I have a 2007 Avalon with 134000 miles. It makes a soft tap noise around the drive belt area. The drive belt looks good. I only hear this noise a slow idle. What do you think ?
View 3 RepliesSo my 2010 with 20k miles on it just started to have some jingling/chirping noises around the drive belt area. It isn't all that loud but i can hear it. Could this be just a simple loose belt? Are our belts auto adjusting or manually adjusted? The noise increases with engine rpm in all gears and in neutral. Is def coming from the belt area.
One pulley does seem like it is not perfectly round and I can see some very slight run out from side to side. Nothing really obvious though - that might be normal?
I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
View 3 RepliesI have the annoying "clicking noise" with my certified used 2008 Avalon XLS. It only occurs after the car has been sleeping overnight or after five hours or so of not the running. So this is normal according to two dealers and that I need to watch it but it isn't an issue- normal. Still, it does not leave me feeling good about it. The car has 56k miles and it is smooth, quiet and responsive, just that "ticking". It does go away after 15 minutes or so of driving. They told me why it's happening and I found some answers here, on the forum.
My question is- will it get worse? Will Toyota only address it when the "ticking" gets loud and does not go away and I'm pushing smoke from the tail pipes?
I've been reading up on the LSC 90K recall with the defective VVT-i oil line. How can I find out if my Avalon has had the oil line replaced? Just a bit confused about if any records should exist for this and where I can find out.
I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesKind of stuck on a slight noise from the drive train on our 2007 Avy. It is not engine noise at a certain RPM it is from rolling at speed. I first rotated the tires and there was no difference at all. I thought it sounded like a CV going out so I replaced the left shaft. No luck. I could still hear it as it increases from nothing being stopped to being able to be felt slightly in the steering wheel either traveling straight or turning the worst between 60 and 65 MPH.
I replaced the right CV shaft and noticed slight wear in the support bearing and the support bearing bracket pinch bolt's rubber pad was worn in half. Ok, new CV shaft, new pinch bolt, tightened to specs, no luck. Ok, onto wheel bearings. I could still feel it in the steering wheel and it "sounded" like it was coming from the left side. I even rode as a passenger and moved about trying to get a better idea where it was coming from. I was convinced it was on the left so I pressed out the old bearing and installed new. No luck, same sound at the same speeds.
I replace the right wheel bearing (replacing a front wheel bearing on this car is not a fun job). Slightly better but still there. It's a subtle noise now but at the same speeds. I guess it could be a rear wheel bearing assembly but maybe I am missing something obvious.
We took my 08 Touring down to Florida for our vacation, and while she performed great- {average 28-32mpg @ 70ish mph} -she fell shy of expectations when we hit a few light rains. At speeds above 70 the drivers wiper blade would clear on the up stroke but not on the down stroke....yes, 1st thoughts are go slower, but that isn't a real answer for me.
Before leaving I installed new brakes {rotors/pads/hardware} all around, new Michelin tires {all 5} and "new wiper blades" {rain-X}. The new brakes were very useful going thru the stop and go traffic in Atlanta, the new tires were very useful in the twisties of Tennesee's hills...but the wipers had me getting lapped often on the way back home due to the lifting issue above 70, so I kept to 65-70mph.
The way I see it, it's either the wiper blades not having enough "ramp" on the blade for the wind to push it down at speed, or the wiper arm tension spring is going soft.
My car is an '08 with 154k...{no leaks/motor still has great power/went 3400 miles and she didn't burn a drop of oil!}.
Ok...I've been reading about Michelin tires on the forum and unfortunately, I just bought my 07' Limited with a brand new set of Kelly "Charger" Tires. So, I took a trip last week and noticed at 55-73 mph, the car rides nice, smooth, and quiet. However, when I hit 74 or 75 mph, I began hearing a road noise that sounds as if the tires have hit a certain oscillatory air resonance at this speed.
I'm wondering if it's due to the tire tread pattern or something else. Strangest damn thing. When I accelerate faster, the noise seems to diminish a little but still isn't smooth and quiet. Maybe I'm just drowning it out some while it accelerates. When I bring it back down below 74 mph, it goes nice and quiet again.
I have the tire pressures set at 40 psi (trying to get a little extra fuel mileage). However, I'm wondering if this might cause the problem...I believe the pressure should be between 35-38 psi. My TPMS light hasn't lit up, so I guess it doesn't see fault with an extra 2 psi. Anyway, the tires appear to be a quality tire. I looked they show the following ratings.
I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
I have a 97 GTP. When I am at idle, I get a very loud rattling noise coming from the drive belt area of the engine. The noise goes away when you rev the engine up, but returns immediately when idling. I removed the supercharger belt assembly, and then noise still occurs. This just started tonight out of the blue, and It is extremely loud.
