Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
View 1 RepliesI have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
View 14 RepliesMy Key Fob buttons stopped working, I can't remote lock/unlock the doors or truck anymore with the key. It will still open the doors and start the car however. My thought is the battery is dead. 2 Questions.
First, how do I change the battery?
Second, does the key have to be reprogrammed? If so, can I do it, or is that a dealer thing?
I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
View 8 RepliesOn my sister's 2009 avalon unlimited, the remote will only unlock the rear drivers side door. If the door handle is grasped to unlock the doors, only the rear drivers side door unlocks. On the inside of the car, the drivers side door unlock switch (master switch) does nothing. The passengers side door unlock switch only unlocks the rear drivers side door. The bottom line is that only the rear drivers side door locks and unlocks using the remote or passenger side door unlock button on the inside of the vehicle.
View 5 RepliesI have the OEM remote starter. All of a sudden it stopped working. I hit the lock button 3 times like I always did. I get the confirmation tone but it does not do anything after that.
How I can fix it?
Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
View 1 RepliesI traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
The dear wife crashed our 2004 Prius, crumpling the entire bumper and left front side. The body shop has fixed everything nicely, with one small exception. There is no longer the reassuring beep(s) when using the fob to remotely lock or unlock the doors. The lights flash, as before, and the panic alarm still works.
View 2 RepliesThe "lock" button of my remote door lock fob stopped working. 2006 Toyota Matrix... I went out to my car this morning and it was unlocked. Apparently been unlocked since I drove it 2 days ago.Someone went in it and emptied the contents of my glove compartment on to the floor and opened all the other compartments, except the one for change.Stupid thief could have heisted ~$2 in quarters. I never leave valuables in my car.I could still lock the doors with the buttons on the front doors, so I went researching the remote lock receiver (one of the many "black boxes").I found out it's expensive ($4-500 new) and buried behind trim in the back of the car.This evening I was thinking more clearly and calmly so I went out to pull the trim and have a look at this module.I tried the "hatch" button to see if the separate rear glass opening latch still functioned, and it did.I closed the glass and low and behold the "lock" button started working again! Problem solved!So the remote won't lock the doors if the rear glass is not closed securely.
View 10 RepliesLock seems to be stuck. I have to use the key. Other doors unlock with the remote once I have opened driver door with key. It is a 1998 Honda CRV with 103,692 miles in good shape. This problem may occur on all types of cars. Can it be repaired...
View 3 RepliesThe battery seems good in key, but I can stand next to car and it will "click" but door wont lock or unlock.
View 3 Replies1) This is not battery problem, because smart function is work. If battery dead , smart function complete dead, and I change 2 new battery.
2) sometime smart fob can remote lock door. but 99% is not work. I don't know why.
I've 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.4 AWD. From past few days my Front Passenger Door Lock/Unlock is not responding when i try to open via remote lock/Unlock buttons. All other door locks are working fine. I googled and found some issues with door actuators.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
I unlocked my 2010 Elantra yesterday afternoon with the fob. Opened the passenger front door. Turned on the ignition to Accessory for a while, then turned off, removed key, closed door, and locked with the fob. Sometime after dark, a neighbor alerted me that the car lights were on. I checked, all the doors were completely closed and the trunk was shut. The key fob would unlock/lock the car, but the lights would not go off (they were in the "automatic" position and normally work just as they should). Pushing the lock button twice would not beep the horn, either. So I turned the light switch completely off, and that did turn them off. Even the dome light would not go off until I put the switch in "off" position. By then, the battery was too drained to start the car so I put it on a charger for a while. This morning it started and all the remote functions seem to work as they should.
View 2 RepliesI have azera 2006 , originally i don't have buzzer sound on lock/unlock the car by remote. so i get a siren horn 12v and i tried to connect this one to the car motor locking(front right side),when i tried it gave me sound on lock or on unlock not with both ways.finally i failed to do it and i decide to cancel that. after that i had a problem, when i lock the car by remote, there is no indication lights coming tells that the car is locked, but the doors are locked except there is no light from the turn signs and if you try to open the trunk it will open, that should not be. Also, if you are inside the car and the car is on, if some one open or close the right door the car will make 3 times door unlocking. So, i think shortage happened to the module or to some sensors so the system not close the circuit.
Is this car has a control module for key less entry or that combined with bcm.
Do i need to change the module or bcm?
Do i need to reprogram the keys?