Aurora :: 97 Stalled At Stops And Also Running Rough
Oct 29, 2008
A friend of mine got this car cheap because it stalled at stops. It also ran rough. The fuel guage would go from empty to full. Yesterday the car stalled out and wouldn't restart for an hour or so and even then it started hard. I drove it home for her but it barley made it. I changed the fuel pump because the dealer that sold it thought that might be it.
It started and ran rough like before after installing the new fuel pump.... Then it stalled and wont start. It fires but it still wont start. If I step on the accelerator it backfires a little but still no start. I checked for spark at the plugs in the front and they all have spark but its hard to tell if its a regular pattern or not. So its getting fuel to the fuel rail and at least some spark but it wont start.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I was towing a trailer about 600 miles truck was running great, pulled in for fuel and truck was running rough, refueled and was on my way then when going down a hill (Idle) it just quit, had to tow remaining 200 miles.
After reading the forums I replaced the ICR (ICR screen was damaged) Truck now starts but its very loud and missing like crazy. and surges if i give it a little gas. codes 0268, 0281, 2284, 2288 I also replaced the ICP.
should I replace the injectors? what causes this?
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My main top water hose burst. I replaced it. Car ran hot. Replaced the thermostat, coolant sensor, and 12 volt relay fuses for primary and secondary fans. Still ran hot. Fans not coming on. I tested fans in service mode by paper clip to F and G in the diagnostic scan box. Fans came on, so no blowed motors. Got desperate, so ran a toggle switch to primary fan, so fan would run while I drive. Still, when the car gets hot, after about 5 miles of regular driving, the car huckabucks, and cuts off at slow downs and stops. Really bad in the middle of light intersections.
1992 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cyl ....
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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I have a recently purchased 2000 ford ranger 4X4 with approx. 130,000 miles on a 3.0L. When I bought the truck, it was running rough while in gear at idle, after first putting it in gear, and when coming to stops, then it quit running all together. I started by replacing plugs, wires, and ignition module. I finally got it to fire up after that, but instantly noticed the tell tale white smoke from the exhaust. Needless to say, my oil looked like chocolate milk. Rather than having the heads machined and checked, I opted to purchase a new set of cylinder heads from Dover cylinder head.
I got those on this week and she fired right up. After a few oil changes to eliminate the residual coolant from the oil passages, she still starts and runs fine, although the idle is a bit rough while in park. When I place it in gear the idle gets a little rougher. After a quick trip down the road, I'm noticing a pretty solid shudder when coming to a stop, almost like it's stuck in 2nd gear, but I can't really tell for sure. Seems to shift fine going up through the gears, but coming down is when the issue is.
I believe I'm dealing with two separate issues, one being the rough idle upon startup that doesn't seem to go away, and two being the rougher idle upon stopping. I've read everything from EGR valve, idle air control valve, low fuel pressure, and a laundry list of other things, and I just don't want to start throwing money away chasing my tail.
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I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
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Someone ran me into a curb and a puddle last night and my car stalled just at the end of the puddle. I pushed it and let it sit for two hours and it tried to crank but wouldn't.
This morning at 8 I cranked it and it started up and immediately shut off. It's still trying but not turning over. I've dried the plug wires, connections, and battery terminals. I even took the distributor cap off and it looked dry. I've not lost any oil since and the oil looks fine. I have a Cold Air Intake on it and removed the pipe from the engine and it looks dry as a bone. Does this sound like hudrolock? Either way what can I do next?
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Yesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
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My v4 99'accord 4cyl with 152K miles had stalled a few months back.*the idle was rough/uneven.. *in stop-and-go traffic sometimes when i would hit the gas pedal, engine would almost skip a beat or two, and sometimes stall..
The car shop changed the ignition switch..they cleaned out the EGR valve which had plenty of carbon build up.after cleaning out the EGR valve the idle was much better.. But over time the idle has gotten worse. i fear another stall is around the corner. Is the EGR valve bad?
