Aurora :: 97 - No Electrical Power / Remote Doesn't Work
May 16, 2010
The remote doesn't work. The car key doesn't work on the car lock, tried the coat hanger to pull the lock, that didn't work either. It seems the car has no electrical power.
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I have a 2005 Pruis and the remote entry does not work. Changed the battery in the remote and I still have to put the remote key in slot to start the car. Been working fine for ten years.
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I don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
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1995 Aurora Remote entry fails. Keys were in pocket and I got wet while surf fishing... It worked last night coming home but this morning it fails to open doors or trunk.. I checked batteries,, 3 volts each... Did I short out the unit?? How can I check that out and if so, other than a dealer where can I find a new remote entry device...What has to be done to the unit to tune it to my car..
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Vehicle will not respond to anything. Remote key access wont work. No clicking or starter movement. No lights, radio, etc. Not the battery.
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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The power outlet under the dashboard doesn't work. The one in the console does work. Question? Where are the power outlet fuses located and how many?
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I have a 2005 camry le, but just now the power outlet doesnt work. I have checked multiple items in both the outlets, but none of them work. I checked the fuses, but they all look fine. The items work in other cars, just not this camry.
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My red triangle light came on! and the PS light came on the square screen and my power steering is in the dumps (doesn't work).
Where would be the first place to check? could it possibly be the accessory belt that came off/broke? is it hard to access/replace that?
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I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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So I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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I just replaced my Wiper motor last week and noticed something strange. For the last year or so when I turn on the key to start the truck, once in a while my radio, gauges, and other electricals such as windows wouldn't work for a bit, anywhere from a couple seconds to maybe as much as a couple minutes. Since my wiper motor was on the fritz, I pulled the fuse and the radio,gauges,ect. wouldn't work until the WTS light went out, then everything worked just fine, even after I started the truck and the glow plugs come back on.Since I replaced the motor everything works as soon as i turn the key. Coincidence? Or could one of the internal relays on the motor being stuck cause that?
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The driver side door doesn't lock unlock from the remote usually. But it does work sometimes. I think the remote battery might not be the problem, because the other doors open and close fine. Could i repair it myself?
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The PRIUS Remote Start turns off as soon as you open the car door. Then you have to turn on the car again.
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So when leaving the gym tonight, I go to unlock my car with the remote and it beeps, but nothing unlocks......everything is clicking like it's unlocking (doors, gas cap, etc) but it won't unlock. So I press and hold the unlock button to roll down my windows, reach in, open the door from the inside and it opens, starts and everything works.
Can this be from my rear bumper getting hit the other day (would the rear bumper sensor getting damaged have anything to do with this)?
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'13 Accord Sport4k miles
These frigid WI temps are horrible. I did end up washing my car last weekend because it was full of salt. This morning I pressed the lock on my remote 2 times, nothing happened. Normally the horn sounds off once and the lights flash. I seen the lights flash, but there was no sound coming from the horn..........frozen locks? I came home after work and tried it again. Works fine now.
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We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
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My 95 aurora 4.0 lost all power to the fuel pump and at relay. what could be my problem. Is there a fuel shut off ?
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