Alero :: 2000 Dies While Driving
Jan 20, 2014
I have had my 2000 alero for a few years now and it has been a very dependable car to me until now. For some reason my car just dies while I am driving. But only when driving I can start it and let it run. In my driveway all day and nite if I wanted to but as soon as I get a few miles from home it just dies every time I drive it I have replaced the fuel filter but no change so I changed the fuel pump Car still dies!! Next I am changing the ignition I just don't have a clue what it could be.
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For a while now when i would turn my fan on, from off, the lights showing the air inflow, etc. fade out and i get no air intake what so ever. The light is on when the dial is switched into the off position, but when i go from level 1 and up the power dies out. Intermittently it will turn on, but often for brief moments of time. Also when it IS on i get a permanent "cruise" light that stays on however my cruise control doesnt work when this is going on.
The light is just on. When it does decide to work and i turn my cruise control on it works up until my fan dies out again (they are on and off at the same times) and thus, the cruise control dies again. I took apart my heater circuit board in hopes that it would solve the problem, and for about a week it did. However it ceased to work yet again. I went and pulled one from a scrapped car to see if replacing the unit would solve the problem, but this one is not having any better luck.
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I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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I have 3400 engine in 2000 alero (V6 of course). Been having problem with my antifreeze leaking, So I assume the lower intake gasket again(which I have already replace 6 years ago with no problem) but this time after I replace it I notice coffee color oil (antifreeze getting in the oil). So figure I must have done something wrong so I replace the lower intake gasket again making sure I tighten everything with correct torgue. Still the same problem, if not worst. I took the front valve cover off (because I didn't see any coffee color from the back valve cover last time) to see if I can see where the antifreeze is coming from, I can see the the coffee color oozing on the top of the 2 center pushrods and rockers not quite from the gaskets itself (from what I can see) and white steam coming valley (or between the two heads)and notice bubbling on the bottom (not sure if that is normal). Not really into replacing the head gasket, but before I do, I want to make sure first.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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i just started having a problem with my car. I drove it somewhere and my trac off light was on i noticed it was running a little rough but i wasnt to concerned. When i got back in the car to drive it home it shifting very rough like it was throwing the car car forward when it shifted. Also when i stop it almost stalls out when i hit the gas. I have to press the gas a couple times to gwt it to where it wont stall.
Also forgot to say when starting and sitting idle no matter if it is hot or cold it runs really rough.
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I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero 3.4L. The car has been making a "humming" noise near the front end. It sounds a lot like the noise you hear when driving on rough road. It happens no matter what gear the automatic transmission is in. It changes sound with speed (most prevalent at 40 MPH). The sound also changes when I turn the wheel - it is worse when I turn left going down the highway and the noise is less when I turn right. I have replaced the driver side wheel bearing, the drivers side dive axel (I noticed the CV boot was leaking), none of this worked. It sounds like it is on the drivers side so I have not messed with the passenger side. (CV joints look fine on the passenger side). I put the car on a lift and ran through the gears - there is a vibration (car shakes) as the tires speed up - but I can't tell if it is a tire or something else. I need to know what this might be - transmission? -Tire? -Passenger Hub?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I have a 2000 Alero GLS V6 with 215K miles. The car has been experiencing intermittent throttle issues where it will hesitate slightly. Immediately after this hesitation the trac control trio of lights come on. I don't think this is the bearing as there is no wheel noise to accompany this. Also the trac control lights don't remain on when you start the car the next time. If this hesitation occurs when using the cruise the cruise control will be disengaged.
I also scanned the car and pulled a P0341 and P0440 code. (cam sensor and evap). These codes have existed for the last two yrs long before the throttle hesitation issue has cropped up so I don't think it is related.
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I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. Whenever my gas gauge gets to about 3/4 tank, my car acts as if it is out of gas. I know my fuel gauge is working and that my car has gas. I was told that it was most likely the fuel pressure regulator valve so I had that replaced but it hasn't worked at all. Is it my fuel pump? Or what else could it be?
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Have a 2000 Alero. Mechanic says oil on ground is from leaking head gasket. $3000 to repair, or buy rebuilt engine for about the same. I thought head gasket leaks were into the coolant, not outside. Is this legit, including the cost? Valve cover gaskets were replaced earlier this year. Should I get another opinion? Other possible sources of leak?
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My girlfriend has a 2000 Alero 4 door. This car is basically our only mode of transport. I'm disabled and I'm trying to keep the car running as best I can. Just recently the car would stutter at complete stops. Then it went to stalls. This doesn't happen when it's cold only when it's warm and within operating temps.
I replaced the TPS but the stuttering and stalling is still happening. I'm ready to go through the car to find the problem... but I don't know where to go from here. I've cleared the computer to clear any dash lights and hoping it would reset the TPS. This didn't work.
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I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
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I have a 2000 Alero w/ 2.4 103,000 miles auto. I have been trying to fix a problem for about 3 months. It all started one night when i got stuck in my backyard in about a foot if mud. I thought i could drive it out, but when the wheels would spin and traction control would limit the rpms. After getting out the car would skip every now and then going up an incline at highway speeds in 4th gear (drive) then it would skip while idling. I could get it to run smooth if i hit the pedal and made it shift to 3rd. I drive this car daily and the problem has got worse slowly. Now its hard to crank and when it does there is a small amount of white smoke with strong gas smell while the motor spudders for about 10 secs.
It will finally "clear" up and still misfire every few secs or just cut off. Gas mileage is terrible between 15-18mpg. The engine light and trac off light has only been on twice. Both times the code was for random misfire of multiple cylinders. I have put plugs, boots (wires), distributor, 2 fuel processor regulator, seafoam, all octanes of gas, pulled injectors (looked ok a little dirty but still could be one) and I have ordered ignition control module. Its getting hard to drive and even harder to sell. It has just started the white smoke and gas smell and i think its that's the pressure regulator, but the skipping and rough idle....
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I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cylinder with 127K miles. After driving for a period of 30 to 45 minutes, it will cut off and it takes 30 minutes to an hour before it will restart. I have had the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, coil pack and computer replaced and I am still having the same problem. What might be causing this?
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I've been having a problem with my 2000 Alero recently where, periodically, attempting to start the car will end in the car stalling and the security light beginning to flash on the dashboard. Usually after about 10 minutes the light goes off and the car starts normally (well, insofar as feeling like it's going to shake itself apart the moment it hits idle is normal, but that's another topic for another post). This happens about 40% of the time when starting the car, and seems to be happening more and more frequently (which may be my imagination).
I took the car into the dealer (after my local mechanic told me he was familiar with the problem and wouldn't be able to fix it), and they told me I needed to replace the body control module and passlock sensor... Car info : 2000 Oldsmobile Alero~140,000 miles2.4L I-4.....
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My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
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For the last week I've been having issues w/ my 2006 B6 (~90k miles). During city driving it will randomly just stall on me (usually when coming to a stop in stop/go driving) and a red battery light will come on - so, I must put the car in Park restart it and resume driving. I've also had the ECP and check engine light come on randomly, but then they've come and gone and I haven't seen them since. Sometimes I can go an entire drive without experiencing the issue and other times I can have it occur a handful of times. Again, only during city driving, never during highway driving and the car always starts without any issues. I recently had the catalytic converter replaced, so this is the last thing I need!
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