Aurora :: 96 Just Cranking And Wouldn't Fire
Mar 26, 2010
I drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
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I just bought this car... today... ran great until I got a few exits from my apartment (I think the car knew I had my hopes up for successfully making it home) and all of a sudden the car shut down. There was no smoking, shuddering, or weird scents of any kind. Had my girlfriend following me and she said she didn't see or smell anything... the oil level is good, pretty clean... coolant is clean and pink... timing belt was just done about 5k ago... but she cranks and stumbles a little but that's about it. Battery died from repetitive attempts at starting and now I think that old girl needs to be replaced... but does this sound like a crank position sensor issue like I'm guessing? or possibly cam position sensor? Also might add that the dipstick and oil cap hole had a little smoke coming out of it when I pulled it to check the oil situation... B5 1.8T wagon
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
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How long does it take to fire up the engine?Just got mine running today and I'm new to 6.0. It took about 4 seconds the first time, and considering this was a used engine I figured that was very fast to fire up. However, subsequent starts which I had expected to be less cranking are also taking about 3-4 seconds. I haven't had any experience with an oil actuated injection so maybe this is typical for the design?
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Can swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
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I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 V6. Last Thursday, I started it cold, drove it about 500 feet, and it just stalled. I didn't lose power or anything, it just stalled; I did lose power steering though. Something that may work is that the battery light came on and started flashing when the car stalled, and continued to flash when i attempted to start it.
The car cranks, it just never turns over. I do not lose power like the battery is draining when I attempt to start it (The dummy panel shows the battery dropping to 11.7V, and returning to 11.9/12V when I stop trying to turn it over. I can do this for 15 seconds at a time (It automatically stops trying to turn after 15 seconds) for a long time, and the battery never drains, so it is as if it is charging as I am trying to turn it over. (Not sure if that is important to note or not).
I had it towed home, did nothing to it other than try and start it (which didn't work). Let it sit the weekend, and it started with no issues Monday. Drove it to work, almost made it, and the same thing happened. Same exact thing, battery light came on and started flashing, and the car stalled. Had it towed back again, and it hasn't started since.
I have checked all fuses and relays, nothing shows signs of failure there.
When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump getting power also.
Here is what has happened to the car in the past year (excuse me if too much detail is included):
Replaced the Alternator
Replaced the Starter
Replaced all break lines
Replaced all brake pads, rotors, calipers, bearing/hub
Replaced fuel line
I have not tested the fuel pressure, because I do not have a tool to do so.
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I have a 97 Aurora and I have had no other electrical or major issues with the car. However randomly the blower goes on and off. It does it on all the settings, and whether it is on AC or heat. It is really starting to bug me but its almost time to put it away for the winter and I would like to have it ready for "constant" cold AC this spring. I have tried tapping on the motor and it makes no difference. The temp flashes on the climate control all the time but it has always done this. What the random on/off issue could be? It is not throwing any body codes, just the usual o2 sensor in the engine.
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How/Where do I check the Fuel Pressure on my 95 Aurora?
How much fuel pressure is needed to start and then for the engine to run normally?
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95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
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I'm trying to get my hands on a belt routing diagram of a 95 aurora. I can't seem to figure it out. If you know of a link where I can get a visual ...
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Just had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
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our mechanic told us we had bad belts in our tires, and we should replace them. So we did. Over $500 later, the car still wobbles. It only happens on acceleration, and it starts somewhere around 40 mph, gets worse as I drive faster, and then around 55 mph it goes away. It does not happen on deceleration. We've seen posts on other pages where people have replaced CV joints, both front wheel bearings, both axles, tie rods, control arm bushings... but that doesn't solve the problem.
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My car was subject to flood waters, August 19th 2011. The waters flooded the interior of the car and submerged the OBD I. When the flood waters receeded, I was able to turn over the car and drive it. After removing the car from the flood waters, parked it in higher place and used shop-vac to suck out water.
Passenger seat functioned -ok
heater-ok
sun/moon roof - ok
battery - ok but was shorting out
htd seats - not ok
drivers seat - not ok: seat will not move for/aft and seat will not decl/recl.
water did get into the OBD, yet, devices that work off OBD seem to work fine.
Q: Would be be true that the OBD I is still salvagable, or should I get rid of it? 1995 Olds Aurora
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Replacing the crankshaft position sensors on the 95-99 aurora? very difficult?
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Heater works only on the passenger side, door,floor, defrost, dash. driver side blows out cold air from door, floor, defrost, dash. what would cause half the car to blow hot air and the other half to blow cold air?
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