Another thing i noticed while test driving in the parking lot, i stop and start again by applying low but uniform pressure on the gas,the engine picks up, then drops, and then picks up and drops a few times before the car finally picks up speed..
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I took my car to the dealer two days ago. The idle was rough, it stall twice and I had a CEL.. They change two high pressure fuel sensor and now the car run fine.
But now I hear a disturbing whistle sound when accelerating. The sound is audible from inside the car but louder when the window are down. This is my third turbo car and this sound as no comparison to the sweet whistle of my 1.8T for example.
I opened the hood to check if something was loose, in fact the main clamp from the inlet pipe to the engine cover was loose so I remove the engine cover assembly to check if the tech didn't forgot something else. Everything looked fine, I put everything back together and I hearing this annoying whistle again...
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Did my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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I have a 2007 F550 with a 6.0. Truck started running real rough and stalled. I was able to start it back up after a bit but within a few blocks it did the same thing. Was very similar to problems I had with clogged fuel fuel filters before I changed the tank to a plastic one. I pulled the filter and housing on the rail and cleaned and replaced the filter. There was no debris in there. Changed the filter on top of the engine too. Cycled the key 5-6 times. I could hear the pump running but the filter housing on top of the engine did not fill up; all I saw was a very little bubbling and gurgling sound.
I opened the drain on the rail filter housing and a little fuel came out but not as much as it should have. Cap is tight, don't see where I could be sucking air. I'm thinking the pump may be shot? Only other thought I had was maybe I switched the plugs on the housing on the rail but I really don't think I did. There are 2 plugs on the right hand side. Black plug is plugged into the lower position parallel to the ground while the gray plug is in the higher position.
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My wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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Recently my wife took her car to work. While driving on the highway the car all of a sudden quit responding to pushing on the gas. As if the pedal had no affect at all. The electrical was still in tact as my wife pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. Before I could reach her to pick her up she had started it again and it started right up no hesitation at all. Upon dropping her off at work I came back and it started right away and I drove it to her work and she then drove it home at the end of the day with not problems. It sat in our garage for a few days and I decided to take it out to see what happens for myself. I drove it for a full day stated right up every time and it wasn't until the second day I drove it around that it did the same thing to me. Gas pedal had not response. All electrical seemed operational, still had power steering and the dash was lit. I pulled over then waited a few minutes and it fired right up and I was on my way. Wondered if its the fuel pump and how I could test that out. As I said is starts right up every time with no hesitation. Also I have fuel pressure tested it and it shows a 60 the during idle.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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I have a 99 Dodge Stratus 4 cyl 2.4L, automatic.
It has been idling rough for a few months now. It feels just like it is misfiring. Tach confirms quick dip in rpm then return to normal idle. It has never actually stalled, just a quick rpm dip and subsequent shuddering, then recovers for a few seconds.
Also runs very rough, at 47-48 mph under light "cruising" load. Sounds crazy, but it does (did, see below) not happen at 45 or 50, just in the 47-48 mph range. Again, it feels like bad misfiring, with the car losing a lot of power and shuddering until I accelerate/decelerate away from this speed range.
NOW, over the last few days, the rough riding has gotten a lot worse, and occurs at all speeds. It is worse under load (mild acceleration, hills). Still feels like misfiring. Loss of power makes it hard to maintain speed up hills, at any speed. Also, today for the first time in its life the car backfired while trying to accelerate up a hill from a stop, at a speed of about 15 mph.
When idling, I can occasionally smell gas.
So, the coils are 2 years old, spark plug wires are 2 years old, spark plugs are 2 weeks old and air filter is 4 days old. Check engine light is NOT on and there are no error codes as of yesterday. Fluids are all good, except I am about the kick the stupid thing until it bleeds. Parts store suggested Idle Air Control Valve, but I am dubious, as this now happens at all speed.
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