2001 olds always has battery light on and past few days hard to start. Left wheel well sensor has gone out a couple of times the last 2 months. Just replaced radiator and now the car quickly overheats. So what is going on with my car?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
View 3 RepliesFor the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
i just started having a problem with my car. I drove it somewhere and my trac off light was on i noticed it was running a little rough but i wasnt to concerned. When i got back in the car to drive it home it shifting very rough like it was throwing the car car forward when it shifted. Also when i stop it almost stalls out when i hit the gas. I have to press the gas a couple times to gwt it to where it wont stall.
Also forgot to say when starting and sitting idle no matter if it is hot or cold it runs really rough.
Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
View 1 RepliesI've been driving my wife's 2001 Ford ZX2 for the last ~9 months.
Early on in taking over driving it I noticed that it was difficult to start, so I had the battery checked. One place said it need to be replaced, but I wanted confirmation so I had it checked at two other places--it was in the normal range. So then I thought it probably needed a tune up since, as far as I know, it had never had one (has ~50K and I know it should've been done earlier). But, that didn't seem to fix it either.
I then had the fuel filter replaced. Nothing. I generally turn the key over for a few seconds before I actually crank it to let fuel in. It is now taking 3 times each startup to do this. And, right after starting it feels like the car is struggling to get gas (as if the fuel filter is completely stopped up or a fuel link is kinked).
Once the car is warm it cranks over on the first time (as if nothing is wrong). The last time I was at the shop they told me I need to have my fuel injection system cleaned. I have doubts about this--they based it on mileage not any sort of actual diagnostic or inspection. I use quality gas and run a fuel injector cleaner at each oil change.
On the way home the instrument gauges start bouncing around, and then the car dies and won't restart. Battery is at 14v and jump charge with charger won't turn over. Passlock has been bypassed. Checked bypass and still intact.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesGot a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.
I have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
View 12 RepliesI put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
View 15 RepliesMy battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
View 2 RepliesI've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
View 14 RepliesSome background, my truck has been sitting in the garage for a good month and I haven't started it. Been putting in 6 days a week for over 2 months at work, 60+ hour weeks. Today, I start the truck, it immediately dies. Successive attempts same result, blue smoke out the exhaust. I kept it running by revving it up but then it dies again. It's the original battery, 5+ years old now. MM shows 12v at rest, drops while cranking. I put the charger on the battery for a bit while I came inside to ask this, it's on trickle 2A and its at a 7 on the dial, and it goes to zero when fully charged.
I've been thinking I'll need to replace the battery before winter, but I'm hoping it's just that since its discharged that's why it won't stay running? Any thoughts? I have had zero issues with this truck but having a company truck over a year now, it sees very limited action. 2010 5.4 with just a tick over 40K, oil is good, air filter is clean and free of obstructions. We do live in the woods and have critters that hang out in the garage, like squirrels and chipmunks but I'm not seeing any evidence of chewed wires that I can see. It's in the garage and using a droplight I don't see anything obvious. Maybe it's as simple as I have to take the work truck and get a new battery I hope...
I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx that randomly dings and shows me the battery light.
It usually happens when going uphill or during really hard accelerations.
It is also showing OBDII code P0621.
The car has no other issues. Always starts, always runs well.
What causes this problem? Where should I start looking? I'm thinking it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
I started to notice my battery light comes on during a hard acceleration. So I have been keeping track of it. When the rpm's hit 3200 and above the light comes on bright but never at any other time. I put a volt meter on it and I have 13.4 volts at an idle, as the engine revs up the voltage climes to 13.9 then when it hits the 3200 mark voltage drops right off to 12.4. It seems like a regulator issue to me. The parts store says my 5.4 has an external regulator is that so or is it built right into the alternator?
View 7 RepliesMy 01 alero 2.4l has some hesitation at takeoff, i have changed the plugs, boots, and fuel filter, and used fuel system cleaner. What could be causing this?
View 1 Replies2001 Alero ... I've read about the sensors and wiring on the hub causing the ABS and Trac lights. They come on with the Service Vehicle Soon light, sometimes, when I start rolling.
I had a mechanic look at it, and it was not giving any codes. He tried to turn off the lights with the machine, and they would not turn off. He concluded that it was a computer problem. He said that a ground causes the lights to come on, so it could be a wiring problem.
Why would my lights come on intermittently? Do I have to wait until they come on, then immediately pull over and check the sensor or hub? Is there any way to check this on my schedule?
The backlights or whatever they are called that light up my spedometer and fuel gauge, etc, are not functioning. Other lights such as engine, oil and park/neutral/drive work just fine, as does every other electrical system as far as I can tell. Is there a specific fuse that I need to check, or does this warrant a trip to a repair facility?
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