I cannot control the windows, locks, trunk or gas release from my 2001 Aurora. The fuses are under the back seat, which I took out. I checked the Drivers door module and the fuse is fine.
View 1 RepliesPower door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
View 14 RepliesI just gave my daughter a 97 Aurora for Christmas as her first car. The car is showing signs of electrical problems and I can't locate the problem. When the headlights are turned on manually or are enabled by the twilight sentinel the driver seat controls stop functioning and there is a clicking noise located directly over the instrument display. If the lights or twilight sentinel are turned off the seat controls work except for being able to move the seat forward. The clicking sound that exists with the lights on will stop momentarily if the seat control swithes are manipulated. The seat will not move but the clicking ceases for 30 seconds and returns. Are the headlights and power seat controlled by the same relay, wiring or module? How can I fix this problem? This Christmas gift is looking like a lemon.
View 2 RepliesThe problem I am having with my 2009 Grand Caravan SE is the drivers door controls stopped working. I cant use the power windows locks or door locks and the background light is off also, the front passenger side and middle row locks etc work. On the driver door the only things that work are the 2 back vent windows.
View 6 RepliesI have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
View 4 RepliesLately I've been having issues with my windows, door locks and power mirrors not working. Here are the symptoms;
What works;
Driver window Sunroof Key fob unlock/lock (Also all of the doors unlock when I open the door)
What does NOT work;
All passenger windows (they were working intermittently before but now none of them work) Door locks from any panel (Sometimes I can unlock the doors but can never lock them) Side view mirror controls
Seems like it could be a faulty ecu. Plan on removing the door this weekend to inspect everything.
I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
Can swap the 3.5l for a 4.0L? Are the trans different? I know this year offered both the 3.5L and the 4.0L.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 V6. Last Thursday, I started it cold, drove it about 500 feet, and it just stalled. I didn't lose power or anything, it just stalled; I did lose power steering though. Something that may work is that the battery light came on and started flashing when the car stalled, and continued to flash when i attempted to start it.
The car cranks, it just never turns over. I do not lose power like the battery is draining when I attempt to start it (The dummy panel shows the battery dropping to 11.7V, and returning to 11.9/12V when I stop trying to turn it over. I can do this for 15 seconds at a time (It automatically stops trying to turn after 15 seconds) for a long time, and the battery never drains, so it is as if it is charging as I am trying to turn it over. (Not sure if that is important to note or not).
I had it towed home, did nothing to it other than try and start it (which didn't work). Let it sit the weekend, and it started with no issues Monday. Drove it to work, almost made it, and the same thing happened. Same exact thing, battery light came on and started flashing, and the car stalled. Had it towed back again, and it hasn't started since.
I have checked all fuses and relays, nothing shows signs of failure there.
When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump getting power also.
Here is what has happened to the car in the past year (excuse me if too much detail is included):
Replaced the Alternator
Replaced the Starter
Replaced all break lines
Replaced all brake pads, rotors, calipers, bearing/hub
Replaced fuel line
I have not tested the fuel pressure, because I do not have a tool to do so.
Someone mentioned to me this week that my high mount brake light was not working. No big deal, just a burned out bulb I assumed. Well, I replaced the bulbs (two bulbs) and it still does not work. The sockets look fine, no corrosion. The wiring that I can see looks good. I used a volt meter & found I'm getting no juice at the socket . . ? Is there an in line fuse or something else simple I should check. I'm thinking this should be an easy fix & am frustrated I can't figure it out. By the way, my lower brake lights are working fine.
View 3 RepliesJust had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
our mechanic told us we had bad belts in our tires, and we should replace them. So we did. Over $500 later, the car still wobbles. It only happens on acceleration, and it starts somewhere around 40 mph, gets worse as I drive faster, and then around 55 mph it goes away. It does not happen on deceleration. We've seen posts on other pages where people have replaced CV joints, both front wheel bearings, both axles, tie rods, control arm bushings... but that doesn't solve the problem.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's '98 Aurora, she said she heard a loud click and suddenly lost the heated seats, tach, speedometer, fuel & temp gauges, DIC, and climate control. I check the 60A fuse under the rear seat, it was OK. Replaced it with another 60A, no difference. Everything else electrical is still functioning.
View 1 RepliesEverything in my 2001 Aurora runs/work fine - 2 days ago however, without a warning, the power locks and doors went out. What this might be ? I checked fuses and relays but not circuit breakers. Is faulty wiring more the likely the culprit ? All other electrical systems are fine.
View 5 RepliesI have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
View 6 RepliesThe rear door hatch on my 2002 Sante fe is not working. The Latch freezes in position to the handle and does not release or rebound back to the normal position, the door remains locked. I have taken the inner door cover apart,lubricated working controls and checked for any broken items.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Prius. Well, it looks like the electrical door lock on my driver door is no longer working. I can lock/unlock it manually with the key, but the clicker doesn't work on it at all. I was having trouble with the front passenger door locking, but discovered that clicking twice would get it to lock. Now, that door is working just fine, but the driver door isn't responding at all (the lights don't even flash). All the other doors lock/unlock fine, so it's not the clicker.
View 9 RepliesSo on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
View 7 RepliesI have an 03 Passat and the controls on the drivers door work only on that door, it is seemingly not connected to the other doors. For instance, only the drivers window will operate with the switch, but the others will operate with their individual switches. The door lock will only lock the drivers door as well, but if you use the passenger lock/unlock it works the other 3 doors only as well. The mirror control does not work either.
I checked all the fuses and everything seems fine.
Yesterday I got in my car and went to open the little "door" underneath the air controls and it was stuck! Tried several times pushing down hard and gently trying to lift up but nothing was working. Finally decided to give it a good push open and it opened but made a pop sound. Thought I broke something but I think everything is all good. It got stuck on the MDI cable.
Why did they go with the MDI cable anyway? Why couldn't they just stick with the aux/usb port!? And the location of it is not ideal in my opinion. Definitely makes texting while having my phone plugged into it difficult.