Alero :: 2000 4cyl Shifting Hard?
Jul 29, 2012
i just started having a problem with my car. I drove it somewhere and my trac off light was on i noticed it was running a little rough but i wasnt to concerned. When i got back in the car to drive it home it shifting very rough like it was throwing the car car forward when it shifted. Also when i stop it almost stalls out when i hit the gas. I have to press the gas a couple times to gwt it to where it wont stall.
Also forgot to say when starting and sitting idle no matter if it is hot or cold it runs really rough.
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My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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Issues with the transmission in the 2000 Century. My car shifts perfectly fine cold, but once it warms up it shits hard between all gears. Downshifts are never an issue, just up shifts. To me this sounds like both shift solenoids may be sticking or shot... I have already drained the fluid and changed the filter, added lucas tranny stop-slip, drained that out and replaced fluids again... no codes to go by and no high revs before shifts when accelerating...
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 XLT with a 5R55E automatic transmission.
Coming out of a stop the truck jolts at about 20 mph as it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. It feels like it revs too high in 2nd gear, up to about 2400 rpm, and then shifts hard into third. It feels like the truck gets a gentle hit from behind.
Earlier in the week, the O/D light flashed. I took it immediately to an independent tranny shop who pulled the code for me: P7033, incorrect ratio in 3rd gear.
They cleared the code for me. In limited city and highway driving (less than 15 miles each trip) the O/D light has not flashed again. But the problem remains. I plan to take it back to the shop later next week.
What might cause this so that I might have a more informed conversation with the tranny mechanic?
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I have a 2000 V10 2WD Excursion with 104,000 miles. Last week it started shifting hard between first and second, but only when I am between 1500-2k RPMs. If I rev the engine higher, it shifts smooth. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I rarely tow anything except my little trailer to the dump every few months. I have a few questions:
1. Should I drop the pan and change the tranny filter?
2. Should/Can I check the rear diff fluid? (haven't noticed any leaks)
3. Could an inline flush and fill work?
4. I saw a post about a speed sensor in the rear diff. Could this be the issue?
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My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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OK, so my 2000 FWD 6.8L Ex has 128k actual miles on the odometer w/ a stock 6.8L from a wrecked later model truck with ~115k actual miles on this 2nd engine from what I was told by the PO/2nd owner (I have no reason to doubt him and I verified the history with the original owner). So I'm guessing that the 4R100 is original without having ever been rebuilt.
I've had zero issues with the drivetrain up to this point, this truck has always run like a top and been very reliable. This afternoon in drive time traffic the overdrive light started flashing and at the same time I noticed that the transmission was shifting really hard (snapping into the next gear) and not in a good way. I was in stop and go traffic when it was shifting weird like this. At one point I make it up to 55+ and I noticed that the O/D light had quit flashing and now it was shifting like it normally does. Then back into stop and go driving the O/D light starts flashing again accompanied by the weird hard shifts.
Next thing I'm sitting there with my foot on the brake fully stopped waiting for traffic to start moving through the traffic signal when out of nowhere and no indication of anything being amiss the engine quits and I get dash lights including CHECK ENGINE and THEFT. I cycle the key off and then try to restart it. It took nearly 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start up however once started everything is back to normal and I have NO trouble lights illuminated including no O/D light and it's back to shifting normally. I continue on in stop and go and highway speed driving for the next 15 minutes like nothing ever happened, transmission is shifting like it always has. The truck has been turned off once and restarted since that incident, yet no other indications of any issue. What's going on?? What to check into?
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Every 3 or 4 days my 2000 Camry 4Cyl Std Tranny keeps blowing out the 30A Buss Fuse in the under hood fuse box. What this fuse runs and what could be the problem. I don't think my Fan Motors are running could this cause the Fuse to pop.
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2001 olds always has battery light on and past few days hard to start. Left wheel well sensor has gone out a couple of times the last 2 months. Just replaced radiator and now the car quickly overheats. So what is going on with my car?
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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I have 3400 engine in 2000 alero (V6 of course). Been having problem with my antifreeze leaking, So I assume the lower intake gasket again(which I have already replace 6 years ago with no problem) but this time after I replace it I notice coffee color oil (antifreeze getting in the oil). So figure I must have done something wrong so I replace the lower intake gasket again making sure I tighten everything with correct torgue. Still the same problem, if not worst. I took the front valve cover off (because I didn't see any coffee color from the back valve cover last time) to see if I can see where the antifreeze is coming from, I can see the the coffee color oozing on the top of the 2 center pushrods and rockers not quite from the gaskets itself (from what I can see) and white steam coming valley (or between the two heads)and notice bubbling on the bottom (not sure if that is normal). Not really into replacing the head gasket, but before I do, I want to make sure first.
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I have had my 2000 alero for a few years now and it has been a very dependable car to me until now. For some reason my car just dies while I am driving. But only when driving I can start it and let it run. In my driveway all day and nite if I wanted to but as soon as I get a few miles from home it just dies every time I drive it I have replaced the fuel filter but no change so I changed the fuel pump Car still dies!! Next I am changing the ignition I just don't have a clue what it could be.
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Recently had BCM issues, a lot of corrosion in it, so I bought a new one connected it, let the key stay in the ON position for 15 minutes for it to relearn. It had been running beautifully until today. I go to start the car and it starts up then shuts off right away. Well at this time I'm in a parking lot with no where to go so I sit there and try the relearn thing again, didnt work. I happened to still have some electrical cleaner in the car so I sprayed out the key hole and key, removing all the junk I could. Nothing.
I unplug battery and reconnect BCM. Boom starts up. Drive it home and go back out a couple hours later to start it again. Does the same damn thing, starts up and dies. Security system light is on so I do the relearn again, nothing. Unplug the battery only this time and it starts fine, but dies on second try. Do I get a new ignition switch? Every time I unhook battery it starts up first try but nothing after that. Security system is over riding everything. I don't want to sink too much money in to this car seeing as it has 222k miles, time for a new one, just not quite ready yet.
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I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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