Avalon 2005-12 :: 2007 - High Mount Brake Light Works Sporadically
Dec 17, 2011
My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
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My wife's 2010 ES 350 third brake light has an intermittent LED issue. The last 3 LEDs on the pass side flash on/off when the brake is depressed. My understanding is there may be a broken solder joint. My problem is I can't seem to get the assembly out. How the high mount assembly is mounted and how to remove it?
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MY 06 Avalon has acquired a check engine light that goes on and off sporadically..mechanic states it was a misfire cleared the codes but now it has come back and then turned itself off only to come back again. Car 80k miles..needs tuneup ?
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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Can this be changed easily by a non-dealer? The local Autozone doesn't list any replacement bulbs or assemblies, and I can't see a simple way of accessing the light assembly from the trunk.
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Someone mentioned to me this week that my high mount brake light was not working. No big deal, just a burned out bulb I assumed. Well, I replaced the bulbs (two bulbs) and it still does not work. The sockets look fine, no corrosion. The wiring that I can see looks good. I used a volt meter & found I'm getting no juice at the socket . . ? Is there an in line fuse or something else simple I should check. I'm thinking this should be an easy fix & am frustrated I can't figure it out. By the way, my lower brake lights are working fine.
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Trying to replace the burnt bulbs. Did the obvious: removed the two screws but in no way could I take the red lens off. I pried hard almost broke it but it's not coming off. It feels like some other mechanism holding it down. It is the one on top of the lift gate. The inside is just a hole with wires going through. What's the trick?
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Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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Lexus has diagnosed a ground fault with an intermittent connection.... I am not sure how to proceed ... Could it be a light bulb connection... or does it even have these? Can the part be serviced in place... or must I replace the whole assembly?
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Fan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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My 08 center brake light stopped working. I already bought a new one and my mechanic will install it. He said some of those LED brake light needs to be reprogrammed after installation at the dealership but he is not sure until he get it installed. Does the LED assembly needs to be programmed after installation?
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I've had my Avalon at the Toyota shop more than 12 times with the same problem...a/c light on dash flashes off and on. The A/C system shuts down. Sometimes the command center says check A/C.
We have gone through the replace game, compressor twice, relay four times, too much refrigerant-to little refrigerant multiple times and loose wire multiple times.
This is supposed to be a Toyota Certified car if that means anything. The car has 86,000 miles.
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Took my 07 Avalon Touring to the dealer because of a check engine light. They replaced coil and plugs, but also told me unbalanced wheels had caused the computer to throw a code. As Click and Clack would say, this sounds bogus. I'm feeling no vibration and the wheels were balanced about 3 months ago.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5x, and I've been struggling with the air conditioner for over a year.
The AC works amazingly when the car has been shaded / in a garage (even if the garage is not air conditioned - so the garage temp is probably still 90 degrees). The problem is when I've parked the car outside in a sunny area. Then, it takes about 25 minutes for the AC to blow cold air consistently. In this case, the fan w blow hot air with tiny spurts of cool-ish air, but nothing that meaningfully cools my car. I live in Texas, so the car is HOT; I'm not expecting instantaneous cooling, but after 3-5 minutes of driving, I would hope it would be getting cooler in the car.
I park in full sun at work, and then drive to pick my kids up from daycare. The car is hot and stays hot until we are home. Of course, I roll down the windows, but I'm always pulling the kids out of the car sweaty and overheated. Lately, it's turned super-warm, so this is getting more miserable and dangerous for the kids.
Coolant was replaced seven months ago with little effect. What could be causing this, although I suspect it's something related to overheating / a sensor or thermostat since it only happens when the car has been parked in the sun. Internet sleuthing reveals everything from o-rings, compressor, compressor clutch, oiling the bearings or clutch plate, cylinder head gasket, etc.
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How to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
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My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
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In my 2000 V6 Passat...I noticed that my temp gauge sporadically works...more often not. Is there a fuse or something that controls it?
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I have a 99 Toyota Camry and recently the breaklight has been coming on and off sporadically. I assumed I had done some damage to my E-break, as the other week I tried to back out with it on (cut me some slack, I just moved to PA after having only really driven in FL lol). I wasn't worried about it since I didn't notice any issues with my breaks, however the last few days I randomly have to press the pedal down almost to the floor to come to a full stop. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to this, sometimes it happens when the light is on but usually not. It does it both when I am stopped (causing me to move forward slightly till I depress it farther), sometimes when I am stopping normally, both when I'm going straight and right after turning, ect.
I checked my break fluid level and it is at the minimum line so I doubt that is the issue. I did some research and saw many saying that it was likely just air in the lines and that the system needed to be bled. But some also mentioned replacing the master cylinder so I wanted to see what response I might get on here (I don't know very much about cars myself).
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My oil pressure light came on about a week ago (while I was out of town), so I took it to the dealer who replaced the oil pressure sensor. I got home and noticed oil was leaking. Brought it to my mechanic who said it was probably just residual oil (same thing I found on this forum), but he put dye in the oil just to be sure. I brought the car back today and it is definitely leaking oil from the engine. He said it was probably the main seal at the back. It is now at the local dealer who has said that the seal is covered by warranty.
Could the original problem have been caused by the leaking seal? The car was originally leaking oil and the oil pressure light would come on sporadically. Generally the light would go off when I accelerated. I realize that these sensors tend to break pretty regularly, but it was not a warranty item and this seems like a pretty big coincidence to me. Maybe it is just a coincidence ?
2011 Santa Fe ltd, awd, 69000 miles, 3.5 L.
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