Alero :: 2000 - Security Light Came On All Of A Sudden
Jun 12, 2013
I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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I've been having a problem with my 2000 Alero recently where, periodically, attempting to start the car will end in the car stalling and the security light beginning to flash on the dashboard. Usually after about 10 minutes the light goes off and the car starts normally (well, insofar as feeling like it's going to shake itself apart the moment it hits idle is normal, but that's another topic for another post). This happens about 40% of the time when starting the car, and seems to be happening more and more frequently (which may be my imagination).
I took the car into the dealer (after my local mechanic told me he was familiar with the problem and wouldn't be able to fix it), and they told me I needed to replace the body control module and passlock sensor... Car info : 2000 Oldsmobile Alero~140,000 miles2.4L I-4.....
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My girl has a 20004 Alero and she has the security problem at least one time almost everyday. When she tries to crank it, the sec light will be flashing. She turns the key to the on position for 10 mins. The light becomes solid. Then she can crank it.I have seen a video on YouTube of someone putting a toggle switch on the security wire on a Grand Am. Can I put this toggle bypass on her vehicle or is there a better fix?
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For the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 liter v8. On my drive to work this morning the headlights and the cluster light shut off and the security light illuminated and has been on ever since . The truck will crank and run fine I have brake lights and turn signals and reverse lights. I have read that this problem can usually be traced back to the body control module. I located the TBC fuse under the hood and it was blown. so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse and it blew immediately after I inserted it. So I am thinking if I am able to rule out a ground or bare wire somewhere then the module itself may just have to be replaced.
The next question I have is due to the security light staying on in the cluster all of the time. Assuming that I can continue to drive the truck while waiting to have the BCM replaced I would only need to ensure that I did not drive after dark as I have no headlights. But I am concerned that the security light being on all of the time will drain my battery. Do the security light remaining on will in fact drain the battery? And if so, is there a way to disable the cluster and door security light so that I may continue to drive it and not have to come home and disconnect the negative cable every
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I've read tons of posts about the security system and passlock on the ignition...but my truck does not have a chip key, as the dealer even looked into the key issue with me. There is no chip or resistor on this thing at all.
So, with that said, I have the identical problem as the passlock system people do. The truck will start, then stop, and the security light flashes at me. That's the last thing I want flashing me at 6am when I'm trying to leave for work.
It only happens about once every 2-3 months, but I want to eliminate the problem as I have a feeling one day it's not going to start on me and then the real problems will start...
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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I have 3400 engine in 2000 alero (V6 of course). Been having problem with my antifreeze leaking, So I assume the lower intake gasket again(which I have already replace 6 years ago with no problem) but this time after I replace it I notice coffee color oil (antifreeze getting in the oil). So figure I must have done something wrong so I replace the lower intake gasket again making sure I tighten everything with correct torgue. Still the same problem, if not worst. I took the front valve cover off (because I didn't see any coffee color from the back valve cover last time) to see if I can see where the antifreeze is coming from, I can see the the coffee color oozing on the top of the 2 center pushrods and rockers not quite from the gaskets itself (from what I can see) and white steam coming valley (or between the two heads)and notice bubbling on the bottom (not sure if that is normal). Not really into replacing the head gasket, but before I do, I want to make sure first.
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I have had my 2000 alero for a few years now and it has been a very dependable car to me until now. For some reason my car just dies while I am driving. But only when driving I can start it and let it run. In my driveway all day and nite if I wanted to but as soon as I get a few miles from home it just dies every time I drive it I have replaced the fuel filter but no change so I changed the fuel pump Car still dies!! Next I am changing the ignition I just don't have a clue what it could be.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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The factory 'Security System' aka alarm, in my 2000 Honda Accord EX goes off randomly. When this happens the horn sounds and lights flash for several minutes at a time. This can happen several times in one day and then not happen again for days or weeks. The owner's manual says that the security system is activated when the doors are locked and will sound an alarm if a passenger door, trunk lid or hood are opened while the system is activated. The system is deactivated by using either a key or the remote transmitter to unlock the doors. My mechanic tried to disable the hood latch switch, but this caused the alarm to sound continuously. How to fix the problem or disable the security system?
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i just started having a problem with my car. I drove it somewhere and my trac off light was on i noticed it was running a little rough but i wasnt to concerned. When i got back in the car to drive it home it shifting very rough like it was throwing the car car forward when it shifted. Also when i stop it almost stalls out when i hit the gas. I have to press the gas a couple times to gwt it to where it wont stall.
Also forgot to say when starting and sitting idle no matter if it is hot or cold it runs really rough.
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero 3.4L. The car has been making a "humming" noise near the front end. It sounds a lot like the noise you hear when driving on rough road. It happens no matter what gear the automatic transmission is in. It changes sound with speed (most prevalent at 40 MPH). The sound also changes when I turn the wheel - it is worse when I turn left going down the highway and the noise is less when I turn right. I have replaced the driver side wheel bearing, the drivers side dive axel (I noticed the CV boot was leaking), none of this worked. It sounds like it is on the drivers side so I have not messed with the passenger side. (CV joints look fine on the passenger side). I put the car on a lift and ran through the gears - there is a vibration (car shakes) as the tires speed up - but I can't tell if it is a tire or something else. I need to know what this might be - transmission? -Tire? -Passenger Hub?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I have a 2000 Alero GLS V6 with 215K miles. The car has been experiencing intermittent throttle issues where it will hesitate slightly. Immediately after this hesitation the trac control trio of lights come on. I don't think this is the bearing as there is no wheel noise to accompany this. Also the trac control lights don't remain on when you start the car the next time. If this hesitation occurs when using the cruise the cruise control will be disengaged.
I also scanned the car and pulled a P0341 and P0440 code. (cam sensor and evap). These codes have existed for the last two yrs long before the throttle hesitation issue has cropped up so I don't think it is related.
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I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. Whenever my gas gauge gets to about 3/4 tank, my car acts as if it is out of gas. I know my fuel gauge is working and that my car has gas. I was told that it was most likely the fuel pressure regulator valve so I had that replaced but it hasn't worked at all. Is it my fuel pump? Or what else could it be?
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Have a 2000 Alero. Mechanic says oil on ground is from leaking head gasket. $3000 to repair, or buy rebuilt engine for about the same. I thought head gasket leaks were into the coolant, not outside. Is this legit, including the cost? Valve cover gaskets were replaced earlier this year. Should I get another opinion? Other possible sources of leak?
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My girlfriend has a 2000 Alero 4 door. This car is basically our only mode of transport. I'm disabled and I'm trying to keep the car running as best I can. Just recently the car would stutter at complete stops. Then it went to stalls. This doesn't happen when it's cold only when it's warm and within operating temps.
I replaced the TPS but the stuttering and stalling is still happening. I'm ready to go through the car to find the problem... but I don't know where to go from here. I've cleared the computer to clear any dash lights and hoping it would reset the TPS. This didn't work.
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I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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