Aurora :: 2001 - Wobbles Only On Acceleration At About 40 MPH
Aug 31, 2011
our mechanic told us we had bad belts in our tires, and we should replace them. So we did. Over $500 later, the car still wobbles. It only happens on acceleration, and it starts somewhere around 40 mph, gets worse as I drive faster, and then around 55 mph it goes away. It does not happen on deceleration. We've seen posts on other pages where people have replaced CV joints, both front wheel bearings, both axles, tie rods, control arm bushings... but that doesn't solve the problem.
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I have a 96 aurora that has been giving me alot of problems. It started with the car being real hard to start and very sluggish upon acceleration. I had an engine code of 0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) I had a full tune up as well as an intake manifold gasket done. This seemed to fix the problem for a short time. The problem then started again. this time i was told that it was a fuel pump so i went ahead and changed that as well. Again this fixed the problems for a short time. Now i am having the same problem again. I now have 2 engine codes 0300 as well as 0151(bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor) This started after it rained and i notice the problem always seems to be a little worse when its wet out. Also the car is really only hard to start when it has sat for awhile. m If i drive it and come back 5 minutes later it will start right up though it still idels really rough and has no acceleration. Can the o2 sensor be causing the misfires and if so will that make it hard to start. Also if i changed the fuel pressure regulator about a year ago.
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Can swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
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I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 V6. Last Thursday, I started it cold, drove it about 500 feet, and it just stalled. I didn't lose power or anything, it just stalled; I did lose power steering though. Something that may work is that the battery light came on and started flashing when the car stalled, and continued to flash when i attempted to start it.
The car cranks, it just never turns over. I do not lose power like the battery is draining when I attempt to start it (The dummy panel shows the battery dropping to 11.7V, and returning to 11.9/12V when I stop trying to turn it over. I can do this for 15 seconds at a time (It automatically stops trying to turn after 15 seconds) for a long time, and the battery never drains, so it is as if it is charging as I am trying to turn it over. (Not sure if that is important to note or not).
I had it towed home, did nothing to it other than try and start it (which didn't work). Let it sit the weekend, and it started with no issues Monday. Drove it to work, almost made it, and the same thing happened. Same exact thing, battery light came on and started flashing, and the car stalled. Had it towed back again, and it hasn't started since.
I have checked all fuses and relays, nothing shows signs of failure there.
When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump getting power also.
Here is what has happened to the car in the past year (excuse me if too much detail is included):
Replaced the Alternator
Replaced the Starter
Replaced all break lines
Replaced all brake pads, rotors, calipers, bearing/hub
Replaced fuel line
I have not tested the fuel pressure, because I do not have a tool to do so.
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Just had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
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I cannot control the windows, locks, trunk or gas release from my 2001 Aurora. The fuses are under the back seat, which I took out. I checked the Drivers door module and the fuse is fine.
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Everything in my 2001 Aurora runs/work fine - 2 days ago however, without a warning, the power locks and doors went out. What this might be ? I checked fuses and relays but not circuit breakers. Is faulty wiring more the likely the culprit ? All other electrical systems are fine.
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I have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
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Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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Brake issue I am facing. Last year maybe 13 months ago i changed my front rotors along with new brake pads. (centric rotors and hawks ceramic pads on both the fronts). Now after 11000 miles my cars has same issue that i had a year ago. Which is when i brake the steering wobbles. last year the mechanic said it was due to warped rotors, so we replaced everything cuz he said it was too bad to resurface it. Now after 11k miles same problem. And the local tune up shop said my brake fluid is low as well. My two younger sibling drive this car as well .
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1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
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My Buick started wobbling during accelerating a few months ago. It only does this from 45 to 55 MPH. If I stay between 45 and 55 it continues to wobble. Slower or faster and it quits. I've had it in the shop 4 times and they can't find the problem. The first shop changed the steering angle sensor but that didn't fix the problem. I took it to another shop. They couldn't find anything wrong. I took it back and they said a tie rod end had some play. They changed that. They did an alignment afterwards. They've also balanced the tires twice during this process. None of this fixed it. I took it back and they couldn't find anything so I ask them to check the motor mounts and they said they are good. They said everything in the front end feels tight. I like my car without the wobble and it only has 79,000 miles on it. How am I going to find out what the problem is?
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As of the last few weeks/month or so, my 2010 Tiguan has been feeling like it wobbles under speeds of 30mph. When I first accelerate it feels like it wobbles, once I hit 30mph the wobbling completely stops. Also, when I'm decelerating (even without pressing the brake) it wobbles as it slowly comes to a stop. I'm not sure what it could be and I have seen all types of different reasons. What it could be? I haven't crashed into anything to bend the rim or anything like that.
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I read posts here about the shimmy/wobble some owners are experiencing with their GTIs and TSIs. I never had it for 10,000 miles on my Golf Sport TSI with standard triptronic. The dealer said they were upgrading my transmission software when I had my free oil change. Now it does wobble and it is very irritating. Does this affect both DSG and Triptronic vehicles? If so, I am prone to believe that the problem lies elsewhere. What do you think?
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I switched my wheels over to the summer tires recently and while the wheel was off I noticed that the entire exhaust system wobbles and moves around. There are several rubber hangers supporting the exhaust and I'm thinking it was designed to move around rather than be rigid.
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What's going on?! When I drive my 2004 volvo xc70 on the freeway, sometimes there is a vertical line pattern cut into the road. These lines cause my car to wobble left and right about two inches! It feels very scary to drive like this at freeway speeds. What's causing this and how do I get it fixed?
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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For the past month or so, I've noticed an unsettled "wobble" of the front end of my 2015 GTI SE PP when backing out of my driveway and turning the steering wheel. It feels like the front end is extra nose-heavy (yes, it's a front wheel drive car- I get it) or like the steering is too boosted and is over steering beyond my inputs. I am now noticing it when I enter a driveway going forward with the front wheels turned.
Tires (the god-awful all-seasons) are at 37psi, alignment should be fine (no potholes, curbs or off-road excursions) on a 4-month old car. No suspension mods yet. I had each side up on jack stands looking for suspension pucks in the front and found none. This is really impacting my enjoyment of the car and what to check. I'll be putting the front up again this weekend to look for any bent suspension pieces or loose parts.
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I noticed that my sun visor when placed on the side where the window is wobbles like crazy on the road. I asked the dealer about it and they said I would have to purchase a new one even though the car is under factory extended warranty.. they said they don't warranty parts used by the customer.. I then told them I never moved the passenger side and when I moved it over to the window it was wobbly too, so it came that way from the factory. They said they will look into it but prob wont get a call back. Its bad when going down the freeway and you hit some small dips in the road.
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Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
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