Audi - A6 :: 2001 - Boost Drops / CEL Came On
Oct 8, 2012
'01 A6 2.7T 95k....Not boosting as high as normal...the check engine light came on the other day, P1136 code said engine was running lean. I found a small vacuum hose leak near wastegate and fixed it today (CEL is still on though). Stock boost is normally around 8-9 psi, but I am only getting 6-7 psi. Also, the boost seems to climb more slowly than it has been, and it occasionally goes into limp mode (only 3-4 psi). The turbos were replaced about a year ago with all new blue hoses. There aren't any other symptoms, no weird noises.
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I have a 98 passat b5 turbo. All done to it is k&n filter and exhaust.... I put a boost gauge on it and i only get 3-4 psi... is this normal? it sounds very low. Also a weird thing is that the boost drops off at high rpm.
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My mk4 golf 1.8t aum has intermittent boost it boosts strong then just drops off ....
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Don't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
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On my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
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The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
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I'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
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I'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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My daughter just had a new front tire put on her Audi A6 AWD, 2001 car and now her traction control will not turn on. I've been told that being it is all wheel drive that the tires need to have the same wear and that all tire will need to be replaced to prevent damage.
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I have a 2001 Audi TT, every time when I push the gas pedal down the car is shaking(not whole lot). I replaced one of the injection coils but still does the same thing.
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2001 Audi A4 1.8T... Driving down the highway the other day, a lovely place to be stricken w/car problems, the accelerator seemed to just up and quit on me. I went from a solid 70mph to 30, then w/in five seconds it came back to life, thrusting us forward back to speed, then within another five seconds, it cut out and I just made it onto the shoulder. Had it towed home. . . it will crank, but won't start, and now am wondering if it's worth the fix. Dealer just replaced a recalled part and gave me a supermarket list of to-fixes, none of which seem like they directly relate, especially w/out a check engine on or specific error codes. Have replaced the MAF sensor, Vacuum Check Valve, Gas tank/pump, Battery and Alternator w/in the past several years.
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'01 A6 with 95k....I have noticed intermittent hard turning to the right at low speeds.. Only to the right though, turning left is fine. It feels like there is no power steering, then all the sudden it will start working. It does NOT seem to be temperature related. Usually it clears up after a few minutes of driving, but it has gotten worse. Does this mean the whole rack needs to be replaced? Would flushing the fluid support at all?
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I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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On my 2001 Prius, while driving down the road the red triangle comes on and the ICE drops down to idle and the car slows down to 29mph. If I floor the gas peddle the car may or may not pick up speed slowly but if I let off of the gas peddle the least little bit it will slow down to 29mph. If I stop and turn the car off and then back on the triangle is still there but the car runs fine. After turning the car on and off 2 or 3 times the triangle disappears.
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I have a 2001 Pontiac Montana van, when i drive i feel like there is just not enough power there. Most of the time when i hit 30mph the engine drops in power, hard to explain so I will try my best. I get in turn the key starts right up with out any hesitation what's so ever! I leave for work, while driving when I come to a stop sign and stop and take off its gets sluggish so while my speedometer is going up my movement is not changing as it should so needless to say I have to do 80 85 mph just to keep up with the average moving can at 70mph.
Once in a while I will give it some gas and let go of it and it would back fire a little not sure why. Recently I had new head gaskets put on cause temperature was not staying where it was suppose to be, they smooth out the headers and did a tune up, not sure about the timing, New fluids, once in awhile the temp would climb but that cause of the fans. Took it to AutoZone they did a obd code check came back with O2 senser and nothing else, so if I replace this will it bring my van back to normal running operation? And would it be anything I could check to rule out?
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I have a 2001 elantra gls automatic. I have am suffering what seems to be a common problem with these. while driving my car randomly drops into third gear, also sometimes it sticks in like second first (like 5000 rpm just to go 30). my brother put a computer on it and error codes popped up: p0500 vehicle speed sensor; p0501 speed sensor range performance; and p0720 output speed sensor. I checked all the wiring and none of it is damaged, so I'm thinking bad sensor. What i really need to know is, could one of these sensors be tripping the others and if so which one? or should i replace all 3?
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
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