Avalon 2005-12 :: 2007 XL - Intermittent Front End Clunk When Hit A Bump
Mar 26, 2015
We have a 2007 Avalon XL with 65K miles that we bought 2 years ago from my parents with 40K miles. Last summer at about 50k miles it developed a clunking noise in the left front when you hit a bump. An independent Toyota mechanic diagnosed it as a bad upper front strut mount and he wanted to change the struts along with the mounts. We didn't have the money so we waited.
When I put the snow tires on in the fall, the noise went away. All I did was install a winter set of wheel/tires and I also turned the wheel/tire left-to-right to see if I could find anything loose but I didn't.
The noise came back about a month ago so when I had the snow tires rotated I asked our tire mechanic to check it out. He said he couldn't find anything definite but thought it was the sway bar links. We didn't have him change them because he wasn't sure.
Now the noise is gone again and we have just put new tires on it. I want to have an alignment because the previous set of tires wore more on the inside but am afraid to have it aligned if we need to replace some parts first. What could be causing this intermittent left front clunking noise?
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I already changed the two front struts but the clunk its still there when i hit a bump or irregular surface, the dealer told me that I have replace the two front strut mounts too (I have a 2007 Camry SE V6 w 112 miles on it), that can solve my problems?
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I've been having this ongoing clunk in the front of my 06 Avalon for about a month now. When I slightly hit the brake i'm getting almost a metal on metal clunk sound from right in front of the drivers side wheel area, or possibly on the other side wheel well area, and not sure if its related but a popping noise when i turn my wheel a certain way it seems.
Replaced:
Both CV axles
Both Rotors
Both transmission mount and engine mount (left and right side)
Dog Bone torque bar on top
Drivers side caliper
Control arms
Struts were replaced 6 months ago, and reused old mounts, so I took it out and replaced the strut mount with the bearing on passenger side only.
Control arms have been replaced 4 or 5 times in 6 months because they keep cracking, they are being installed correctly and still having the issue, they're slightly cracked right now (many tiny little rips in the rubber rear bushing of the front control arms) perhaps this is the problem and they're flexing too far? They're Dorman and ordered off of amazon. I have 2 replacement ones arriving tomorrow and will throw them in.
124k miles. I have had multiple shops look at it and cant figure it out, they said everything is tight. One shop said it was internal transmission.
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I had my brakes done almost two weeks ago and last week I noticed a metallic sounding clunk front right (I think) when I went over a bump. It's hard to replicate but I've heard it a few times. On the weekend I reversed and heard that same clunk. When I went forward slowly, I could hear a sound that can only be described as a few screws in a rotating soda can. When I sped up, all sounds disappeared.
I took it to my tech yesterday on the way home. He found a bit of a loose fit between the new caliper and what it attaches to, which he fixed. However, the sound persists. Tech said all suspension components seem tight and normal.
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Started out clunk sound only if going over speed bump, or bumpy road. Now more often with slightest road bumps.
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My wife and I bought a 2014 Elantra with 30,000 miles on it. This is our first Hyundai and the car runs great, but the only issue I have is that whenever I go over a large bump in the road, the front suspension clunks and feels like it's coming apart. Smaller bumps or imperfections in the road are okay and the car runs smoothly over those, but the larger bumps and potholes produce an unreassuring clunk.
We've never owned a Hyundai before and we really like the car, but I was wondering if this is normal for the Elantra and if others experience this. I brought the car to the dealer and they checked everything out. They said all was fine and that it was normal. Is it?
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Experienced the problem of a flashing defrost button and the entire HVAC system "frozen"? All the other buttons become useless while the defrost button is flashing on and off. If I then hold either the a/c button or the auto button, the system starts up at 75 degrees with the air running. I can then adjust to where I want it to be.
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I purchased the Avalon at the end of the 2012 year. It now has 16,000 miles on it. The car is garaged outside in Massachusetts. On November 10, 2012 (month after purchase) and yesterday, January 28, 2014, the car was brought back to the dealership for a rear suspension clunking noise that happens during cold weather (32 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit). Both times the mechanics say they cannot find anything wrong, nothing is loose with the suspension, and there are no recalls about it.
