Acura - TSX :: 2006 - Stops Working / Shuts Off Suddenly Sometimes
Jul 24, 2011
My Acura has been having some problems with what I"m guessing is a computer glitch. It's been to the mechanic four times in the past two weeks and while my dealer has been great about cooperating and trying to fix the problem, I think they just don't know what the problem is. The problems started when one day I was driving the car and all of a sudden all the error message lights came on and the car could no longer accelerate. Drove it slowly back home but when i took it to the mechanic the next day, it was working fine so he couldn't do anything about it.
Took it home and within ten minutes the problem started again. This time i took it to an Acura dealer and they kept the car for two days until it started acting up again (engine warning lights and what not) and they did an engine valve replacement of the traction control or some such thing. Two days later I was driving and the car just shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I was moving and not stopped or anything at the time. Took the car back again and they decided to change the whole computer system. Now two days later again, the check emission and check transmission warnings came on again.
The car is still working for the time being but its only a matter of time before it conks out on me. Also, even while running, the lights that indicitate what gear it is in continuously flash (so the D is flashing instead of solid) and occasionally the D and D3 lights are flashing simultaneously even though I am obviously in drive.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
View 4 Replies
The car starts easily when the motor is cold. If I park the car for 30 minutes and then restart the motor, the following happens:
1. Motor turns over
2. Motor stutters and stops
3. I press down on gas pedal and turn ignition on-it starts with a little stutter
View 4 Replies
I drive a Volvo S40, 2006 with 45K miles. When I take the car out of my garage the AC works beautifully until the car begins to get warm. At about 30 minutes into the driving trip, only warm air blows. If I park anywhere in the sun, the AC does not provide cold air at all. The AC only works when the car is cool. I brought it to the dealer and they said the compressor is shouting off and needs to be replaced. I was hoping that it was low on refrigerant, which they did not check, and my son thinking that a fan belt gets loose when the car warms up. When I went to the dealer it was a cool day. I drove several places that morning and the AC worked for three hours before going warm.
View 11 Replies
About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
View 6 Replies
I have the base model GLS, but I put fogs in and hard wired them to the battery. They've been on for about 2 years now, and yesterday I went to turn my switch on under my dash and they didn't work. Fuse is fine, wires are fine, and the bulbs look fine. I'm still thinking its the bulbs though because the other day I put my header back on and I think the bulbs hit floor and kinda bent from the contact, so I'm thinking that might be it.
View 1 Replies
I had a new condenser put in last summer and the aircon has worked fine since then. Hot weather last week, aircon worked for a few days, then suddenly not working any more. The ac magnetic clutch is kicking in, the fuses all seem ok, I removed the low and high pressure caps and there seems to be a bit of freon fizzing on the valve after I removed the caps so I assume pressure is ok (don't have gauges -maybe Ill buy on ebay). Is there a low pressure switch that I can bypass to see if that makes it work?? or something else I can do? I assume if the clutch is kicking in and there is no squealing, that the compressor is probably ok?
View 6 Replies
What could be involved? I heard something about crank sensor or a TBA taking part on this.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2001 Acura MDX automatic transmission that at least once a day when driving around town, will suddenly loose power, RPM's seem to be stuck at 2000, and then surge up to 5000 with no forward motion. When I try to accelerate again, the car "stumbles" forward until the RPM's settle back down to between 1-3 and the car drives normal. This is creeping me out...any thoughts? Valves have been adjusted.
View 10 Replies
My remote controls just stop working. 2006 Chevrolet Impala LTZ .
View 10 Replies
I have a 2001 Mazda 626. It has stopped unexpectedly while moving 2 times in the past 3 1/2 months. When it stopped (both times) it was mid-day, the a/c was on and I was moving at a low speed (between 5-15 mpg). When this happens, the gear shift locks up and the car won't move. Then after about 15-20 minutes it starts right up!
The car has been checked by my regular mechanic both times, who is terrific, and although he ran a diagnostic both times, found no electrical problem. He's convinced it's some kind of simple mechanical issue but hasn't be en able to diagnose what and isn't inclined to just start replacing any/all possible parts without a definitive reason.
The second time the car did this the Mazda dealership also did a full diagnostic and only reported "repairing" a couple of the battery wires, did not replace anything.
No one knows what's wrong but if the problem isn't resolved soon I will have to get another vehicle because I no longer feel safe in the car.
View 3 Replies
I have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
View 5 Replies
I drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I'm able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I've taken it in to get it diagnosed at two different mechanics so far but they've been unable to replicate the situation and couldn't do anything. The problem is occurring more and more frequently (as much as 4 times for a 10 minute drive last night) and I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. Anything similar seen before? (spark plugs, alternator, blocked air filter, etc?).
View 15 Replies
This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
View 12 Replies
I've got a 2004 Honda Civic with the 1.7L engine. I drive for about five miles and the engine stops suddenly but only for a half-second then runs again like normal. At the same time, there is a click - click behind my glove box. Relays I'm almost sure. And the way it happens is :click > engine stopsclick > engine continues running normally. Used to happen only on hot days, now it does when it's cool out once the engine is warmed up.
After it does this over and over about 6 times the Check Engine Light comes on and it doesn't jerk so hard, but stumbles kinda mildly, but all the time - though usually by this time I have gotten off the road and am swearing loudly.The Honda mechanics are running the clock RIGHT NOW and it may cost me a fortune - Also, there is no error code showing. Nothing. And I also replaced some relays, to no avail, because I read about cracked solder problems someplace...
View 6 Replies
Four days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
View 8 Replies
I was looking at a 2000 Acura TL, and although I haven't driven it yet, when I searched for "2000 Acura TL problems", it brought up plenty of references to the transmission issues that they had.
From my quick read, there seems to be a couple of different things that the dealers did when servicing the transmissions under the recall or extended warranty. Many of the posts seem to disagree on what determined whether the serviced transmissions would last or not, or would have to go back in for additional repair/replacement.
That would be a nice car, but I am not willing to deal with transmission issues if they are more likely than your average car.
View 2 Replies
My speedometer stopped working yesterday. I would like to find out what might have caused that to happen and what I'd need to do to get it fixed.
View 6 Replies
Car radio and cd not working on my acura after the mechanic disconnected and reconnected my battery.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Acura TL which has been in pretty good shape up until recently.
The left headlight started working on and off spontaneously. I also have noticed that the rear power door locks have been very "sluggish." Meaning they sound like they are just not powerful enough to unlock the door and often take about 5 or more cycles of lock/unlock to finally work.
I took it to the Acura dealer to take a look at the headlight, and they ran the diagnostic kit and said it looked like I had a faulty headlight electrical setup. They said the bulb, igniter, and ballast, and even the car battery were bad and needed to be replaced.
My question is did the faulty battery cause this? And could my USB cigarette lighter adapter for my phone charger cause a drain on my battery to wear it down? The charger doesn't seem to use any electricity unless the phone is plugged in and the car running (a light comes on). Or anything else you can think of?
The lesson I've learned for my next car is to get one with normal headlights and normal size rims. (the 17" tires are annoyingly expensive!)
View 5 Replies
