On the way home the instrument gauges start bouncing around, and then the car dies and won't restart. Battery is at 14v and jump charge with charger won't turn over. Passlock has been bypassed. Checked bypass and still intact.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban 2500 4WD. When driving over any bumps, the gauges go to 0 (all gauges, speedo, tech, fuel, temp,etc.) and the battery, abs, and airbag lights come on. It is just an intermittent problem. Everything immediately comes back up until the next bump.
Note: nothing else is compromised (headlights, radio, performance, etc. are not affected)
I have taken the cluster out and "bounced" it around in my hand while the truck is running and cannot duplicate the problem. I have check ground wires and battery cables.
I have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
View 2 RepliesI have not been here in a while. Sold my IS250 and picked up a 2004 GX470 for the family. Installed a new double DIN head unit a few months ago and finally got around yesterday to installing the backup camera. Since I had the rear hatch open I decided to replace the rear hatch lock actuator motor as well. Hooked everything up and turned on prior to closing the interior panels and everything worked fine (reverse lights, locks, backup camera, started up fine). So I closed up all the panels and go to start the car and I get nothing but random flashing from the dash once I get ignition to ON. I also get a steady clicking from the fuse area.
Checked the fuses and I also tried to hookup to Techstream to see if any errors, but of course I get nothing (it can't connect to the vehicle). I disconnected the negative for 20 mins or so and tried starting again with the same outcome. So I disconnected the camera wires from the reverse light (thinking maybe the GND wire was shorting somewhere to chassis?) and disconnected the negative battery cable for a while and tried once again... same flashing instrument cluster lights and no luck . Gotta get the wifes vehicle back up and running.
I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
My Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
View 3 RepliesI have had a problem with my 99 Alero for some time. It is a 4 cyl 2 door and there is a hesitation that comes and goes I have changed the plugs,fuel filter and air cleaner and will still do it from time to time. I have also tried different grades of gas and injector cleaner.
It seems to do it most when we are going up an incline just before it shifts when the motor is getting the most load on it but it will also do it when I start it up like it has a miss. As I said this comes and gos and no lights have come on so I'm not sure if it has stored codes.
Recently I have tried Outlaw super concentrated fuel injector cleaner and I have not had the problem for the last week or so?
The car cranks but doesn't start. I checked the fuel pump fuse & its OK. I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake & it started for about 2 seconds. What some of the possible causes?
View 5 Replies2001 olds always has battery light on and past few days hard to start. Left wheel well sensor has gone out a couple of times the last 2 months. Just replaced radiator and now the car quickly overheats. So what is going on with my car?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
View 11 RepliesI am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
I have a 99 Alero that wont start. I have had 3 people look at it and they don't seem to understand what's wrong with it. I was told to replace the ignition switch and to also get a new battery , which I did. It still wont start. I go to turn my key and it does absolutely nothing. Makes no noise , nothing. When I have it in the on position all my lights begin to flicker including my headlights. They also get very dim and it makes a fast clicking noise coming from the fuse box under my hood. Someone told me that my security system needs to be reset and to put it in the on position for 10 mins , but nothing happened.
View 2 RepliesI just installed an aftermarket stereo in my 2001 Alero. I did not use a wiring harness, but I just cut the old harness out. (probably a bad idea!) I did NOT disconnect the battery when I installed it.
1. I did not know where to put the radio ignition wire for the stereo (the ACC wire) (it was orange in my case). It looks like this car does not have one? I ended up just plugging the radio's ignition wire into the constant hot so the radio is always on.
2. After hooking everything up, the car does not start, it turns over for about 2 seconds, then it quits. Also, the instrument panel lights are not coming on. Everything else seems to work OK, interior lights, etc. I checked the fuses IPC/HVAC BATT and IPC/BFC ACC and they are not blown. My guess is that I did not wire the ACC part correctly...
What did I do wrong? I hope it isn't some complicated anti-theft mechanism.
So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
For the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
What could cause my Instrument lights to stay on for a while as well as my gauges to malfunction when the temperature is cool.? It just started doing this.
View 3 RepliesSo I'm getting ready to do some repairs on my Yaris (almost 200k miles, clutch went out recently, have a kit on order). Driving a manual without a tachometer us dynb, so I've been looking into third party tachs or replacing the stock one with a different cluster that includes one.
Specifically something like this one: [URL]
I don't know if this would be a drop in replacement on the hatchback or not though. 07 hatch replace your panel with an OEM from another model that includes the tach?