Alero :: Codes Can't Be Read In 2002 Vehicle
Dec 8, 2012
I have a 2002 Alero 2.2 4 cyl and the gauges, head lamps in auto position, windows, fan, and radio will not come on. When car is off and key turned to acc. radio will work. It still drives ok, doesnt seem to be draining the batt but the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they COULD NOT read the codes and didn't know why.
The speedometer, temp and fuel gauges haven't worked for months now and the rest of the accessories not turning on is a recent issue.
The only thing that comes on regularly is the backlight for the dashboard and now the check engine light. I had the ignition switch replaced right before the speedometer, fuel and temp gauges stopped working. I noticed tapping the key sometimes gets the radio, windows, and fan working but not the dashboard gauges. Don't want to replace the ignition switch again since it doesn't seem to do anything for the dashboard gauges.
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03 Alero 2.2 with no maf sensor.
I have both codes 141, 171. I am trying to figure out if I should just change rear oxygen sensor or something else.
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The past week, the CEL of my Jetta 2000 was on, and a couple of days after, was off. But yesterday was relit. I take my car to Auto Zone to check codes with scanner, but was impossible read any code, the lector can't connect with computer. I thought in fuses, but the fuses are fine.
Searching on google, i found that the reason could be the aftermarket radio, but I am not sure about that, the connections are seen aparently fine. I Read in one thread that disconnecting the aftermarket radio harness is enough to can read codes from computer.
I read also that the scanner could be incompatible with VW cars, but I don't think that, because AutoZone should have a scanner compatible with most of the common cars models.
The fact is that I don't want to get in troubles with the harness of radio, I don't have tools like multimeter neither knowledge about electrical systems, i just want to know if disconnecting the radio harness is enough in order to read codes. (in case of the problem be on the K-line wire).
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Bought a used Prius 2010 last december, Now the hybrid system is shut down and the assumption is that the hybrid battery is the culprit. No codes has been read out of the system but the car has passed 330 000 km so I guess that's very plausible. Have found a used battery from a 2009 prius who the local Toyota service facility says is compatible.
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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2002 olds alero 3400 engine.....I had a code of a p1401 insufficient flow to egr ..Which is most of the time the clogged passage. I took the throttle off an accessed the egr passage. Boy was it clogged with carbon so I cleaned it out thoroughly, which fixed the problem.
I reset the computer I drove it a few days and now all the monitors are ready, except the evap monitor. I have drove a few days highway, street, stop and go etc my tank being half filled etc. And its still not ready. Car has to take emission soon. Its a coincidence because the Alero ac isn't working so it can't be turned on right now.I ran into a similar problem with a 2000 Monte Carlo the evap wouldn't go to the ready status he had a short somewhere and the ac compressor would work intermittently. The compressor finally worked one day with defrost on and the evap went to ready.
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The car cranks but doesn't start. I checked the fuel pump fuse & its OK. I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake & it started for about 2 seconds. What some of the possible causes?
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My driver side window problem escalates as it gets warmer within the cabin. I have replaced, and have been told that my window regulator and motor and clips are fine but NOW it is the main control switch/box that is connected to all window buttons within the driverside door itself. I was shown, that it is a black box that has the widow switched connected to it and my best chance is to replace it so the driver side window, the only window that does not go down, will work again.
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My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
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I have a 2002 and i just recently started having a problem with my turn signal. It seems that when its hot outside, my turn signals wont work, left or right signal. could it be the fuse, or would it be within the steering wheel.
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I have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
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My navigation system just shut off and the screen reads" can not read disk" . Any solution for this problem?
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I m getting codes 21 water temp sensor changed it and code 34 and i cant find what that code is and how do i rest the ecu i do not have the green ecu rest wires...
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The sound is coming from the front passenger side. The noise gets louder the faster I go, put in neutal and noise still there press brake noise there turn wheel no change in pitch. Jacked it up and there's no play in wheel. Just changed both front wheel bearings 6 months ago.
Just changes all brakes today and got all new tires today. I'm thinking maybe the differential bearing but not sure and if so how to change it. I travel from Mississippi to Baton Rouge, LA everyday for work, about 240 miles round trip. What would happen if a bearing went out while driving 70 mph on interstate.
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Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
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A Power Steering leak has developed on my 2002 Alero's driver side near the front wheel. I've been aware from other posts that it may be the Rack and Pinion, a power steering pump or a seal. There has been no noises in my steering when I drive and its steering well as it ever was. I am wondering is there a way to detect what of the three things it may be?, without taking it into a dealership or shop?
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I have 2 x P0031 and 2 x P0051 after an accident. I rear ended an SUV. My hood got bent and the radiator got pushed in. The body shop said they don't think it was due to an accident. I can't possibly have 4 sensors go on me.
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I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
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I'm going out of town by bus and won't be returning until October. I'm concerned about letting my 2002 Honda CR-V sit for that long period of time without being driven and in the weather. I was told I need to fill my gas tank up so it won't rot, change the oil, don't put it on jack stands since it's bad for the suspension, and maybe buy a car cover. Is there anything else I need to do?
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