My 2003 Acura TL has trouble starting if I am running errands and the car is turned off and then I turn it back on. This only occurs when the air temp is 50 degrees. I have had the local Acura dealer evaluate it without a confirmed diagnosis.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Oldsmobile Alero's gas pedal sticks when its 70 degrees or higher outside. I can drive it all winter long without it sticking, then when the weather gets warm it starts again. I have to pull the pedal back up with my foot and it unsticks. I have replaced the throttle cable with one from a junk yard, but it does the same thing.
View 4 RepliesJust purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
When I start my car from a cold start - mostly in the AM, the car hesitates to start - but always starts. But the check engine light comes on along with the Vehicle Stability Assist indicator light and the VSA Activation Indicator lights come on. If I let the car warm up and then shut it off and restart, all lights go off except the check engine light. After two or three stops and starts (shut off and restart) the check engine light goes off.
I took it too the dealer and they said the computer indicated the cooling system had a malfunction. They did a pressure test on the system which indicated a leak. However, they could not find any coolant leaking from the radiator or belts. They only conclusion they could come to is that the head gasket "might" be cracked. The oil has not indication that the coolant is leaking into the oil.
There is no smoke coming from the tail pipes. So they said they think the exhaust is leaking into the radiator and forcing the coolant into the coolant reservoir thus leading to the engine to "overheat". BUT the engine is not overheating. if it is a cracked head gasket, will additives to the radiator such as Steelseal or blue devil really work?
2003 Acura TLS V6 engine....
Actually 50/50 at 10 degrees and 100% below 0. Dash lights come on when I turn the key, but no cranking from starter. Not even a click. Sun shines on it for a while and it starts with no problem. Ground strap? Starter relay? Starter solenoid?
View 14 Replies1994 Ford E150 5.0L. Will not start when the weather is above 70 Degrees F. No fire from coil...
View 19 RepliesMy Ion won't start under -15 degrees C but when things warm up turn the key and it roars, dealer says when it won't go call us. What to do? Battery cell freezing or something else I should know about?
View 30 RepliesXc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
My F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 RepliesI have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
View 5 RepliesWhat EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
View 8 Replies'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
View 6 RepliesI have long been having troubles with white smoke at startup, even when its 90 degrees out. Long story short I've got new glowplugs, GPR, UVCHs, valve cover gaskets, injectors, turbo, valve seals, valve springs, and HPOP all within the last year. Most of those parts were needed, some maybe not so much. After installing injectors things started getting worse, whether they're related or not I'm not sure yet. I pulled passenger side valve cover off again in an attempt to figure something out and heard this coming out of the intake spider.
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The strange thing is it goes away when it warms up. I should also note the reason I started with the passenger side is because I did a compression test and this side had the lowest readings, with #5 being 270 psi. I disconnected each injector one at a time on the passenger side to see if it made a difference while running but didn't really notice a difference. Am I looking at a motor rebuild, or at the very least a head removal?
I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
I've got 2003f150 4x4 and had a fender bender front end out of line so had it lined up but steering wheel 180 degrees out..well watched a video about just adjusting drag link..so i crawled under ready to adjust but cant find an adjustment collar. Mine the only one without it?
View 10 RepliesOnce a week or so my car doesn't start right away after I have driven some where, such as to get coffee, the library, or shirts from the cleaners, It makes noise as if it will start, but then gives up. If I sit and wait patiently -- doing nothing for 15 to 20 minutes or so, it will start. The mechanics have checked it over several times, but can't figure out what's wrong. They suggested putting in a new engine relay a week and half ago. Since then, the problem has happened twice.
View 1 RepliesMy daughters boyfriend has a 97 Acura CL, 4 cylinder. He stopped by yesterday and now his car won't start. None of the accessories work, it will not shift out of park, the battery is fine, the headlights etc work fine. We checked the fuses and fusible links, replaced the ignition and cylinder, but the car still won't start. I am not sure what to try next, I did use the key to put the car into neutral but it didn't work. I need to get this kid out of my house, he lives 30 miles away!
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