Aurora :: 95 OBD1 - Engine Lights Comes On
Jan 26, 2011
95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
View 1 Replies95 Aurora, engine light comes on . I looked under the dashboard and can't seem to locate the plug for the reader. ALSO how do I read codes out of an OBD1??
View 1 RepliesMy parking lights go on and off when the car is off. I had problems with the headlights flashing about 3 years ago and fixed it with spaying contact cleaner and air in the multi function switch and that fixed that. I tried the same thing several times to try and fix the blinking tail lights but doesn't work. I just replaced the (LCM) lamp control module but still does it. Somebody told me today that it could be the security module. I'm thinking that the multi-function switch needs to be replaced. Is there a fuse or a way to shut down the (LCM) and just turn the lights on and off manually?
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 850 Turbo that I've been having a low boost (5-6psi) issue since changing the PCV about a year ago. Prior to changing the PCV it would boost most of the white in the gauge (have since installed an actual gauge). I installed a basic AF gauge and it ALWAYS reads rich (i suppose its better then lean right). I've changed the MAF, EBC, plugs, front O2 and vacuum lines.
The OBD1 reads it as a bad MAF, but I doubt that's it, i know sometimes issues are shown as one thing when its something along that line. I've installed a manual boost controller and set it to 13psi (performance computer installed by previous owner so its ok) but the engine still feel s like its running out of "OOMPH". Did a smoke test and couldn't find any leaks in the vacuum system.
E-150, 5.8/351
The Haynes manual says not to disconnect battery (for whatever amount of time) to clear codes because it also clears the keep alive memory forcing the computer to relearn.
What is the correct way to clear codes? The manual says talks about jumping the OBD connectors some way but I cannot tell what is showing in the picture.
How do I change rod and main bearings for a 4.0 litre Northstar engine?
View 1 RepliesSmall coolant leak on drivers side when car sits over night. Car has 3.5L engine with 118000 miles. Purchased used a few months ago. Just started leaking a week or so ago. Dash came on with low coolant level. Added a small amount of coolant ( at the add coolant level line) and then started noticing small amounts of coolant under car in the mornings.
View 3 RepliesI just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
View 4 RepliesCan swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 V6. Last Thursday, I started it cold, drove it about 500 feet, and it just stalled. I didn't lose power or anything, it just stalled; I did lose power steering though. Something that may work is that the battery light came on and started flashing when the car stalled, and continued to flash when i attempted to start it.
The car cranks, it just never turns over. I do not lose power like the battery is draining when I attempt to start it (The dummy panel shows the battery dropping to 11.7V, and returning to 11.9/12V when I stop trying to turn it over. I can do this for 15 seconds at a time (It automatically stops trying to turn after 15 seconds) for a long time, and the battery never drains, so it is as if it is charging as I am trying to turn it over. (Not sure if that is important to note or not).
I had it towed home, did nothing to it other than try and start it (which didn't work). Let it sit the weekend, and it started with no issues Monday. Drove it to work, almost made it, and the same thing happened. Same exact thing, battery light came on and started flashing, and the car stalled. Had it towed back again, and it hasn't started since.
I have checked all fuses and relays, nothing shows signs of failure there.
When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump getting power also.
Here is what has happened to the car in the past year (excuse me if too much detail is included):
Replaced the Alternator
Replaced the Starter
Replaced all break lines
Replaced all brake pads, rotors, calipers, bearing/hub
Replaced fuel line
I have not tested the fuel pressure, because I do not have a tool to do so.
I have a 97 Aurora and I have had no other electrical or major issues with the car. However randomly the blower goes on and off. It does it on all the settings, and whether it is on AC or heat. It is really starting to bug me but its almost time to put it away for the winter and I would like to have it ready for "constant" cold AC this spring. I have tried tapping on the motor and it makes no difference. The temp flashes on the climate control all the time but it has always done this. What the random on/off issue could be? It is not throwing any body codes, just the usual o2 sensor in the engine.
View 4 RepliesHow/Where do I check the Fuel Pressure on my 95 Aurora?
How much fuel pressure is needed to start and then for the engine to run normally?
I drove my Aurora 300 miles one morning and when I arrived home it was running fine. I shut it off and went in the house and after 10 mins, went to leave again. It just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. I assumed it was the fuel pump and upon pricing one out, decided to wait and just plated another car. The Aurora sat all winter and now with the weather a little nicer, decided to try and fire it up last week. It cranked for a few seconds and there was a small explosion under the silver cover plate on the motor. It sounded like a backfire. It did it 2 more times and I stopped trying. It seemed to be coming from the intake and the foam on the under side of that silver plate is singed on the side by the power steering resovoir. Is there something there that could be pooched? Could it still be a fuel pump being that there is something exploding there? Could it be a fuel rail issue? I have read that there have been recalls. And where is this fuel pressure regulator?
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to get my hands on a belt routing diagram of a 95 aurora. I can't seem to figure it out. If you know of a link where I can get a visual ...
View 4 RepliesJust had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
our mechanic told us we had bad belts in our tires, and we should replace them. So we did. Over $500 later, the car still wobbles. It only happens on acceleration, and it starts somewhere around 40 mph, gets worse as I drive faster, and then around 55 mph it goes away. It does not happen on deceleration. We've seen posts on other pages where people have replaced CV joints, both front wheel bearings, both axles, tie rods, control arm bushings... but that doesn't solve the problem.
View 1 RepliesMy car was subject to flood waters, August 19th 2011. The waters flooded the interior of the car and submerged the OBD I. When the flood waters receeded, I was able to turn over the car and drive it. After removing the car from the flood waters, parked it in higher place and used shop-vac to suck out water.
Passenger seat functioned -ok
heater-ok
sun/moon roof - ok
battery - ok but was shorting out
htd seats - not ok
drivers seat - not ok: seat will not move for/aft and seat will not decl/recl.
water did get into the OBD, yet, devices that work off OBD seem to work fine.
Q: Would be be true that the OBD I is still salvagable, or should I get rid of it? 1995 Olds Aurora
Replacing the crankshaft position sensors on the 95-99 aurora? very difficult?
View 14 RepliesHeater works only on the passenger side, door,floor, defrost, dash. driver side blows out cold air from door, floor, defrost, dash. what would cause half the car to blow hot air and the other half to blow cold air?
View 2 RepliesI just bought this problem child and I am having som trouble finding out why when you put it into Reverse it slams into gear hard enough that the nose dives down. I cant figure out why. Then RPMS are always low like 800 and it acts like its at 2500. It slamms that hard.
The 2nd issue is when I push the brakes there is a vaccum sound from under the dash and the brake pedal gets hard and the car does not stop well. I assume it is the brake booster but I have not tore the dash appart yet.. The RPMS dont drop out when the vaccum leak starts and thats what confuses me.
A friend of mine got this car cheap because it stalled at stops. It also ran rough. The fuel guage would go from empty to full. Yesterday the car stalled out and wouldn't restart for an hour or so and even then it started hard. I drove it home for her but it barley made it. I changed the fuel pump because the dealer that sold it thought that might be it.
It started and ran rough like before after installing the new fuel pump.... Then it stalled and wont start. It fires but it still wont start. If I step on the accelerator it backfires a little but still no start. I checked for spark at the plugs in the front and they all have spark but its hard to tell if its a regular pattern or not. So its getting fuel to the fuel rail and at least some spark but it wont start.
I cannot control the windows, locks, trunk or gas release from my 2001 Aurora. The fuses are under the back seat, which I took out. I checked the Drivers door module and the fuse is fine.
View 1 Replies