Alero :: 2001 GLS Won't Crank In Freezing Temperature Or Colder Humid Air
Oct 19, 2012
3.4 2001 GLS.. When it's near freezing out there and humid, the car won't crank, it's not the starter since I can get it going by jumping it.. I'll just leave the car alone, go to work and start it later and it will start just fine for who knows how long..
It did it 2 days ago, I didn't notice any security light on solid or anything else whatsoever but I think I have an electrical intermittent problem that gets worst with humidity or colder humid air.. I've read most topics here but I still can't figure it out so far.. Inspecting the fuse box showed that the positive wire was surrounded by green dust, I've cleaned that.. My horn sounds anemic at times when I use the remote door lock..
Is there a relay dedicated to crank the car, I mean, sending the power to the starter solenoid? I just don't get the relation with that near freezing or freezing temperature thing..
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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There has been below freezing temperatures here in NYC and I noticed that the air suspension is disabled when left out in the cold.
The fist time I noticed this was when the temperature was 15 degrees and while driving the ride was very bouncy. I noticed I didn't hear the air compressor coming on. I tried raising the suspension from "N" to Hi or Lo but nothing happened when I pressed the button, not even the light, it just remained on "N".
I parked inside the garage and after about 20 minutes I heard the air compressor running and felt the car leveling itself. I was also able to adjust the by using the height control switch.
I have come to the conclusion that the cold weather is causing the air suspension to be disabled. I'm thinking the suspension should work at these temperatures. Is there any DIY for removing moisture from air suspension?
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When the temperature is above freezing, the Passenger Airbag light is always "Airbag Off" and the flashing red light does NOT engage, regardless of whether a passenger is sitting in the seat and regardless of whether the seat belt is latched.
When the temperature dips below freezing, the system works as expected:
No passenger: light is "Airbag"
Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag On"
Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag On" with red flashing seat belt sign
I can't imagine the issue is related to a component inside the passenger compartment (the seat weight or latch sensors), as the temperature inside the vehicle is usually above 60 F. That said, are there any components outside the compartment (under the car or in the engine compartment) that could be causing this behavior? Is this a water freezing/unfreezing issue, caught in some wiring somewhere?
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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2001 ford taurus. The heater worked (not great) then slowly got colder each week for 4wks changed the thermostat.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara Convertible, V6, low mileage (92,000), and it will reliably NOT start when the temperature gets below freezing. I have tried a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner on advice from a friend, but no success. Once the temp falls below freezing overnight, the engine cranks but never catches. Once the temp is above freezing for a few hours, it fires up fine.
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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Got a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.
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I have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
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My 01 alero 2.4l has some hesitation at takeoff, i have changed the plugs, boots, and fuel filter, and used fuel system cleaner. What could be causing this?
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2001 Alero ... I've read about the sensors and wiring on the hub causing the ABS and Trac lights. They come on with the Service Vehicle Soon light, sometimes, when I start rolling.
I had a mechanic look at it, and it was not giving any codes. He tried to turn off the lights with the machine, and they would not turn off. He concluded that it was a computer problem. He said that a ground causes the lights to come on, so it could be a wiring problem.
Why would my lights come on intermittently? Do I have to wait until they come on, then immediately pull over and check the sensor or hub? Is there any way to check this on my schedule?
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The backlights or whatever they are called that light up my spedometer and fuel gauge, etc, are not functioning. Other lights such as engine, oil and park/neutral/drive work just fine, as does every other electrical system as far as I can tell. Is there a specific fuse that I need to check, or does this warrant a trip to a repair facility?
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2001 olds always has battery light on and past few days hard to start. Left wheel well sensor has gone out a couple of times the last 2 months. Just replaced radiator and now the car quickly overheats. So what is going on with my car?
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I have had my 2001 Alero since it was brand new off the lot. It has been a strong running car. It has had done work on it, most recently the mechanic I'm using has replaced the intake gasket, thermostat, hoses, and coolant reservoir because of the coolant leaking. After all that still having problems with the coolant leaking (but apparently not mixing in to the oil)....I've just been putting water in and I have to stop after driving about 10 minutes to refill the reservoir.
The mechanic was going to replace the cooling fans because he said they weren't working but then he hooked up a sensor machine and there were no issues, so he ended up replacing the radiator because he thought there might be a blockage causing the water to boil back up into the reservoir, and the car overheating. The car drives great, but after about 10 minutes there is a type of sputtering. The mechanic is saying that he has replaced everything that can be replaced in the cooling system and that he thinks the head gaskets are bad.
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My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
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I have an 01 Alero that is a great little car with only 80k on it. Runs and drives like a champ but it has 2 issues that drive me nuts. The AC doesn't work at all. If you press the button on the dash, it does not light up. The compressor doesn't do anything either. I did check all the fuses trying to eliminate the simple but I didn't find any bad ones. What would be my next thing to check? Is it ever the AC relay?
Then the one that really frustrates me: the rear defrost. I live in MI, so 75% of the morning I need it to clear either snow, ice or fog. The button works but the lines don't heat up. I checked them all for power and none have power. I also checked each one for breakage and continuity and they are fine. I saw somewhere that the connection at the module likes to fry but I inspected it and didn't see anything burned.
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My 2001 alero 3400 engine is getting hot again this alero is running with a 2001 impala engine run great for few months, replace radiator, hoses, thermostat and suddenly coolant start leaking in the overflow, fans not working even with ac on, i replace the etc sensor and did not work, the fans turn on when I disconnect the etc sensor so i think the fan motors are ok. I got one pcm module from the salvage yard in case I need to replace it but I read that only the dealer can reprogram the computer system because vin number issues....
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