The best way to describe the noise is when going over potholes in cold weather, I hear a clunk from rear suspension (both left and right side) like something is loose in the trunk (trunk was completely empty yesterday). The sound is not too loud, but audible enough to notice. The rear struts perform well, and the car does not bottom out. As soon as the weather warms up, the noise goes away. It is very really annoying to hear this clunk and the dealership not be able to identify the problem.
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I bought this truck a little over a year ago and have put almost 30,000 miles on it. When I bought it, it had a clunk from the front end, but only when I went over a significant bump. It was most pronounced when I, for example, hit a speed bump at an angle and the body rocked back and forth. It's steadily been getting worse and now it's fairly concerning. It happens on pretty much every bump now. Additionally, I've developed a fairly significant shimmy under braking and a vibration over 65mph. I got into a fairly scary shimmy when trying to slow down as I was going down a mountain a few weeks ago.
The other day I started getting a grinding noise from the front right. It goes away when the brakes are pressed. I don't know if the grinding noise and vibration/shimmy are related to the clunking or if they are the result of a separate issue. I have plenty of brake pad and rotor on all corners and there is no perceptible play in any of the front end components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, shock mounts, etc.). I suspected the leaf spring bushings, but I supported the truck by the frame and still got no noticeable play when jerking things around by hand.
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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I had new tires put on, front end alignment done, had to have tires rebalanced and still major shaking between 40 -60 mph. What it could be??
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I have a front end noise when I go over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. It is kind of a crunching nise like something needs grease.
The Hyundai dealer charged me $54 to diagnose the problem and told me I needed both upper control arms replaced to the tune. They did force some grease in the bushings.
The car only has 63000 miles.
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My car is 2007 Avalon(Limited). I have a problem with my A/C.
When I go out from work (at outside temperature of 95 F to 100 F ) I turn the A/C ON, it blows a nice cold air. and then when I stop at the traffic light for 4 minutes or so, the A/C start blowing a hot air(or air without any cooling). then I a had to pull over and turn it OFF and then turn it ON again. so it will become cold again. sometimes it continue blowing a nice cold air, and sometimes it just stop cooling and blowing a hot air for a while and then become cold again. the hot air its like its without the A/C sign turned green but its actually ON.(it happened everyday for a month now)
In the morning(7 am, 80 F), I switch the A/C on and move on to work, it took me around 50 min by car from my house to work. but after around 40 min it became hot again.(not everyday)
Note: Before this problem by 4 months, the ac in the driver side was hot and the passenger side was cold. and I add some refrigerant(Freon) in it and it become OK again.
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I bought an 07 for my dad one owner with 89000 miles on it and all the records it's has been less than 2 years and now 125000 miles
The dashboard is cracking, electrical issues, last time was a 700 bill to replace one of the computers, now the key remote doesn't work at all, and yes I changed the battery it is normal because the mileage and age on this cars.
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A/C wont work. The freon is empty no visual scratch or leak found pipe or condenser. I haven't check the evaporator, the latter may be tough to check as it sits inside the dash.
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Front door speaker on my 08 Ltd is blown...I cannot find a way to remove the grill. Do I have to pull the door panel to get at it?
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I disconnected my negative terminal on my 2007 Avalon to remove the radio. I eneded up having an incorrect connector for what I was doing so I reinstalled the factory radio back into the car after having it out all of about 20 minutes. The only connectors I touched were the two attached to the vent casing around the radio and the ones plugged into the radio. After reconnecting the negative cable, I see that my driver window no longer goes down automatically with the long push of the button.
My front passenger window will also not go down with the driver side controls. (it will with the control on its own door). The rear windows work fine with the driver side controls. Also, my sunroof will not auto open or auto close with the long push. It will open, but I have to keep it pushed down until it is done. Is there something I just need to reset since I unhooked the battery? I remember something like this happening in my 4runner in the past.
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How I can update the navigation system on my Avalon? I know I will need a DVD for the update, but I'm unsure of version I can get that will work for my car.
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