauge went all the way down to nothing, and then back up to normal (middle of the dial) This happened 5-6 times and each time as the temp rose back to normal, the transmission would lurch.
I took it to a mechanic who could not figure out what was wrong, but acknowledged it was running terribly. He said that was what he would try before going to a dealer. I agreed and the car instantly seemed to be running perfectly. Now a couple of weeks later, the coolant temp gauge is dropping again. It is not going all the way to nothing, and the transmission is not lurching. It goes down from half to a quarter and then back again. So something still seems to be wrong. Otherwise all seems to be well.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine came to me and decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning.
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'05 Ex overhead console temp is showing -40 deg... Had the board out looking for loose diodes, didn't see any. Have any of you ran into this before?
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I purchase my 05 GX470 last April,
Had the timing belt and water pump replaced as part of the deal. Lately in the cooler temperatures around the freezing point I've noticed that the temp gauge does not start to rise until I've driven about five minutes, longer if I go thru a drive thru and the truck is idling in the line up and the heater fan does not come on until I've driven about 10 minutes. The temp gauge takes about 15 -20 minutes of driving till it hits normal or half way on the scale. This seems longer than what I consider normal, at least for the heat to come on.
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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I know that if the shifter/transmission is set to "S" then it tends to use the engine as a braking system sort of like a manual transmission. My problem is that it does this while in "D" (drive) for about 5 seconds and then it back to normal as in it's like it's put back into neutral. I read the manual and it states that when you place it in "S" mode and then back to "D" mode it retains some of the "S" features such as engine braking, but in our 09 Avalon XLS, it does this all the time while in "D".
Question: Is this normal for engine braking for about 5 seconds while in drive mode?
If so is there any way to get it back to a normal automatic drive mode where as when you release the gas pedal it coasts without engine braking?
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Where can I get body side moldings for an 09 Avalon.
The door sides are quite exposed to door dings...
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On my 09 avalon I always fill up the tank with premium gas. Got 225 miles out of it and the gas light came on. Went to fill up again and it only took 15 gallons. I googled it and our tanks are 18.5. Is my light coming on to early? Is there still 3 gallons left in the car when the light comes on?
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We just purchased seemingly well cared for 2009 Avalon XLS. Navigation system is showing a DVD error (unable to read). First we thought it was missing the DVD then we discovered the DVD port in the truck and through some trial and error got the DVD (#U52) out. We are proceeding with the logic that the DVD is bad.
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