View 14 RepliesThe other day I noticed that my '07 avalon was making some new noises. It's most noticeable once I get up about 15-20 mph and then very little touch the accelerator. It's sort of rotary noise that seems to be tied to the engine speed. Kind of like something rubbing that wasn't before. I also notice it when coming to a stop, foot of the accelerator, just braking the noise slows down. It seems even a bit louder when stopping.
View 3 RepliesHeat shield around the rear muffler near tail pipe is a piece of junk. it makes noise because its so flimsy. The wind blows on it going down the road its about as strong as tin foil. If you hear noise from the rear, check both heat shields they may have stones or leaves inside them, they can make weird noises.
View 3 RepliesWell, no wiring mod is required. Here is the procedure:
1. Set the LCD on the combination meter to the ODO trip.
2. Press and hold the TRIP meter reset knob for ten seconds or more within six seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position. Fastening the driver's seat belt while holding the knob cancels the buzzer reminder. (You may have to hit the reset meter knob to cycle through b-ON to b-OFF)
3. When this occurs, the LCD displays "b-OFF". The buzzer reminder can be switched between ON and OFF each time the TRIP meter knob is pressed. The LCD displays "b-ON" or "b-OFF" according to the buzzer reminder ON/OFF status. The display changes to the ODO or trip meter if the knob is not pressed in 10 seconds.
4) Performing steps 1) and 2) again when the buzzer reminder is off exits cancel mode.
I was able to disable the seat buzzer and took a drive. IT WORKs! I am so relieved.
I just got the new Avalon. Pretty nice but rear visability isn't great and front head room has been reduced to make it look sporty. My problem is with the obnoxious seat belt warning chime which seems to go on forever. How to disable it? I use my belt all the time. Don't need a reminder.
View 14 RepliesCan you turn off the passenger seat belt chime like you can on the Tundra? Dealer or owner job?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 limited with 45000 miles. It sits in the garage most of the time. A couple of days ago I went shopping and I noticed the area around the passenger airbag was shiny. I could only see it when the sun hit just right. I wonder if it is the defective dash.
View 2 RepliesGot a nice rattle coming from the serpentine belt area of the camry, before I order some parts, I'm thinking the bearing in the tensioner is done, I just don't want to swap it out only to find out its my water pump barking or alternator bearing/bushing. doesn't seem to be emanating from the alternator.
Here's the short video : [URL] ....
When I purchased the 09 XLS last year the seller told me the trunk/cargo light didn't work and I assumed it was a bulb. The bulb could have come in handy several times so I attempted a repair. I removed the bulb and it seemed to be ok, but I decided to replace it will a new 2825 and it also didn't work. I'll assume there is no dedicated fuse specifically for the trunk/cargo light so I guess there must be a break in the line.
Is this common for the Avalon in our generation? It's too cold to diagnose so I'll have to wait for warmer weather unless it's an easy repair.
I've been having this ongoing clunk in the front of my 06 Avalon for about a month now. When I slightly hit the brake i'm getting almost a metal on metal clunk sound from right in front of the drivers side wheel area, or possibly on the other side wheel well area, and not sure if its related but a popping noise when i turn my wheel a certain way it seems.
Replaced:
Both CV axles
Both Rotors
Both transmission mount and engine mount (left and right side)
Dog Bone torque bar on top
Drivers side caliper
Control arms
Struts were replaced 6 months ago, and reused old mounts, so I took it out and replaced the strut mount with the bearing on passenger side only.
Control arms have been replaced 4 or 5 times in 6 months because they keep cracking, they are being installed correctly and still having the issue, they're slightly cracked right now (many tiny little rips in the rubber rear bushing of the front control arms) perhaps this is the problem and they're flexing too far? They're Dorman and ordered off of amazon. I have 2 replacement ones arriving tomorrow and will throw them in.
124k miles. I have had multiple shops look at it and cant figure it out, they said everything is tight. One shop said it was internal transmission.
Can't find a way to use a USB drive to play songs through the stereo system on an '06 avalon yet.
my '12 kia optima has this option and I love it: I hardly listen to the radio any longer and it certainly beats having to shuffle around CDs every few days. I guess I could try using an FM transmitter that has a built-in USB slot.
2008 lexus es350 -- chirping noise from serpentine belt area. Chirping starts after a bit of driving. Got belt replaced, mechanic says it is water pump (as he says he saw marking and could be a prior leak), but I don't want to do this trial and error.
I got belt replaced by the mechanic who said wold fix the problem but did not. Should I replace water pump as it is expense on es350 and only to have chirping noise not fixed as it could be something else like alignment or idler pulley etc.