I am trying to sell my 06 A6 and my check engine light came on. Took it to a certified mechanic and they said don't worry about it's nothing serious maybe a sensor. I then took it to an Audi dealer and they said an evaporation sensor possibly then twisted the fuel cap and it turned off.
View 3 RepliesThe gas gauge is not working properly. Two years ago it began to move to empty when I would fill the tank up. Then, without explanation, it worked fine until three weeks ago. I was traveling on the Mass Turnpike when the check engine light came on and the gas gauge showed that I had a full tank, when I knew that I had less than half a tank based on the mileage. I took the car to have the code read and discovered the gas gauge sensor was not functioning correctly, the ABS sensor coded, and the coolant system showed a code as well. I took the car to a mechanic who checked out the electrical system and said that he found no problem. I then took the car to another mechanic who immediately said it could be an electrical problem or the fuel pump. The fuel gauge still doesn't work correctly. I did not have this mechanic look at the car. I filled up the tank and the indicator went to empty immediately. My question is, if the fuel pump is the problem, would it take two years for the pump to malfunction? What else could the problem be, and why doesn't the mechanic just replace the sensor? No one seems to be concerned about the other two codes for the ABS system and the coolant system. I also should mention that the engine now sounds like a diesel engine on a tractor trailer revving up before you switch gears. I don't remember the car ever sounding like this before. Also the vehicle has 120,000 miles.
View 13 RepliesService Engine Soon light came on. Code read: slight evaporation leak... What to look for?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2006 GS 300 AWD from a friend with about 90k miles. After getting accustomed to this vehicle, I began to notice that the driver's side door handle does not automatically unlock the door as I know it should.
I've troubleshooted and changed the settings for each door handle through the key fob to unlock every door instead of just the drivers door. Every other door handle sensor works, besides the drivers door. I can lock and unlock doors with every other door handle but can not lock or unlock from the drivers side door sensor or the button on the door handle.
I've changed my key fob battery as I read that that might have something to do with it, but alas, no luck and I doubt that was the problem since the other doors have worked fine since I've gotten the car.
Do the sensors on these door handles go bad? Is there a way to replace them and are parts/labor expensive?
Last summer, driving my 2003 Audi A4, my A/C suddenly stopped working, and the "econ" button couldn't be switched off. I took it to my mechanic, who said that a loose screw had blown a hole through my A/C compressor (image attached). Not only was my A/C not working, but I had to pay $1400 right then and there to get a new compressor installed. As I understand it, the compressor in my car is run by the timing belt and if it jammed, it could ruin the engine. So I paid up, but still didn't get have the A/C fixed.
My mechanic told me that the hole blown through the compressor had sent shards of aluminum throughout the A/C system. So to fix the A/C, he'd have to flush the whole system and replace parts throughout the car... probably adding up to north of $3,000. Definitely not worth it, considering the total value of the car.
Any second opinions? Is there an easier way to flush the A/C system? As far as I understand, with my new compressor, all the parts of my A/C system work fine, but I just gotta get all the aluminum shards out.
My friend's 2006 Audi A4 2.0 started dying on her a few months back. She replaced the battery to no avail. She then took it to a shop and they seemingly fixed it. It died again. She took it to the Audi dealership. They charged her $1200 to fix something to do with the temperature/vacuum system. A few days after it was out of the dealership and supposedly fixed, it started dying again.
She has taken it back to Audi a few more times. They have replaced the knock sensor, the cam shaft, the fuel pump, and the fuel filter, (they are supposedly not charging her labor).
We are stumped. Audi is stumped. The national Audi guys are stumped (yes, they called them in). My friend doesn't know what to do. She is essentially paying the Audi dealership for them to experiment on her car.
Recently bought an Audi A4 Quattro from a dealer with 112,876 miles on it.. The car runs absolutely beautiful, it up-shifts and downshifts without any noticeable issue, it changes gears without any issue, however... When I am trying to maintain a stable speed of around 35 - 40mph and my engine hangs around 1700RPM it'll bounce up and down slightly..
The revs will hop between 1700RPM up to around 1750RPM and then back down, and then up again.. It's hardly noticeable and the only time it causes any issue/delay is when it hops above 2000RPM and then back down... Is the torque converter the issue or what else could be the cause? Timing belt has been done, spark plugs have been checked, oil has been changed.
