Austin - Healey :: 1954 - Unexpectedly Stopped - Getting Clogged?
Apr 9, 2011
I think his problem in today's show is the fuel tank.. It needs to be cleaned. When I was in college, I drove a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4. I was young like the fellow calling in today. The car would unexpectedly stop for no reason but it would slow down the same way as the MGTD just before it would stop. I would let the car sit for 10 minutes and it would restart without issue..drive for an hour..drive for several days till it would happen again... Rust inside the fuel tank is the deal..the pick up is getting clogged.
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I drove my friend's austin healey (forget model year, it has twin carburetors, 4 cylinder motor). The gears had a lot of torgue - all the way up to the top gear. It had a overdrive stretch perhaps telescoping the top gear to two more higher order gears. Question: Is that normal for sports cars to have such high order torque gearing. I thought sports cars gears stretched from a high order lowest gear to very low torque higher gears.
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I have a newly rebuilt engine on my 1965 Austin Healey 3000. When the engine is cold it makes a popping/backfire noise. After the engine has warmed up for 10-15 minutes, it doesn't make the noise anymore. See this video [URL] .....
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2010 Prius owner here. Both low beams stopped working unexpectedly last night. High beams still work, but when I switch to low beams, I just get the park lights.
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I have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a ghost. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly and will crank but not restart. It has been in the shop now for over 2 weeks with no sign of getting fixed. The Crankshaft sensor has been replaced, but this did not fix the problem.
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I have a 2012 VW Passat 52k miles.
The Air Bag light went off unexpectedly. I bought the car new, no accidents. I know there is a clock spring recall related to the Air Bag on the car, so I took it in today to get that done and get the Air Bag light inspected.
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Today, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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Car now unexpectedly jumps to high fan speed when first started. Doenst matter what the temp is set to or if it was previsouly on Auto or Manual when last shut off. Did I change some custom setting? or has a gremlin appeared after so many years and care free miles? (05, 78K)
Its not a big deal but rather is annoying to get in and hear that immediate rush before I can turn the dial down.
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My 1997 Explorer with a 5.0 will surge making the truck lunge forward unexpectedly. If I drop it into neutral the RPMs drop right down.
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2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0l V-6. In June while driving to a job interview, my brakes unexpectedly failed. With absolutely no warning, the pedal went straight to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder...problem solved. 5 months later, driving to the gym, after stopping successfully several times with no mushiness in the pedal, at an intersection, the pedal goes straight to the floor...no stopping power.
I can't remember if the brake light came on last time. This time it did. Both times the fluid in the reservoir was full and looked to be relatively clean. Both times there were no apparent leaks in any of the fuel lines, abs module, at the cylinder, etc. I'm no slouch when it comes to car repair. The master cylinder replacement was done correctly, the lines were bled properly.
I have my own theories but I don't like any of them as my car rolls properly at idle, my brakes have not, nor do they currently make any noise or grinding sounds, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
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Had an incident this past weekend where the heat shields on my 2000 passat limited, v-6, 5-spd automatic, burst into flames unexpectedly during the course of a vacation drive in the mountains.
Contacted vw customer relations and their position is that since the vehicle has 148,000 miles on it, and it is out of warranty, it would not be unexpected for the heat shields to degrade and burn, so it is my problem for not having the heat shields properly maintained. Since when are heat shields a maintenance item?
I did not design them or choose the inappropriate materials to manufacture them. I would like to know and make vw aware that there is a very serious safety risk in the choice of materials they have used for heat shielding.
Am I wrong to expect that a heat shield would prevent fires, not cause them? Is it also wrong for me to expect vw to be responsible for the choice of materials they used, that now poses a serious risk to the safety of myself and others?
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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I have a 1999 GA GT 3.4L with 70,000 miles on it and about 2 months ago I started to notice that the temp gauge was reading higher then it used to and when this happened the tranny would want to slip a little bit on me in Drive (but only when I would change from park to Drive or Reverse to Drive). I now am starting to notice that the engine wants to continue to heat up even after I turn the car off and acceleration seems down a little, all of this is making me think and has been suggested to me that my Cat Converter could be clogged up, not letting exhaust gasses escape as much as they need to.
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My water drain valve in my gas cap isn't draining and must be clogged or something. I tried sticking a paper clip down it but that didn't do it. How to unclog this or get to it?
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I took my car for the engine knocking at 34xxx miles to the dealer here in NJ. They mentioned it was the EGR that was clogged, so they replaced it. 2 weeks after that, the same incident happened whenever it wasn't allowed to warm up. This time the dealer diagnosed it with having a hole in piston #1? To make the story short, i received my car 2 days ago with a brand new engine from toyota. I tried to re-create the same issue, and it would not happen. Could this be resolved once and for all.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo. When I had the transmission serviced, the shop put only half the fluid in because transmission was "clogged up" and needed to losen up before a full flush. I've talked with other repair shops and they say it should have had a full flush. Is this normal?
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I only removed the standard air filter housing and fresh air intake yesterday to get access to the VSS and Speedo drive to change the differential fluid on my 01M transmission. I was surprised to find that there was a fine metal mesh screen installed at the entrance to this air intake tube. This would be located behind the battery and just behind the drivers side headlight is where this metal mesh screen is located. Anyways, this was easily disassembled to clean and reassemble. However, I did not find anything about this mesh screen in my Chilton's manual, but this is now on my annual maintenance list. I added some pic's to show the clogged air tube. There was also a spring loaded door on this air intake tube...
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