Aurora :: 98 / Change Rod And Main Bearings For A 4.0 Litre Northstar Engine?
Sep 18, 2015
How do I change rod and main bearings for a 4.0 litre Northstar engine?
View 1 RepliesHow do I change rod and main bearings for a 4.0 litre Northstar engine?
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to replace the main bearings in a 2001 Escape 3.0 with the engine in the vehicle?
View 1 RepliesVW has issued a TB (technical bulletin) with information about the camshaft on the 4.2 liter V8 engine. The gist of the TB is as follows:
The camshaft adjustment is hydraulically actuated and controlled by the engine oil pressure. If the vehicle has been sitting, with the engine turned off for a period of time, the oil accumulation inside the camshaft adjusters partially bleeds off and the oil flows back into the oil sump.
To ensure an efficient camshaft adjustment after an engine cold start, the oil pressure inside the camshaft adjusters must be built up as quickly as possible. During this time a slight rattle or knocking noise may be audible. This noise is normal at engine start and will last until the oil pressure is fully reinstated.
I've had 2 Priuses 2010 lose the oil change door from the main protective panel under the car. Many have posted about this design flaw. My question is: Does the 2015 Prius also have this potential problem? I remember reading forum posts about the TSB regarding this issue on the 2010 which I was too late to take advantage of. I would rather address this now before my warranty expires on my 2015.
View 8 Replies95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
View 1 RepliesLooking for a diagram on 1997 S10, 2.2 timing settings? If timing is off, will the engine sound as if the bearings are knocking somewhat? I installed a new crankshaft and new bearings. Also do the ignition coils usually go bad? Should the #1 cylinder be on the compression stroke?
View 4 RepliesSmall coolant leak on drivers side when car sits over night. Car has 3.5L engine with 118000 miles. Purchased used a few months ago. Just started leaking a week or so ago. Dash came on with low coolant level. Added a small amount of coolant ( at the add coolant level line) and then started noticing small amounts of coolant under car in the mornings.
View 3 RepliesWe are at a point where we need to install the tensioner for the chain, but the harness itself can't be moved enough. We may wind up removing the intake again to do so. Any easier methods?
Also under the intake at the back I noticed what appears like an open ended vacuum line after some small check valve... I don't recall it attaching to anything during tear down... Looking for vacuum diagram of the 2.4?
My wife noticed a puddle of oil on the garage floor when I left the other night and unfortunately, it is coming from my 2002 Prius. I jacked it up today and found the oil was NOT dripping down from the side of the engine, but appeared to be coming out of the hole in the casting between the engine and the transmission. This looks to me like a leak on the main seal on the rear of the engine.
View 5 RepliesSo my remote and main key got into a washing machine...Put new batteries in it but no go. Car does not start with either main key or valet. When I unlock the driver side door with either key, engine does not start and alarm goes off immediately. From searching the forums I assume I have 15 seconds from opening door and I am well within 15 seconds. Remote should not be necessary as transponder used to validating key is a passive RFID in the key part.
Dealership so far has been unuseful. I told them I can't start the car and they said yeah come in and we'll program you a new remote. When I got there (by motorcycle) they told me they need the car. It's a 2000 Passat GLX V6.
Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
I have been having an issue which I can't get to understand the millage has gone down and there,' a check light on the main meter i tried the google translator but that only says call the car company...
View 1 RepliesNewly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
I noticed oil on my garage floor from my 2002 Honda Accord V6 and thought the dealer hadn't tightened the oil pan bolt. The dealer charged me to diagnose that the dripping oil came from a main bearing cap side bolt. It seems the bolt threads, aren't sealed at the factory and to fix the problem the dealer will remove the bolt, clean it, then apply Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket to the threads and washer contact area. I have to leave the car for 24 hrs for the sealer to dry before staring the engine. Bolt to be removed, cleaned, sealed and replaced. Is this a recall item?
View 12 RepliesThe engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
View 15 RepliesMy 2003 Tribute has started squeaking. Seems to come from the main belt on the left side of the engine. Faint at idle, but gets somewhat louder as the rpms go up. What is the accepted protocol for dealing with this? How do I understand if the belt needs replacing, or if something is out of alignment? BTW, as best as I can see/feel it, the belt itself is in OK shape. Is there some kind of lube? (Though it's a smooth belt, so that might not be smart ...)
View 6 RepliesMy Car: 1989 Plymouth Colt Hatchback (similar to Mitsubushi Mirage); 4 cyl. 1.5 liter fuel injection; 93,000 miles.
Problem: Check engine light comes on & main relay clicks on & off when starting the engine cold. Holding down the gas & keeping the engine RPM's up keeps it from stalling out until the engine warms up. After that, everything is fine.
The problem isn't in the main relay, because we've tried replacing that, and it's okay. Either the engine control computer or something else is sending the main relay a signal to shut down. We know that the engine control computer has gotten wet, and there has been some corrosion there. That's clearly not good, and we're now protecting the computer from moisture, but is that really the problem?
My mechanic thinks that the processor in the computer that controls only the cold starting sequence is no good, and that the only thing to do is get a new computer (if that's even possible). Is it possible that an engine sensor of some kind is not working properly when it's cold, and is sending either the main relay or the computer a signal to shut down the engine?
I haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesChanging out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
View 1 RepliesCan swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
View 5 Replies