Aurora :: Crankshaft Position Sensors Replacement
Jan 10, 2013
Replacing the crankshaft position sensors on the 95-99 aurora? very difficult?
View 14 RepliesReplacing the crankshaft position sensors on the 95-99 aurora? very difficult?
View 14 RepliesAfter heavy rain yesterday my 2005 2.7 Santa fe wouldn't start today. Had it towed to nearby dealer. The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. He claims its melted to the block and oil pan needs to be dropped to remove it.
View 5 RepliesI need to replace the crankshaft position sensor. On my 2002 Grand Caravan Sport 3.3liter. Where it is in laymans terms.
Is it better to approach from the underside Or from the hood side? I will know it when I see it but I haven't seen it yet!!
Looking for a diagram of the locations of the oxygen sensors on this vehicle, I am getting miss information from all around saying it has anywhere from 2-4 oxygen sensors and i think it has 3 am i right? two in the front behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold, and 1 somewhere by the catyaltic converter. There isn't a whole lot of manuals out there for these cars.4.0 ltr engine...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with over 300k miles. I recently started getting the crankshaft/cam position code P0016. The car is driving fine, but it does burn about a quart of oil every 800 miles. It looks like a lower mileage engine can be had for about $500-600 including freight. I'm thinking my best option is probably to swap out the engine. I saw our local resident expert Wong suggested replacing the transaxle too when doing an engine replacement since it does not add any significant labor and tends to be a more common source of problems than the engine. I'm not sure how much doing that would add to the bottom line.
View 8 Replies2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
View 1 RepliesMy car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
Looking for a picture or description where this sensor is located? I assume very close to the crank pulley, but I'm hoping I will not need to remove the crank pulley to gain access to this sensor. I have a 2011 Sonata, 2.4L engine.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
View 2 Replies2002 My friend's 2.7L sante fe crankshaft position sensor went bad and I went to replace it. Removed bolt, it was stuck fast, tried to pry out and it broke off leaving the last 1/2 inch stuck in block. Tried drilling a hole in it and using a screw to get it out but no luck. Afraid to keep drilling that I might damage something behind it. How to get it out?
View 9 RepliesI got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. [URL] ... . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
View 19 RepliesMy son has a 2007 jeep compass 2.4l engine. He needs to change the crankshaft position sensor. Where to find it? He got a pic from autozone but you can't tell where it is on the engine.
View 7 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
View 19 Replies33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
Throwing codes here.... been seeing the P1347 consistently with the P0011 and P1143 intermittent.
I have checked the resistance of the camshaft adjustment valve resistance and found them to both be around 9 Ohm (spec is 10-18 Ohm).
I checked the voltage to both camshaft position sensors and they are in spec at 4.9 Volts
I swapped the camshaft position sensors to see if the code would follow the sensor but it did not so it is directly related to the intake camshaft.
It is looking like there is a timing issue either related to the adjustment valves going or possibly some contamination preventing them from working properly. They are both out of spec in terms of resistance which is odd that they would both go at the same time but possible.
The oil inside the camshaft position sensors is no good I cleaned it all out when I swapped the sensors but no change. These will have to be replaced.
Car has 125k on it so it could be due for timing chains but I want to rule out anything else first.
My car will not start intermittently and I've narrowed it down to these sensors and want to replace them ASAP. How to replace it and it was about a 10 minute job.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.
I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.
Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.
And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.
How difficult is it to replace the crank position sensor? It looks pretty tucked away at the front of the engine. Just wondering how much time I should put aside for this job.
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