Avalon 2005-12 :: 2007 Downshift Immediately And Jerks When Apply Brakes
Sep 3, 2013
I have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
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On my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
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When I apply the brakes on and off while in park, I hear a "fluttering squeaking" noise. I examined the brake pads and calipers, and everything seems to be fine. I greased up all the brake hardware and no luck.
Also, I have a popping noise while making turns while I am not braking. I really doubt there is any connection with the brakes? I recently went testing in a parking lot, and while slightly turning from left to right I noticed the popping constantly. Keep in mind no brakes were applied.
Last year the dealer replaced the brake actuator and all arms were replaced. BTW, I am past my extended 100K warranty!!
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I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
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I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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My Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
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1988 Mercury Grand Marquis
It jerks on occasion. Seems to do this at the point when it should downshift, but does not downshift. If I press down on the gas so that it downshifts then it runs fine.
Does it worst in cruise control. If I take it off of cruise control I can 'feel' when it is about to jerk and I can prevent it from jerking by either letting off on the gas a little bit, or pushing down on the gas so that it downshifts. Some of the time in cruise control it downshifts very smoothly.
It was getting worse and some good injector cleaner added to the gas seemed to solve the problem but it never did go away completely.Lately it has been getting a lot worse, mainly on moderate upgrades. Have not had a chance to get more good injector cleaner recently. The jerk is almost like the computer tells the engine to shut but then changes its mind.
1988 Ford Crown Victoria
Did a similar thing, mostly on fairly flat ground at around 35 MPH constant speed, when it seemed to be indecisive on whether to downshift or not.
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For as long as I remember (40000+ KM), I've noticed that my steering wheel vibrates when stopped with the brakes and in D. ie, while stopped at a red light. It immediately goes away when I lift off the brake or put the car into neutral.
The vibration isn't crazy. I can only feel it through the steering wheel or touching around it. However, it is certainly very noticeable and also audible.
Have this vibration through the steering wheel? (Avalon V6) I'm hoping this isn't a defect in the car...
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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I had new tires put on, front end alignment done, had to have tires rebalanced and still major shaking between 40 -60 mph. What it could be??
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My car is 2007 Avalon(Limited). I have a problem with my A/C.
When I go out from work (at outside temperature of 95 F to 100 F ) I turn the A/C ON, it blows a nice cold air. and then when I stop at the traffic light for 4 minutes or so, the A/C start blowing a hot air(or air without any cooling). then I a had to pull over and turn it OFF and then turn it ON again. so it will become cold again. sometimes it continue blowing a nice cold air, and sometimes it just stop cooling and blowing a hot air for a while and then become cold again. the hot air its like its without the A/C sign turned green but its actually ON.(it happened everyday for a month now)
In the morning(7 am, 80 F), I switch the A/C on and move on to work, it took me around 50 min by car from my house to work. but after around 40 min it became hot again.(not everyday)
Note: Before this problem by 4 months, the ac in the driver side was hot and the passenger side was cold. and I add some refrigerant(Freon) in it and it become OK again.
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I bought an 07 for my dad one owner with 89000 miles on it and all the records it's has been less than 2 years and now 125000 miles
The dashboard is cracking, electrical issues, last time was a 700 bill to replace one of the computers, now the key remote doesn't work at all, and yes I changed the battery it is normal because the mileage and age on this cars.
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A/C wont work. The freon is empty no visual scratch or leak found pipe or condenser. I haven't check the evaporator, the latter may be tough to check as it sits inside the dash.
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How I can update the navigation system on my Avalon? I know I will need a DVD for the update, but I'm unsure of version I can get that will work for my car.
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Ok...I've been reading about Michelin tires on the forum and unfortunately, I just bought my 07' Limited with a brand new set of Kelly "Charger" Tires. So, I took a trip last week and noticed at 55-73 mph, the car rides nice, smooth, and quiet. However, when I hit 74 or 75 mph, I began hearing a road noise that sounds as if the tires have hit a certain oscillatory air resonance at this speed.
I'm wondering if it's due to the tire tread pattern or something else. Strangest damn thing. When I accelerate faster, the noise seems to diminish a little but still isn't smooth and quiet. Maybe I'm just drowning it out some while it accelerates. When I bring it back down below 74 mph, it goes nice and quiet again.
I have the tire pressures set at 40 psi (trying to get a little extra fuel mileage). However, I'm wondering if this might cause the problem...I believe the pressure should be between 35-38 psi. My TPMS light hasn't lit up, so I guess it doesn't see fault with an extra 2 psi. Anyway, the tires appear to be a quality tire. I looked they show the following ratings.
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