I am having trouble with my 1999 aurora, it starts hard but idles smooth if I accelerate it misses bad, if I am at a light and try to take off quickly it "coughs" and sputters i replaced all the plugs and wires and ran a diagnostics on it and I am getting a tcc solenoid reading not sure what to do next, read up on the tcc and it is not showing any of the symptoms that i hear described there.
View 7 Replies3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
View 2 RepliesI've got a P0456 code on my 02 LS v6. I came to a stop at a light, RPMs quickly dipped twice from 800 to 400(ish) then went right back to normal idle (800-1000) and the CEL lit up. It seems to be running fine other than the RPM drops after coming to a stop.
I checked the gas cap, everything seems OK there. Checked the hoses coming into/out of Evap valve (well, assuming this diagram actually points me to the evap valve: [URL] .... and there were no major/detectable cracks. Any other hoses/fittings that I should check?
I just gave my daughter a 97 Aurora for Christmas as her first car. The car is showing signs of electrical problems and I can't locate the problem. When the headlights are turned on manually or are enabled by the twilight sentinel the driver seat controls stop functioning and there is a clicking noise located directly over the instrument display. If the lights or twilight sentinel are turned off the seat controls work except for being able to move the seat forward. The clicking sound that exists with the lights on will stop momentarily if the seat control swithes are manipulated. The seat will not move but the clicking ceases for 30 seconds and returns. Are the headlights and power seat controlled by the same relay, wiring or module? How can I fix this problem? This Christmas gift is looking like a lemon.
View 2 RepliesI have a new-to-me 2007 GX470 with 150k miles. Clunk sound doesn't always happen and is not that bad. It usually happens when I stop quickly, not on a gradual stop. 150k service was done 2k miles ago, so it might have been greased.
Will this cause any issues with the vehicle if drive shaft is not replaced? Is it just annoying? Is there any chance that Lexus will fix on a vehicle with 150k miles?
My 06 FX4 has 106k it started acting up shifting last week and its driving me crazy not knowing what part to change. Sometimes when I take off slowly from a dead stop it shifts really quickly into o/d by the time I am at 15-20mph. Doesn't matter far as hot/cold but if i accelerate quickly it doesn't seem to do it. I have read it could be the Shift solenoid or TPS.
View 2 RepliesI have 93 cavalier 2.2l will start up and run for 5 or 10 min then start sputtering and then will stop running acts like it has bad gas, but once it does this it will not start for rest of the day will start next morning. I have seen liquid coming out of tail pipe.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
This morning I was at a stop light and my car started to sputter and as I accelerated it drove just fine. Then it happened again at another stop and also while going uphill it sputtered and bogged down. Could it be a bad fuel pump? Or maybe I need a tune up?
View 17 RepliesI have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
Someone mentioned to me this week that my high mount brake light was not working. No big deal, just a burned out bulb I assumed. Well, I replaced the bulbs (two bulbs) and it still does not work. The sockets look fine, no corrosion. The wiring that I can see looks good. I used a volt meter & found I'm getting no juice at the socket . . ? Is there an in line fuse or something else simple I should check. I'm thinking this should be an easy fix & am frustrated I can't figure it out. By the way, my lower brake lights are working fine.
View 3 RepliesI was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
This morning I tried to drive my 2008 Prius and the "check engine" light quickly blinked and the dashboard didn't light up. The monitor did turn on and I could hear the engine running. The monitor showed that the hybrid battery was almost full. While trying to go in reverse, the camera did not work. We just had an oil change done. The 12V battery was replaced almost 2 years ago. The car has almost 150K on it. I also tried tightening the gas cap. It's obviously winter and it snowed last night (in case that might be a factor).
View 19 RepliesI recently replaced a burnt out left turn signal bulb in my 2002 camry v6 xle. The signal light was blinking quickly. Once replaced problem fixed. Now bulb is not working again and fast flashing is back.
View 2 RepliesSomething strange happened this morning and I can't find anything .
Got out of the car (2007) and locked it with the remote. The alarm light flashed quickly multiple times, almost like something was wrong, door not closed tight, etc. The doors locked, but it would not give me the audible beep that it normally does. Went around and opened and closed all doors and trunk to make sure they were closed tight, and they were.
My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
View 9 RepliesMy Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4w drive. I have two problems that I'm trying to figure out, first problem is that my ABS light comes on, mainly when I quickly hit the gas while turning the wheel(such as passing a car). When I turn the truck off and back on, the light goes off, and stays off till the next time I pass a car or what ever.
Second problem is my cruise control, it sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. I don't know why. One thing that I did notice is that if the cruise isn't working, it'll sometimes start working again after I bring the truck to a full stop.
I get a dtc code C1440 Preasure Transducer Main Primary Signal Faulted.
So I was driving home today, I had some issues a couple of weeks ago with it stalling in the rain, it was raining today. As I was driving, the truck dies and won't restart. It wasn't like it stalled, it was almost like someone shut it off. Then it wouldn't restart, and there is a clicking sound under the dash. I tried the battery pull and nothing. Ended up having it towed home.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 deville (which i never drive) but start up and let run decided to give a BIG problem today. I went to charge my a/c up and when I started it it was running very rough... Last week it did it also but after letting it run it smoothed out but today it stayed same and was actually worse. I drove it around the block and check engine light was flashing and car was sputtering like it didn't want to go. Sputtering out of exhaust and exhaust was getting real hot and giving off smoke from behind tires area. it was actually starting to burn my grass. I don't understand why it would do this all of a sudden. I pulled codes and this is what was there
p01571
u1040
u1064
u1192
The only code that is usually in there is the tcc code and its been for years..
I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
View 9 Replies