Engine runs fine while in park but if put into drive rpm's won't get above 2500 then begins to choke.
-Fuel filter changed
-no vacuum leaks
-disconnected cat
-good spark
-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
View 15 RepliesI have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
The son inlaw just bought a 86 4runner. It's been beat pretty good but I know Toys are good for it. My question is, it rev's just fine in every gear but 5th. Going down a flat highway and in 5th it won't rev over 2500 no matter how much gas ya give it. It has a 22re and 31-9.50's under it. My daughter had a 86 p/u with a 22r (I believe) and 33-10.50's and it had no problem hitting 90. Is there a limiter on these things? Thought i'd ask before chasing vac lines.
View 2 RepliesSo yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesStarted a few days ago, There is a faint whistle noise when I am open throttle around 2500rpms. It lasts for about a second and does not occur at any other time. It does not occur under gradual acceleration, or when the car is parked/in neutral and just revving. I tried searching the forums *a little* bit, but my keywords just may have not been right.
My first inkling is that it may be related to flapper, since the rpms seem right and sounds vacuum related to me. But, the unit is completely disconnected (have borla cat-back) and the hose is ziptied, so is this possible? I will try to get a video of the noise later today.
My 2008 Accent started to stutter between 1500 and 2500 rpms. Now the check engine light has come on, and the engine is idling rough.
View 3 RepliesI have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
View 4 RepliesWhen I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
View 24 RepliesI've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.
That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
View 2 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
View 1 RepliesI have an 03 Camry LE with 80,000 miles I do all the maintenance myself it has had the alternator replaced once at around 40,000 miles. The problem that just started is a whistling sound that ONLY is audible after 2500 rpm at acceleration. When the car is in park no matter how much I revive the engine I can not get it to make the whistle sound it ONLY can be heard at acceleration after 2500 rpms.
Also once I cease to accelerate it goes away while I'm driving there is NO Whistling. I've read that it could be the alternator so I had it checked twice on the car and it checked out good it passed all tests. I've removed the belt and spun the pulley to listen for bad bearing but to me sounded fine. I've removed the throttle body boot and checked for cracks an found nothing also cleaned throttle body (not that it needed it) while I had it off.
Also checked air box and nothing. The only thing I've done recently was take out cabin air filter to clean and replaced it but there was no problem with that. What's puzzling is that it ONLY occurs at acceleration after 2500 rpms then stops after acceleration.
I have a 2003 Camry 2.4 LE with 120k miles on it. It's been very well taken care of. As of now, here is the maintenance that has been completed at my dealership. By the way, I don't trust dealerships, but I do have one nearby that is actually beyond outstanding (and I know a little about cars):
- Regular oil changes, and always with 5W-30
- Radiator flush and thermostat replacement
- Tranny flush
- New front brakes, rear brakes cleaned, and lines flushed.
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Valve cover gasket replaced
- Spark plugs replaced (at around 105k)
So, with this information being provided, here is my current problem. Lately, as I accelerate between 1500-2500 rpms, the engine has a louder than usual (but not too loud) groaning noise. Basically, the engine just sounds a tad louder than normal along with groaning noise. The engine also feels as though it is running kind of "dry" (if that makes any sense).
Now, above 2500 rpms, it's just fine. It's amazing on the highway, but I feel as though it has slightly lost acceleration in the city. The only issue with the car is the infamous greyish/blue smoke at startup, but that rarely happens and when it does, its a small amount of smoke, and it has never affected it's performance or gas mileage. Another thing is that I had to have that dreaded oil splash guard removed, because apparently the timing chain punctured it and it was about to fall off.
This problem has been recent within the last month. Just before this, the car has been on a roundtrip to Tucson from Tulsa, and Amarillo twice, complete with 32+mpg on the highway! So, what's wrong? Serptentine belt? PCV valve? Cam or something underneath the valve cover?