I have a 2001 oldsmobile aurora 78,000 miles on original motor. the car misfires , backfires underhood,and excessive gas consumption, also sounds terrible at the rear exhaust. 3.5l motor issue stated after i filled up at cheap gas station.
View 7 RepliesPrius start consuming excessive engine oil.
View 5 RepliesWhat is considered to be excessive oil consumption in regards to the TSB issued by Toyota for the 2.4L engine. Mine is using 2+ quarts per 5000 mile interval. It isn't leaking, so it has to be burning it somehow. It doesn't smoke visibly, but that is a lot of oil IMO (my Harley doesn't use nearly as much).
View 3 RepliesJeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
View 5 RepliesI have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
View 1 RepliesI bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
So I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
I have a 2001 Jetta GL 2.0... For the past could of months I have had a mysterious oil problem. I constantly have to put oil in. I have changed it. Always put in the correct amount, right around 4qts. I have changed the head gasket, no leak there anyways and there still isn't a leak. I checked the exhaust and I'm not burning oil. I am completely stumped. What else could be happening to the oil? I just changed my oil about 1200 miles ago and I have already added another 2qts. That is just insane. I have gotten to the point where I am checking my oil every single time I drive to work and back, daily. I do all my own work and have never once noticed any leaks of any type. Something is sneaking by me though.
View 4 RepliesI'm in the market for a Prius and I read on carcomplaints that the 2010 model has excessive oil consumption issues. When I searched for more info about this issue, it seems that it occurs in the other model years as well. I'm wondering if I should avoid the 2010 model when looking for a used Prius, or if the trend on carcomplaints is incorrect and this issue is no worse on this model year than others. Did Toyota switch to a different piston ring in this year or are they all the same in the gen 3s?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1996 Geo Prizm, with about 126K miles. I bought it last May, at around 120,000 miles and had no problems with it until recently, other than some minor issues with the power steering in November. In November, it started making a squeaking or grinding noise whenever I went around a sharp turn. It turned out that the power steering fluid was slightly low, so I added more and that was the end of that problem. But I also found out that the previous owner had put the wrong kind of power steering fluid in. Starting about 2 weeks ago, the car started making a squeaking or squealing noise. There would be no squeaking when I started the car, but then it would start when I turned. It is only audible when the engine is idling, and I'm not sure if it is squealing at other times, too.
I figured it was probably one of the belts, probably the power steering belt. However, I checked it and it seemed to be tight enough and did not appear cracked or glazed. A friend of mine who knows much more about cars than I do also checked the power steering, alternator, and A/C compressor pumps for me, and he said they seemed fine. About the same time the squeaking started, I noticed the car seemed to be burning a lot more fuel than usual. I have filled up the gas tank twice since then. Typically, throughout this winter, the car has gotten 33-36 miles per gallon. But on the last tank, it only got 25 MPG and it got 29 MPG on the tank before that. There has been no change in my driving habits to explain this. The engine also sounds slightly rough when it is idling, almost like a diesel engine, but no louder than the car usually sounds. My friend who checked the belts listened to it when it was idling, and he thought he heard a slight knocking sound, which I heard too.
I noticed no decline in performance: the car accelerates just as quickly as ever, and performs the way it always has. The power steering seems to function just fine, despite the squeaking. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with the timing belt, and that might explain both the squeaking and the increased fuel burn. But I looked online at a few websites, and it sounds like timing belts usually don't show any symptoms when they are wearing out, they usually just fail without much warning. Also, when I bought the car, the previous owner said the timing belt was replaced at around 90K, so it should be fine for a while. I am at a loss as to what might be wrong with the car. I wonder if the squeaking and the increased fuel burn are caused by the same problem, or if there might be separate problems causing each.
Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occasional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct solenoids. Also they offer a set of 8 coils at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. 2006 f150 5.4 miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with 103,000 miles. I'm receiving the codes P0300B Misfire and P0440B Evap Emission.
I use Premium Unleaded gas (not at a cheap station) so I don't think it's the gas causing the misfire code P0300B. Also I've put on a new gas cap but I still get the Evap Emission code P0440B.
Working on a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with these 2 codes?
Can swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 V6. Last Thursday, I started it cold, drove it about 500 feet, and it just stalled. I didn't lose power or anything, it just stalled; I did lose power steering though. Something that may work is that the battery light came on and started flashing when the car stalled, and continued to flash when i attempted to start it.
The car cranks, it just never turns over. I do not lose power like the battery is draining when I attempt to start it (The dummy panel shows the battery dropping to 11.7V, and returning to 11.9/12V when I stop trying to turn it over. I can do this for 15 seconds at a time (It automatically stops trying to turn after 15 seconds) for a long time, and the battery never drains, so it is as if it is charging as I am trying to turn it over. (Not sure if that is important to note or not).
I had it towed home, did nothing to it other than try and start it (which didn't work). Let it sit the weekend, and it started with no issues Monday. Drove it to work, almost made it, and the same thing happened. Same exact thing, battery light came on and started flashing, and the car stalled. Had it towed back again, and it hasn't started since.
I have checked all fuses and relays, nothing shows signs of failure there.
When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump getting power also.
Here is what has happened to the car in the past year (excuse me if too much detail is included):
Replaced the Alternator
Replaced the Starter
Replaced all break lines
Replaced all brake pads, rotors, calipers, bearing/hub
Replaced fuel line
I have not tested the fuel pressure, because I do not have a tool to do so.
I have a 97 Aurora and I have had no other electrical or major issues with the car. However randomly the blower goes on and off. It does it on all the settings, and whether it is on AC or heat. It is really starting to bug me but its almost time to put it away for the winter and I would like to have it ready for "constant" cold AC this spring. I have tried tapping on the motor and it makes no difference. The temp flashes on the climate control all the time but it has always done this. What the random on/off issue could be? It is not throwing any body codes, just the usual o2 sensor in the engine.
View 4 RepliesHow/Where do I check the Fuel Pressure on my 95 Aurora?
How much fuel pressure is needed to start and then for the engine to run normally?
95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
View 1 RepliesI drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to get my hands on a belt routing diagram of a 95 aurora. I can't seem to figure it out. If you know of a link where I can get a visual ...
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