I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
Looking for the answer to this question. This could possibly save me some money.
View 19 RepliesI have these two items removed and before I hit the road with the car I would like to get these damn sensors outta my cluster. What ohm resistors I need for each item? I lost my meter and would really like to not buy another.
View 15 Replies So far i haven't been able to find a lot of solid info on this rain sensor. Here's what i know:
My sensor indeed works, if i remove it and move my fingers the wipers will speed up/slow down accordingly. It looks like the window has been replaced and a very "shotty" job was done replacing the sensor/rearview mirror.
There was extra adhesive around the sensor, i removed that and cleaned it up, also cleaned up the gel over the sensor. Reinstalled everything, still cannot get it to work.
If i have just the sensor on the windshield, it semi-works, but when i put the mirror back on, it doesnt work at all.
I know the sensor is good, i get the fastest wiper settings. Relay #192 is good.
My best guess:The sensor is going bad, or the gel isn't making a good enough contact with the windshield allowing it to "detect" the rain hitting it. You can tell the gel isn't in the best of shape and I am pretty sure that's the culprit.
Where to locate a rain sensor? or the Gel, or if any gel can be used, I am going to try and find something i can "substitute" in place of the gel thats on it.
I'm having an issue with my backup sensors when its cold (40 and below). The issue is, they don't work. When I put it in reverse the sensor light on the dash comes on signifying they're off. I push the button to try to turn them back on and it stays on with no change. Once the outside temp heats up they start operating as normal. How to fix this?
View 10 RepliesI have the car stored but when I went to start it last week it was dead. Trickle charged the battery and noticed on the cluster my car said the door was open (it was not). I firmly closed it and it the indicator went off, check later and the light came back on. It's likely hardware and not something I can clear so any tips?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus, and have been driving it for about 5 months. The other day, as I was driving, the speedometer stopped working. It did that one time before, but started back working. However, this time, it still is not working and I have no idea how fast/slow I am going. Often, my car has little glitches where you have to lock/unlock the door a certain way or it does not work right. Everybody jokes that my car has OCD! Also, once you crank the car, you have to turn the key back halfway or certain things don't work- like the clock, wipers, turn signals, etc. I don't know if this is related to the speedometer situation or not. The last time the speedometer stopped working, I had the AC on and a cassette tape in the deck; I was trying to hit the rewind button, but kind of accidentally pushed between fast-forward and rewind, and that is when the speedometer stopped working. I am not sure this is related. Do you know if my car has a sensor or a cable for the speedometer? Is this something that can be easily and inexpensively fixed?
View 1 RepliesReplaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
View 13 Repliesi have a 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke. the cam sensor was acting up. that what the scan tool said. i replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and the truck is still acting up. the motor hitches and will shut off randomly. it tripped the check engine light, and the code is the "cam position sensor" once the truck is warmed up and shut down for like 10 minutes the sensor will not act up anymore. if i just start the truck and run it, even once it is up to tempature it will act up. but if i shut the truck down for about 10 minutes, it goes away. is there something else that could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesI know i should probably go to the dealer but just want to know what's going on before going there. Basicly someone kicked my passenger side seat, and now the AIRBAG OFF light is on and the seatbelt sensor for the passenger side is not working. i.e if i remove the seat belt while driving the sound wont come on and the light indicating seatbelt is not on (is always on).
View 3 RepliesI'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
View 12 RepliesTurn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that my new Prius Plug In won't always lock and unlock using the touch sensor on the door handle. The manual states that when this occurs to use two fingers and touch both the top and bottom of the handle at the same time. This does not work either.
Problem seems to occur when in busy shopping center parking lots where other vehicles have similar systems? Once the car is back in my driveway or in the parking lot at work, the sensor works fine.
Could it have something to do with RF interference in the immediate area of my car? Is this a latent 'security feature' not really addressed in the manual?
My 2002 Excursion was rear ended. Body shop replaced the bumper. I noticed that the reverse aid was no longer working. I checked and noticed that non of the sensors were working. It was working before they replaced the bumper. If the speaker is out, would the four rear sensor still tick? I find it mighty strange, that it worked before and after the accident. Now that they've replaced the bumber, Every time it's placed in reverse, the light comes on.
View 4 Replies