Alero :: 2000 GLS 2.4L Would Stutter At Complete Stops Then Stalls
Jun 24, 2012
My girlfriend has a 2000 Alero 4 door. This car is basically our only mode of transport. I'm disabled and I'm trying to keep the car running as best I can. Just recently the car would stutter at complete stops. Then it went to stalls. This doesn't happen when it's cold only when it's warm and within operating temps.
I replaced the TPS but the stuttering and stalling is still happening. I'm ready to go through the car to find the problem... but I don't know where to go from here. I've cleared the computer to clear any dash lights and hoping it would reset the TPS. This didn't work.
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I have a 00 Passat GLS.
When i accelerate, whether it's hot/cold/wet/dry outside, the car almost stalls. I have not had it stall yet, usually out of pure fear, i drop the pedal to the floor, and i catches up. I have had this happen at very inopportune times, like joining traffic. The car does a sort of stutter step.
I know little about new cars, but i feel like the fuel or air aren't making it through nicely.
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On my 1996 honda accord ex 2.2v when i press the gas pedal for a bout 2 seconds the engine doesn't do anything, then after those 2 seconds the car finally revs but it still feels like there is no power. I changed the spark plugs to brand new honda brand ones but this didn't work, someone told me that i could have been the fuel filter, and others say its the tranny which one can it be. The only other problem that i have is there is a stutter when i leave from a complete stop, but it only happens when i am in a complete stop, the "no power" issue happens when i try to pass on the free way or want to speed up.
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I have an 01 olds alero, I been having problems with the engine stalling out. i was told it may need a new fuel filter so I replaced filter and now it idles rough till it stalls. What to do next? I replaced the plugs 2 years ago also.
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I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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I have 3400 engine in 2000 alero (V6 of course). Been having problem with my antifreeze leaking, So I assume the lower intake gasket again(which I have already replace 6 years ago with no problem) but this time after I replace it I notice coffee color oil (antifreeze getting in the oil). So figure I must have done something wrong so I replace the lower intake gasket again making sure I tighten everything with correct torgue. Still the same problem, if not worst. I took the front valve cover off (because I didn't see any coffee color from the back valve cover last time) to see if I can see where the antifreeze is coming from, I can see the the coffee color oozing on the top of the 2 center pushrods and rockers not quite from the gaskets itself (from what I can see) and white steam coming valley (or between the two heads)and notice bubbling on the bottom (not sure if that is normal). Not really into replacing the head gasket, but before I do, I want to make sure first.
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I have had my 2000 alero for a few years now and it has been a very dependable car to me until now. For some reason my car just dies while I am driving. But only when driving I can start it and let it run. In my driveway all day and nite if I wanted to but as soon as I get a few miles from home it just dies every time I drive it I have replaced the fuel filter but no change so I changed the fuel pump Car still dies!! Next I am changing the ignition I just don't have a clue what it could be.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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I have a 2005 Ford F150. The engine sometimes quits when I slow down to stop for a stop sign or slow down to make a turn. I shift into neutral and it starts up and I am on my way again. This is an intermittent problem. Of course, it has never done this for a mechanic. It will happen 6 or 7 times in one day, and then won't fail for 2 or 3 days. The Ford dealership has replaced the air flow sensor. Did not work. They now think it is the throttle body that should be replaced. I am reluctant to replace this as they are not getting any codes from the computer telling them it is failing. They are not getting any codes related to this issue at all.
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My 1994 Chevy Lumina drives great when its in motion but when it warms up it will stall when your at a stop light. It does great at a quick stop, like a short red light or a stop sign but when I am sitting at a long red light it just stalls. It will start right back up but this is annoying. Recently the car radiator was replaced, so the car over heated. What could the problem be?
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
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My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
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i just started having a problem with my car. I drove it somewhere and my trac off light was on i noticed it was running a little rough but i wasnt to concerned. When i got back in the car to drive it home it shifting very rough like it was throwing the car car forward when it shifted. Also when i stop it almost stalls out when i hit the gas. I have to press the gas a couple times to gwt it to where it wont stall.
Also forgot to say when starting and sitting idle no matter if it is hot or cold it runs really rough.
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I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero 3.4L. The car has been making a "humming" noise near the front end. It sounds a lot like the noise you hear when driving on rough road. It happens no matter what gear the automatic transmission is in. It changes sound with speed (most prevalent at 40 MPH). The sound also changes when I turn the wheel - it is worse when I turn left going down the highway and the noise is less when I turn right. I have replaced the driver side wheel bearing, the drivers side dive axel (I noticed the CV boot was leaking), none of this worked. It sounds like it is on the drivers side so I have not messed with the passenger side. (CV joints look fine on the passenger side). I put the car on a lift and ran through the gears - there is a vibration (car shakes) as the tires speed up - but I can't tell if it is a tire or something else. I need to know what this might be - transmission? -Tire? -Passenger Hub?
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Today I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I have a 2000 Alero GLS V6 with 215K miles. The car has been experiencing intermittent throttle issues where it will hesitate slightly. Immediately after this hesitation the trac control trio of lights come on. I don't think this is the bearing as there is no wheel noise to accompany this. Also the trac control lights don't remain on when you start the car the next time. If this hesitation occurs when using the cruise the cruise control will be disengaged.
I also scanned the car and pulled a P0341 and P0440 code. (cam sensor and evap). These codes have existed for the last two yrs long before the throttle hesitation issue has cropped up so I don't think it is related.
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I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. Whenever my gas gauge gets to about 3/4 tank, my car acts as if it is out of gas. I know my fuel gauge is working and that my car has gas. I was told that it was most likely the fuel pressure regulator valve so I had that replaced but it hasn't worked at all. Is it my fuel pump? Or what else could it be?
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